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  1. A nice Citizen from the 80`th
    2 points
  2. All right and correct, is always good practice to examine all aspects, but here we are talking of a automatic mov.t with a 42 hours power reserve, that has a perfectly fine amplitude, but just one half of the power reserve, after manual winding I suppose. Which is too little to suggest that the mainspring is unable to deliver its force, which after 20 hours should still be a good 90% of the full potential. That immediate indication instead is that the mainspring wasn't fully wound in first place, as it is of the automatic type which during winding slips in barrel at some point. That
    2 points
  3. Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order) Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order) Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the
    1 point
  4. You are correct of course, missed the fact it's not a vintage Seiko The last one I worked on was a 1970's Seiko (and quite exotic - 5126A) which had a lift angle (as far as I could tell) of 56 and from what I read that's not rare (although, as mentioned, they usually have poor amplitude to begin with. Ended on 240 if I recall correctly). Changed the amplitude reading quite dramatically.
    1 point
  5. To get the hairspring in , you don't bend the pin, but rotate the boot. Boot has a slot for screwdriver blade.
    1 point
  6. Please read again my previous answer. The points that fully answer your question are in boldface.
    1 point
  7. What you circled is called regulator (index), it doesn't hold or guide the hairsping but just regulate the rate by changing its effective length. This regulator has one curb pin which faces another part called boot, which can be rotated to ease the hairsping in or out. Incidentally, the pin that actually keeps the hairspring attached to the balance cock is still there, wedged between the end stud and the hairspring. The last observation is that unless you know for sure that the part can take it, never try to bend or otherwise force watch parts. A breakage is the usual result.
    1 point
  8. You wouldn't. It's about barrel sizes. The ETA set is sized (and I'm sure labeled) according to common ETA movements. Generic sets are sized by unit measurements (mm). If you do a lot of ETA stuff, it's probably nice to have, and you can always use the nearest size for whatever non-ETA movement. The generic set would be easier to use since the intervals will be more regular, and there's nothing special about ETA barrels that will keep them from working with the ETA movements in the same way there's nothing that would keep the ETA sized set from working with non-ETA movements. A word on th
    1 point
  9. @nickelsilver Thank you very much for your fast reply and the correct advice. I've managed to safely remove the movement from its case. Thank you very much!
    1 point
  10. Feel free to do that anytime. And I shall add some stuff to my offering.
    1 point
  11. Strange that you dind't find the previous discussions on this subject, or to the 7S26 parts reference sheet that I maintain, it has that compatibility information and more. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml Maybe you are referring to older or more exotic mov.ts? Because Seikos has 53 deg, pretty much the same as any ETA, for example. Also, as often mentioned, having a "wrong" lift angle in the machine only influences the amplitude reading very little, as in 2 degs per one
    1 point
  12. One of the problems with getting mainsprings now is there's a limited number of sources that actually make mainsprings. I've noticed sometimes with American pocket watch mainsprings Coming in a envelope with a company name. But when I look at the actual mainspring package I recognize the number is a GR number. So it's conceivable that generic mainsprings if their new could be what you're searching for perhaps. Seiko with their all their watches almost never gives you specifications except. The only place any references to amplitude is ever been found at least in the older tech sheets i
    1 point
  13. I've had this several times at work somebody asks me to time a Seiko. I asked if they wound it up they assured me they wound it up and it looks pathetic on the timing machine? so I ask how they wound it up or specifically how many times they turn the crown and that's the problem. I've snipped out something from the service manual. When winding with the crown a minimum of of 55 turns. Then winding the ratchet wheel screw eight turns. Then there's another problem with the barrel wall breaking grease. If somehow it is wrong for a variety of reasons when the spring slips it will slip too mu
    1 point
  14. Seiko watches usually have a higher lift angle than swiss watches. Make sure to check the correct lift angle prior to checking the amplitude.
    1 point
  15. You are welcome. BTW in many occasions in my life I missed noticing something that later on turned to be obvious. And nobody is expected to know or use proper terminology all the time. Getting to a positive result while enjoying what we do is all we try to facilitate here.
    1 point
  16. Most but not all SKX crowns an stems are a one piece unit. I think it was the very first ones that had a 2 piece crown and stem. If it has visible threads it can be removed. If the shaft is smooth all the way to the crown it is a one piece unit. In the early days of modding these with NH36/4R36 movements, the stem and crown was a big stumbling block. The OEM parts solution was to use a SARB059 crown-stem. Seiko stopped selling them several years ago. The after market has stepped up and you can get a triple gasket crown with a stem that will work in both the 7S26 and 4R36. Not ver
    1 point
  17. at this point iam leaving it as is, i feel like if i service. it it wont run as good
    1 point
  18. Here ya go: https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-4266-watch-crystal-remover-tool-crystal-lift-10-mm-to-45-mm/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d0L72WLY7U
    1 point
  19. Second that. Go easy on the Rodico, especially on gilt numbers and delicate printing. Often better to leave well enough alone.
    1 point
  20. Found this: https://www.thewatchsite.com/threads/movement-interchanability.163186/ The general consensus is that they are exactly the same apart from the rear plate that can be easily swapped if desired.
    1 point
  21. It's Sulfuric Acid. Vissin major distributor is Bergeon. It's toxic as all heck. More so when heated. I just found the MSDS (safety data sheet) So no, Vissin is not the same as Alum, which seems ALOT less dangerous than Vissin and is available in any stores spice and ingredients section. 507754.pdf
    1 point
  22. I haven't tried it on watch parts (yet, a worthy 404 victim is en route now from Pakistan), but the above is similar to what I intend to use: Evaporust. Red rust (ferrous oxide) is physically larger than the black rust that results from the use of said concoctions. Ferrous oxide is Fe2O3 with the iron in a +3 oxidation state, while ferric oxide is FeO with the iron in a +2 oxidation state (disclaimer, I had to look that up to get it right). The ferrous oxide (red rust) is physically larger than the pure iron it replaces, and as it expands it exposes more iron below it, allowing further oxidati
    1 point
  23. I've given up on the idea of a comprehensive, affordable set of mainspring winders. A new spring is cheap and goes in so easily! By no means am I an expert with hairsprings, but repairing them is a question of the right tools and lots of practice. If you are tangling them, then you are handling the balance wrong. Watch how Mark and other professionals so it, and practise using the same techniques. Hot Tip! If a fly lands on your finger when you are working, remove the tip of your tweezers from the hairspring before swatting it with your free hand.
    1 point
  24. Hello! I want to share with you the following: The test board plan of Stefan's design with a FET at the entrance: The test board plan for JohnR's design (only the second stage amp filtering is different, the FET at the entrance and the first amp are the same): The schema for JohnR's design: Please pardon the hand-writing effect, but I don't have the time to put them in specialized editor, but maybe they help somebody. I implemented both amps on the same test board with switches. Stefan's design is filtered at 400Hz high-pass and JohnR's at 4kHz. I find the later more
    1 point
  25. So install the software on a netbook which has a minor problem of the screen is too small and toolbar on the bottom covers up the very bottom of the screen. I think there’s a way of making the toolbar disappear I just haven’t had time to look into that. So left everything on default other than changing the lift angle for the particular watch I was timing. So outstanding that the software is out to play with. Then there have been other Windows-based timing machines in the past none of which worked very well so I made this amplifier to play with the other software. So this is a dual op amp d
    1 point
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