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A true optimist is the guy who falls off a skyscraper and after 50 floors thinks to himself – well, so far so good!

Masala chai originates from India. You can try getting it from South Asian grocers. You can sometimes get a ground spice blend which you can add to and Indian teas. Or if you are willing to experiment, it's usually a blend of cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. Sometimes ginger and black pepper corns are added too.

Hi there , sanding down the lume would make marks that may not be visible to the naked eye but would be clearly visible under magnification .Why not strive for perfection and redo the lume,after all this is what watchmaking is all about and practice makes perfect ,then you will learn the properties of applying lume.Not only that but you risk damaging other parts of the dial .If at first you don't succeed, then try again as the saying goes.Take your time and strive for perfection.After all your are doing a restoration . hope this helps ,Graziano Oh and I forgot to mention sanding the lume will remove the fine natural film on the surface leaving rough surface allowing mould and other types of defects to occur more quickly

Not to split hairs but I don't think there is any advantage in using engine oil on machinery. No damage will occur but is not made for that. Without going to lengths, engine oil must work and maintain its properties under high temperatures, pressures, and exposition to contaminants, plus it must deliver a bunch of other features. Nothing or very little of that exists in a machine tool. And if it's of synthetic formulation its characteristics (mainly, extended service life) do not have a chance of being triggered. So you will find that machine oil, from a sewing machine to a plain bearings lathe to geared machines is different, and is graded differently to begin with, using ISO VG scale where 68 is equivalent to SAE 20 viscosity. Unfortunately it is not sold at the parts store or hardware store and it comes in large drums only. I wanted to get some for my lathe small gearbox but struggled to find any packaging under 3 liters. So I just got gear oil from the auto parts shop, all is good with it but is not what the manufacturer recommends. Interesting in their industrial opulence the US even has a magazine dedicated to this subject specifically https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/411/oil-viscosity

I took a look at the mechanism today, and naturally the coil was open circuit. This might have proved an insurmountable issue as I was unlikely to be able to source a new coil. Since a google search of "wtl-m2-50-230-600" produced nothing I figured it was worth stripping down the existing one and taking a look for the source of the problem. It turned out to be a dry solder joint, which was pretty simple to remedy. If you look closely you will see that the coil consists of three thin conductors (wires) rather than a single larger diameter conductor. This tends to make the coil more efficient, and is also a trick used at higher frequencies (in switch mode power supplies for example) as it counters the "skin effect", whereby current tends to be conducted mainly on the surface of the wire rather than deep in to the conductor. I would estimate this little shaded pole motor runs at around 66mA at 240V AC. As you can see from the pictures I didn't have the correct width of Kapton tape, so I grabbed the cutting mat, my wife's quilting ruler and her rotary cutter and made my own custom width Kapton tape. I also preserved the original part number by sealing it under another layer of the tape. In total there are three wraps, of the same length as the original one wrap, so there should be very little chance of tracking or arcing from those contacts or any damaged enamel insulation. The repaired coil has a relatively sane DC resistance of around 3.6K Ohms, so I figured it was unlikely to burst in to flames. I soldered on a suitable mains cable from the large box of assorted junk in the attic and plugged it in. No smoke, no flames, just a gentle purr as it came back to life. The mechanism has been cleaned and lubricated and it is now sitting on the floor next to me so I can keep an eye on it. So far it is keeping perfect time. I also added another coat of shellac, and it looks not bad If I do say so myself. A couple of quid well spent, and another member of the 404 club has been brought back from the scrap pile.

Hello and welcome to the forum. The Timex was another link in the evoloution of watch making and the fact they still survive today is testament to the engineering. revolutionary at the time. Not every one likes them but on this forum we respect others opinions which they are entitled to have.

Hello Michael , I deal with Labanda on a weekly basis , and I often pop in and see Geoff who is the owner . If you want to know any information on what he sells ,he is very helpful .Just give Labanda a call and ask to speak to Geoff ,very nice fellow trust me. Hope this helps Graziano

Hi VWatchie you have 3 blades to chose from, you place the blade into the snap back slot provided and push the main body into the Watch and pop goes the weasel, I mean caseback. You can also adjust the strength of the pressure applied by turning the top of body clockwise or anti clockwise. I have mine on the weakest setting as they have a lot of power on the strongest setting and I have damaged a case. But they are very good at what they are deigned for. They have a strong spring inside the main body and when pressed against the surface it goes to a certain point then bingo. Hope this helps https://youtu.be/viVpyuEo0dM Graziano

Update... What a marvelous little tool. I was shocked by the "Shock Tool." The very first attempt literally blasted the caseback off and across my bench. I had been soaking the watch in an 1/8" pool of CLP while waiting for the arrival of the $120 or so tool from Cousins. As you can see, there is a layer of it on everything in the case. Sucker was rusted tight. It'll never be a waterproof watch again, but there is no damage beyond where the case and its back met. Happy camper. I can certainly recommend it to you, jdm. Cheers.

