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Reminds me of a recent visit from our local plumber. I had attempted to unblock the bath drain with caustic soda, which was a complete failure. As a result I now had a solid lump of caustic soda, old hair and calcium in the U-bend. The plumber, who I know quite well arrived with a plumbers grade fix for the problem in the form of sulphuric acid. We poured in a tiny amount and there was an interesting explosion. Rather than do the obvious and desist from continuing this potentially disastrous line of repair, we agreed the best course of action would be to remove the entire blocked U bend and continue the experiment outside in the adjacent barn. Safely away from more sensible adults, in said barn, more acid was added, and a fountain of interesting highly caustic brown goop ejected itself violently from the poor unfortunate plumbing piece. Naturally we tried again with similar results and much amusement from two individuals who should know better. In the end we just replaced the U bend, as for some strange reason it had cracked. Do not try this at home children.

Time to revive this topic. Precise system conversion is important! Imagine the difference 2 tenths of a mm could make in a brush!

Timex got into the "electric wars" by purchasing Laco of West Germany. So the watch is really a Laco design and why it is much more like a traditional footed dial and not the tabs Timex is know for.

there are two dial feet held in place by screws.

Hello Clock and Watchmakers, I am going to quote from a book: "Aaron Lufkin Dennison An Industrial Pioneer and his Legacy" by Philip T. Priestley: (okay too lazy to type) Question: Has anyone seen a Timex in a Dennisons case? I want one. ?

It doesn't have a click because the barrel arbor is held captive by a brass bar held with a screw, there will be pre tension on the spring to release it the screw is removed to free the bar whilst holding the arbour end with a let down tool or small spanner. The same arrangement was used on later Williamson fusee clocks.

I didn't bid I put it in my watch list and totally forgot to bid £50 is a good price it should be a good performer when serviced.

I had a credit with a shop form when I bought some braking grease for some binoculars that I was restoring. Somehow I ended up with 2 on the order. When I paid for it I realised the mistake.. They would not refund me the money for the second tube, just gave me a store credit. Just got a Pin Vise from them today. Made in India, not China. Go figure. Anyway, the revolving end, much like those cheap 'precision' screwdrivers that you can buy, is actually on a bearing. The knurling on it is really good. The collets, there are two double ended ones, are quite good as well. I am really quite surprised to tell the truth.

The other thing he may be remembering is it probably wasn't all by itself it might've been in a box. So more I've seen a box of them. It's like all the other weird specialty tools lurking in a watchmakers bench absolutely must have for one particular watch. Then later generations ponder what's this for?

so here it is, the Omega Tool 107... The crystal has a groove the tool grabs under, then it compresses the crystal and pulls it out of the case. Here you can see the monocoque / one piece case design: I was happy to see that the movement is absolutely flawless. The case already looked quite good, but the movement really is the icing on the cake.

Hi Jdg123, I sent your soundsample through my timing machine. Unfiltered, it is very low and shows huge noise, exactly hum: With filter on, evaluation is sufficient: Frank

Hi JohnR725 has clearly explained the basic steps needed to be taken and the various checks to be made at each step and until you reach the point where the train is free and the pallet/fork snaps cleanly between the banking pins there is no point playing with the balance. Once all those points are addressed and proven then look at the balance. We need pictures of, 1. the old balance and pivots + spring. 2. the new balance , the same points . required to determine the state of the pivots and spring. Follow JohnR725's advice to the letter. If this is your first watch repair then for you interest I have attached a couple of documents as a guide. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

You need to bend the brass tab circled in red back up into place to hold the stem. You must have pressed too hard when removing or it was a already deformed. In the hand setting position the brass tab stops the watch when it contacts another brass strip that goes to the circuit board and stops the stem from pulling out. You may have to remove dial to do this operation. Love these jump minute watches!

Welcome to the forum Martin. You will need to reset the keyless works, assuming nothing is broken. There are others here well versed in the Timex world. I'm sure they'll be around shortly.

when it comes to "horse play" in the machine shop; I am a veteran ! think "oxy acetelene" and spark plugs. vin

Here's an entire catalog filled with absolutely essential goodies. I tried to order the 18 Volt Cordless Hammer, but their customer service is crap... http://www.meyette.us/hf_tool_sale.pdf :-) Gryf