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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/24/20 in all areas
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Hi all, Since it was impossible to find a how-to guide for servicing a tourbillon (in this case the seagull ST8000) on the internet, I decided to create one myself and share it on a couple of places on the internet. I hope you guys enjoy it and it will help you in the future. There are basically 2 types of tourbillons (other than multi-axles ones) 1. The brequet carroussel type (big balance wheel, turns 360 degrees around his own axle in 1 minute) 2. the blancpain flying type (the whole escapement and balance turn 360 degrees in circles like a planet in a minute) This is the blancpain version and is made by Seagull. I purchased this watch myself, both for the beautiful looks of an tourbillon and to do a service Conclusion: The tourbillon cage can be tricky as it requires balancing multiple loose parts before they can be screwed tight. Timegrapher cannot be used on tourbillons as the moving of the cage+balance will give readings going up and down at the same time, same goes for amplitude. Current timegrapher are just not made for tourbillon timing. It can only be timed in an old fashioned way, after 24h's checking. The ST8000 is very well made, be it Chinese. Finishing of gears and plates together with the thickness of materials makes it sturdy and built to last.
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I just wanted to share this amazing watch. The damaskeening is special, and it has only lost 10ish seconds over the past 8 days while in my pocket.
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The clock strikes Christmas 1975 and these two sister were each given a watch which they are, here on a picture, proudly showing off. Their last parent recently passed away and in the parents "jewellery-box" one of the thought long lost watches emerged again. Inside the back-lid was the name S.Kocher stamped, a Swiss company long gone, went begin 1980's during the "Quartz"-crisis under. The watch was in their line of the "Royce"-watches and had an undisturbed Swiss 21.600BHP, 17-jewels AS1726 cheased /non-running movement. I serviced the movement, which now runs with a 0.0ms beat-error and a 270 degrees amplitude (DU & DD), polished the acrylic-crystal and case. It gets presented back to the owner on Christmas 2020, exactly 45 years later, in a nearly as new condition ? I'm sure for her a happy X-mas with some old memories ? For me another fulfilling job done ? Happy X-mas !
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Handmade
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I decided to give the elegant little "Crown Watch" "Ancre 15 Rubis" an airing today. This has a strange arrangement of "almost fixed lugs", in the sense that they have pins that roll, but are so tightly fitted that there is no way to remove them, so it requires a strap suited to fixed lugs. I can't remember what the caliber is, but for those who want to know, here is a picture of its beating mechanical heart. I would suggest it is probably from the 1940s or 1950s judging by the styling, but that is simply a guess, so possibly from the Bombay "Crown Watch" company, or.. possibly not.
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I recently worked on a 1958 Marlin model 22 which at first looked very promising. All was looking great until about 5 minutes went by and it stopped. Typically when this happens to me after a service I find I over oiled a pivot or other such friction point. But, what I found was that the pivot hole on the top plate that the escape wheel fits into was elongated. Could it be corrected? Maybe after a few more years at the hobby I will take on the task. But to me it was more rewarding that I spotted the issue than trying to correct it.2 points
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I have been collecting and restoring these machines since 1970. david1 point
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After another sleepless night I spent with a TIMEX I thought i go for a quick win after 5 o clock in the morning. This is one of the watch which did cost me £2.10 on average (bought 5 watches for £10.5). Cleaned the case, polished the crystal and put a nato strap on. Bought a bag of them from cousinsuk when they were on sale for 20p + VAT. You cannot use them for everything, but in this case it does not look too bad.
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You should oil the third wheel jewels with 9010.1 point
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Easiest way is to start with a watch with a 6309 mechanical movement (6309-7290 diver possibly?) and replace it with a vintage 7546 quartz movement. Everything, hands, dial, day and date wheels, stem and crown will swap straight over, but first find your watch, then a donor 7546 dress watch as a donor........good luck....1 point
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Do you have enough end shake on fork arbour? if yes; I would keep nudging the fork to snap until it jams there ink mark the escape teeth and the pallet in contact with the teeth. If it kept jamming on the same tooth, that is where the fault is, most likely a defective tooth, perhaps dirty. One you have ink marked the tooth, you might put the oscilator-cock assembly back on, shake to run the oscilator at low wind, see where it stops. Good luck and happy Christmas.1 point
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What you are attempting to achieve will be difficult to say the least. Quartz movements come in many sizes and not just circumference but also in height. The hands that are on the mechanical watch will almost certainly not fit the quartz movement so hands will have to be sourced. Also the new watch stem will have to be adjusted in length and have the crown fitted. To make a custom dial printing on decal paper and transferring it is the way to go but this is also troublesome.1 point
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Just thought I would share this...... I was tearing down a Dubois Depraz chronograph module today and lost two very tiny spring parts along the way only to then find that one had actually pinged off and landed in the dish I was using to collect the parts and the other had stuck to my spare needle nosed pliers..... If it wasnt for these two big turns of luck this movement would be ruined....... Anyone else had such luck!??1 point
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Someone will probably notice the lighter fluid in my inventory pic. I jumped the gun and started cleaning before I had taken the pic. I pulled out the one part I had put in the benzene jar and snapped the pic. It helps me locate the correct screws for the parts as I keep the screws next to the part it came from.1 point
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As we used to say in the Nav after a job well done, "Bravo Zulu." Outstanding!1 point
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Might that bezel need to be removed first??1 point
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I lost my battle with M107 repair project. Luckily, there was one NOS available and I snapped it. It was working fine after i did a complete overhaul, but Auto-winding mechanism created some issues as it was worn and perhaps damaged. The new movement was not identical, but still M107 and worked fine with the old oscillating weight attached to it.1 point
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Great post! I also did several similar projects for other people who bought their watches (mostly Bulova) in 1970s. Always getting very positive and somewhat emotional feedback when people see their high school graduation gift watches, etc in working like new condition.1 point
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Alarm "clock"! ?
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Today's casual watch is a Elgin Automatic which I assume is from the 70's. I know very little about it. I won it in a Goodwill auction for around $38 and it showed up not only running but keeping impeccable time as well. It has an AS 1916 movement.
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Today I was an early bird and took some minutes to disassemble a bridge like yours. I let the pictures speak for them self since there is not that much to comment. One can like me be lazy and use a wrench as an vice, I also uce a circle to unscrew the nut part of the barrel arbour. Hope this helps you...
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