While newer movements are marked under the balance, older ones are marked under the dial or not at all. The method I use for unknown or unmarked movements is by their finger prints, or the shape of the set lever bridge, set lever and detent. These can be matched to a specific maker and model number. If that fails, then likely it was made before parts were standardized. I'm certain this is not an American make.

Speaking of tea, this must be the Patek of tea's Da-Hong Pao Tea At $1.2 million per kilogram, Da-Hong Pao Tea is the most expensive in the world. This variety has been declared a national treasure by the Chinese government and dates back to the Ming Dynasty. The process used during harvesting remains a closely guarded secret.Have YOU had some? Whoa!

Well the Dumbarton Westclox arrived recently, and spent a couple of days in Covid quarantine, so today I had a quick crack at addressing its more obvious cosmetic issues. The bezel, it turns out, was, at some stage in the dim and distant past, polished brass. The ebay pictures had me thinking it was probably nickel plated, but that was just the result of many many years of neglect. I didn't even check the coil, I'll take a look at that, and servicing the mechanism next. The process for removing the bezel and glass in order to remove the filth on the inside, was less than obvious. It is held in by three small self tapping screws, screwed into the wood at the front. The screws are screwed down so that the lip of the bezel fits under them, and a small cut-out in that lip allows the bezel to be fitted, then rotated to secure it. I cleaned up and re-finished the shellac on the front and the edges. It probably could do with maybe two more coats and cutting with 000 wire wool between coats, but it looks way better than it did when it arrived. Lets hope I can actually get it to tick. If the coil is good, then I see no reason why not. I'll keep you all posted if I make any progress. EDIT: The mechanism is stamped 1 62 so most likely produced in January 1962 which makes it 59 years old.

Agreed as to the company and surroundings. Ive been to Kenya a few times for work and they drink "mixed tea" which is apparently made with 50/50 water/milk. It is at least twice as strong as "regular" black tea if brewed with just water. Aderdare was a popular brand. The milk was local whole milk, grass-fed and very sweet naturally. Usually added a bit of turbinado sugar. I make it at home like that every once in awhile and it is close, but not the same as having it made for you in Kenya.

You have let the cat out of the bag? You can tell him what I used to with them if you like. ?

Equally as important to occasionally cleaning it is to remember to put oil in the bearings. It's amazing how many people don't realize that and run the lathe with the bearings dry which is definitely not what you want to do. 's amazing if there lubricated the last almost forever. Conceivably they will last forever we just don't have enough time to verify that in our lives.

Hi There are many things that can stop a watch even a quartz one, congealed oil, dirty oil, dirt, coil u/s circuit block u/s. you need to verify that the watch is pulsing and the coil is good, but to do this you need tools. and as the replacement movement cost is around the £15 mark from cousins uk watch parts, It is probably cheaper and quicker to change the movement complete. attached id the tech sheet for the VD53a and B 3546_Seiko VD53A, VD53B (3).pdf

On behalf of anyone else with a third world internet connection, if you post it to YouTube, then share a link, those of us without bandwidth can view it as well (it's also really easy to post videos that way).

Glad to be of assistance. The original watch was given to me by a friend who bought it new, so dial/bezel are indeed original, as is the rest apart from the new parts described.

The larger brass rings at either end are friction fitted and pop off. These are the covers for the oiling point, you should oil it every use. At the drawbar end is the knurled nut you mention, remove that (it's a "spring" fit so normal to feel tight- but some might have a set screw- check). There's a set screw in the pulley, remove that. This is a plain bearing machine, no ball bearings . You need to push the spindle out, usually you will need to tap it with a brass drift. When it's all apart you'll have the spindle, the rear male bearing that fits on the spindle, and the pulley. When going back together pay extra attention to fitting the rear male bearing, it has a little key that lines up with a slot in the spindle.

Funnily enough, that's the video I made. It should be pretty much like it is in the vid

Hi there jdrichard, thank you, I would use some uhu 2 pack glue and mix it up with some lume of your choice, make sure you mix a good portion of the lume in the glue as much as you can get in the mixture and use an oiler to place it in that pip holder. You can dome it or fill it flat. Make sure you don't touch it with anything for a couple of days. It will dry looking like a lumed glass pip. It will stay there as it will be glue and lumed at the same time. I think it would look cool with bgw9 to add a bit of colour in the dark. The choice is yours my friend Regards Graziano

True Noirrac1J, Also we have to acknowledge that Oris, which was one of the main proponents of the pin-lever (some even chronometer grade!), was one of the main forces behind the resurgence of the mechanical watch in the late 80s. Also without Sicura (another pin-lever brand), we may not have Breitling with us now. Anilv

