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Kienzle, No jewels.

Out of curiosity where in the world you live? I have a link below the Seiko watch as you call it is Seiko but it's their OEM division. That means basically all kinds of material houses can sell the movement. It also means the cost of the movement is cheap enough that you typically It may be cheaper just to replace the movement than try to service it or even find parts. Watches really do not do well when dropped. They are shock protected but there's a limit of how far that can go. Usually what happens is the regulating components can move around. The other thing that can happen but typically this would speed up the watch is they hairspring will jump out of the regulator pins and things kinda get bunched together whether or not supposed to be. If you're not worried about the warranty any competent watchmaker should be able to take the back off and tell you what's wrong with the watch. Depending upon how the watch hit like the side of the case on the hard marble it's possible to break the rotor mechanism. This is back to the only way an assessment can be done is somebody needs to take the back off and look at the watch. It's possible that you've relocated the regulator arms and damaged the automatic weight. Which we really can't tell by guessing what the sound sounds like. https://www.timemodule.com/en/product-and-download.php?list=1

Dugena, the Deutsche Uhrmacher Genossenschaft Alpina, was a purchasing cooperative of German watchmakers and watch retailers, founded in 1917. From 1949 on the brand name Dugena was printed on watch dials. The one you have is a Dugena 1021 same as the helvitia 837. although It doesn't help any as I have not forund anthing on the Dugena 1021 yet. You may be able to find it on the bestfit books, They are available from Wn S McCaw's web site for about $9 on a CD.

Hi all I thought this was interesting. So I share, but not my popcorn.

Thank you, Graziano!

You know, I always thought you were pulling my chain about the "pepsi challenge, coke etc until curiosity got me. It does work lol ?

No, that's for plastic crystals. Try a minuscule amount of household silverware cleaner, or the like.

Hi Drink the Jameson's while waiting for the rust to dissolve?

After years of frustration repairing quartz movements, I finally came up with a design for a movement holder that works. My biggest problem when putting back a quartz movement was the rotor and stator just wouldn't stay in position. The slightest vibration would displace the 2 of them and they would end up stuck together. I've tried the sticking a screw or magnet to the bottom plate trick with varying success. But nothing beats this magnetic movement holder. I made it this morning out of an ice cream stick and a piece cut from a whiteboard magnet. It worked so well that I managed to put 2 quartz movements back together with no hiccups! Try it and tell me what you think.

Today, something a little different as a lunchtime project. Not a watch, but somewhat similar in that is has hands and a hairspring. This is the mechanism from a Taylor "Stormguide" banjo style aneroid barometer and thermometer. Needless to say, owing to its condition when I purchased it, it also qualifies for the 404 club. I have a couple of other barometers, one of which I've had for many years, which I fixed up as a kid, and another that we got as a wedding anniversary gift. This one has obviously been dropped. The shaft for the hand was bent, and the hand was damaged, with the collar missing. Straightening the shaft was a delicate operation, as I was sure it would snap, but with a little care it is now unbent. With that taken care of, I fabricated a new collar from the straw from an air duster can, and glued it in place on the hand with a spot of GS cement. Next the dial was re-fitted with some double sided tape. This isn't a very expensive mechanism as you can see. The better ones use screws or clips to hold things in place. Finally I popped the hand back on, with another tiny drop of GS cement, and left things to set up with a cardboard shim to ensure the hand remained flat and parallel to the dial. The hand was set to match the reading from one of the other barometers, and now all that remained to do was check that it worked, pop the plexiglass back on, put it back in the "banjo" and hang it on the wall.

Often times people with microscopes can see the dust on the pine needles in the forest but can't see the trees. Then interesting on the timing machine you appear to have two separate lift angles? Then what happens if you rotate the microphone so the crown is facing down what is that look like On the timing machine?

Periodic eraticity if correspondes to the period of a gear in the train, either on its own teeth or pinion or both ,imperfect jewel or bent/damage arbour, damage may not be noticable under normal eye loupe magnification.

Ballance spring sound normally would have an "ing" to it. spring sounds like spring musical instruements. Usually the regulating arm moves by shocks of a drop. Possibly damaged rotor bearing, sounds like rotor is rubbing on parts underneath it. Do you have any plan to learn watch repair? Welcome to the forum.

Your experiment results will be most valuable to publish to us all. My little experiment sorta concluded about 30 min for most parts can be regarded as safe. which was nonsense, since we only see the visible damage and the surface only. Vinegar won once where coke failed to loosen a rusted screw. Results seem to vary drastically in ultrasonic 5 min of vinegar in ultrasonic is enough to damage gears. Coke in ultrasonic will also eat balance pivots. I hope your analysis of the results beats mine, I am not certain the experiment is a simple one. Regs joe.

I don't quite understand this. You can wind the mainspring but there is no power to the wheel train? If you remove the pallet fork and wind it, do the wheels spin freely?

For getting a new cover, I can say a prayer, cross my fingers, and direct you to auction sites like Ebay. For the movement, I have not repaired a watch that old yet, and it would be hard to diagnose accurately through forum posts. If you have the key, you could give it just a couple gentle winds and describe what it does. Lastly, would you suppose the inscription might actually read "Jas. McCabe" ("Jas." being short for James). Because he was pretty well known apparently. Here's a link to another of his watches: https://antiquewatchstore.com/archive/1113-jas-mccabe-royal-exchange-london-no-04779.html

Really? ? Aren't we "forcing" every screw while removing or installing it? Aren't we forcing a crystal into bezel? Just saying.. DO NOT FORCE ANY PART. perhaps force it a little? ?

Orient cal. 48320

1919 Burlington by Vortic Watch CO. USA

Here is another watch found in my dad's collection of abandoned watches. When I discovered it, I saw that it would run fine but lost tons of time. After dusting off my brain and recalling what my dad taught me and with a little help from the internet, I set about to tighten the canon pinion. Whoooo...very scary, but I seem to have been successful. It keeps great time. After polishing the crystal, it is a real beauty.

I'm wearing an Elgin recently overhauled that's been fitted with a new Real Leather Creations band.

Completed the watch today. Seiko Sportsmatic 411, 7005-8016P, lemon dial, eBay find, originally bought in 1971 in Singapore with original guarantee card, no web sales back then. Fully serviced and running very well. Very happy

Just got this after Christmas... Needs some love but it works.

So, please show the underside of the inner part once you remove it, also of the outer part and underside view of the groove. thats where you will leave punch marks.

You might be able to peen the underside in a couple places using a prick in the staking set. Set the bottom plate so there is not a hole under the top plate (or put some stout plastic there), and then peen just the flange on the underside. NOTE: don't use the pointed alignment tool for peening! It may require making a stake with a small enough taper to be sure it clears everything else- I don't know exactly what that underside looks like.

The canon pinion is a snap fit in its wheel, and will slip during setting. The intersecting area should be greased.

It appears that the Setting Lever spring is not doing anything and about to fall off. Check if it's damaged and if you correctly installed the Setting Lever (and everything in between ? ). I am referring to item 443 & 445 on the diagram, which was provided by 'watchweasol'.