Wether watch repair is your hobby, or you wish to train as a watch repairer, you will need to buy some tools at some stage. These are the 10 most useful tools you will need in your kit.There is the right tool for every job in all trades and this is especially true for watch repairing. No matter how many tools you have, there always seems to be something needed. I know many watch repairers, some with many, many years behind their belts, who truly enjoy sifting through a catalog of tools in order to see what would make their lives easier. Indeed, I have almost 25 years in the trade, and I have so many tools. But occasionally I enjoy the purchase of that new tool which will make my life easier. And there is no better feeling than buying the best quality and knowing that you are using the best. That being said, there are several tools which are very important to have on day one of your watch repairing career. And even if you are an enthusiast and watch repairing is your hobby, you should consider these 10 tools at a minimum to be in your tool box. 1. TWEEZERS OK, so tweezers are of paramount importance. A good, well maintained pair of tweezers are needed. But you really should consider having several sizes for different jobs. · Size 2 This will be for picking up heavier pieces. These are useful for handling train bridges and base plates. And as general use when working on pocket watches. · Size 3 These are finer than size two and are useful for general purpose when working on wrist watches. · Size 5 This size will have extremely fine tips and are most useful when working on watch escapements and manipulating hairsprings. · Size AM.BR These are quite heavy tweezers made of brass. These are useful when working on high grade watches where you do not wish to risk scratching any of the watch plate surfaces. Other sizes are available but you really should consider the above at a minimum. There are many choices even after you have chosen which sizes to purchase. You can get carbon steel, stainless steel and anti-magnetic. There are also brands such as Bergeon, Horotec and Dumont. Many professional watch repairers tend to use Dumont as they have a fantastic range to choose from. In particular I can recommend the Dumostar range. These are anti-magnetic but also quite hard wearing. If you bend or damage the tips on your screwdrivers then you can re-shape them using a sharpening stone. If they get too worn then they are still useful for rough work like lifting spring bars when fitting straps etc. 2. SCREWDRIVERS A decent set of screwdrivers is, naturally, a must. There are many manufacturers and qualities to choose from, but it is not recommended to use the cheap variety sold on eBay or at your local market as these will usually have very soft tips and could likely slip and cause damage to the watch you are working on. Popular brands include A&F, Bergeon and Horotec. A&F manufacture a great set of screwdrivers for a reasonable price, and these are an excellent choice for getting started. Many watch repairers may debate over which is best between Bergeon and Horotec. I prefer Bergeon with the ergonomic heads. Other watch repairers I know swear by the Horotec's. Everybody I know seem to agree that the Bergeon fully ergonomic screwdrivers are terrible (the ones with the rubber shaft). 3. HAND LIFTING TOOLS Essential for removing the hands from a watch. There are two kinds · Standard hand lifters These come in pairs and are metal rods with a tapered flat edge at the tips which is curved into a blade and will have a 'v' cut in the blade centre. These come in several sizes which would be useful for small watches up to small clocks. · Presto hand lifters This is a single tool which has a spring loaded lifting mechanism. It is useful to have both kinds. My preference is the standard hand lifters. 4. CASE OPENING TOOLS A case knife is essential for opening a watch case with a snap-on back. It is advisable to keep the blade both sharp and well maintained to reduce the risk of damage to yourself or the watch case. A Jaxa tool is used for opening a watch case with a screw on back. It will come with several tips for different types of watch back. There are a couple of sizes, a standard size and a large size. You can buy the original Jaxa or a cheaper replica. You should use the opener with the watch case mounted in a case vice (preferably further secured in a bench vice). 5. CASE VICE When opening a screw-down watch back, you should consider using a case vice which will help to minimise damage to the case and potential injury to your hand. It is even better to secure the case vice in a bench vice. 6. BLOWER When working on your watch, you should NEVER blow on the movement or any parts with your mouth. This will likely cause corrosion. You should use an air blower instead. There are a couple of types - a bellows style and a pump style. The bellows style is a bit more aggressive and the pump style is more gentle. 7. MOVEMENT HOLDERS When the watch is out of the case, you will want to minimise touching the watch with your fingers. You will also not want to put pressure on the watch when undoing screws and you could break parts. So using movement holders is very advisable. There are regular universal movement holders in various sizes and shapes. and you will find movement holders for specific movement calibres like the Valjoux 7750 or ETA 2892-A2 for example. 8. EYE GLASSES (LOUPES) You should invest in eye glasses with quality optics. An eye glass is usually worn in your eye like a monocle. You will find these manufactured by A&F, Bergeon and Horotec. At a minimum you should have a low magnification (x4) and a high magnification (x10) for close inspection work. This is very important when fault finding. You can get a clip for your spectacles and there is also a head band available for people who cannot get used to wearing an eye glass which can be quite tricky at first. 9. OIL POTS Oil pots are inexpensive and a must in order to aid you in getting the correct amount of oil on your oilers. There are cheap and very expensive oil pots and to be fair it does not really matter which ones you opt for as long as they serve the purpose of keeping dust off your precious oil. 10. OILERS These are fine, specially shaped needles with handles. They are used for transferring small amounts of lubricant from your oil pot to the desired location. ​And so this, by no means, is an exhaustive list of all the tools you need to repair watches. In fact, these are the most basic of requirements. I have not mentioned pliers, pin vices, broaches, reamers, files, cutters and measuring equipment. But I will follow up this article with a further list of tools you will need as you expand your tool kit.