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Just took apart my very first ETA cal. 2824-2 (17 jewels), and I took a picture of every step. Mark Lovick “assisted me” with a sure hand as I went along (thank you!), so my pictures (more or less) replicate his disassembly procedure. The general idea is that I first take a picture of the part that I’m about to remove (pretty much centred in the picture), and the following picture shows the part along with any screws that held it in place. I’ve used an iPhone 6s with a macro lens to take the pictures and I’ve strived to obtain as much focus as I possibly can so that it will be easier to find the right screws during assembly. The pictures are stored on my OneDrive and should be sorted by name (default is photo date) in ascending order. I’ll post my assembly pictures in this thread once I’m done (waiting for a new mainspring, Moebius 8217, Moebius 8981, and Lubeta v105). Disassembly pictures here!

Your case is leaky. When you pressurised the tester with the watch inside, air was forced into the case, euqualising the pressure inside and outside the case. When you released the pressure in the tester the higer pressure in the case popped the crystal off. If you had released the air slowly with the watch submerged you would have seen a stream of bubbles which would have shown you where the leak was.

I hate to disagree, but after using TT for several years, not just this forum, I can say that the mobile version of this site - wether loaded in chrome or safari on iPad, iPhone and my wife’s galaxy S8 runs much much better than TT. There are some features that just do not work in TT aside from my gripes with images not being hosted but rather being uploaded to TT servers (not sure if that’s changed) and the horrible advertising I cannot manage the forum through TT - I can manage the whole forum via the mobile version loaded into chrome or safari. I am writing this in chrome on my iPhone, it’s easy to quote, select quote, and edit. There is nothing I can’t do and many more things I can perform that I cannot do in TT. Tapatalk has outlived its usefulness. If we lose some members then I’m sorry - but it’s not coming back - too many bugs and errors to deal with. invision has a competing app but I have decided on the KISS rule and I think that’s how we shall keep it from now on. I hope that’s ok.

if it's a blued steel spring the center part is usually soft you can usually close it when it's in the barrel. It's a modern white spring it shouldn't look like that at all if it does its defective. then modern white spring is as you found out attempting to close the center or anything usually results in breakage. If you put something in the center when it's out of the barrel you can gently squeeze it and slowly close it if you're careful. But anything resembling bending of light spring is usually ends in disaster

I would say its a timer of some sort. Looks like a 30 hour movement with extras, pin pallets and the normal type of balance you would expect to find in a 30 hour wind up. What I find funny is what it says on the dial jeweled movement. There aren't any.

Very often I found the front bushing damaged that accepts the pivot. Either by mounting a wrong (too long) stem or deliberately damaged to accept such wrong stem. Some damages and repair: Frank

I figured out what is wrong with the original movement in this watch. It's balance cock is warped. The portion of the cock that holds the end jewels is curved upwards slightly for some reason, which means that the angle between it and the balance wheel stem is not 90 degrees. Hence low amplitude. I discovered this after doing a complete service on the movement, including the end stones, which did nothing to improve the movement's performance. So I've ordered another 10 scrap movements from Etsy since none of the good balances I have are a match for this one. I'd prefer to put on one that is the same vintage as the warped one. I'll also look to see if I can fix this balance cock, but I'm not going to hold my breath. I may also be able to build more working movements from the 10 scraps I'll be getting.

You all did such a great job on the last yard sale find I'm posting this weeks find. I bought a Seiko sport and a Woman's polo club for $1 and they gave me the pocket watch for free because it was broken. Is it gold? I need a stem for it and the 937 in the photo. I tried to find tech sheets for them so I could find the parts number but no luck. Are they 2 piece stems? I also need a stem for a ladies Hamilton 605. Any help on parts numbers so I can find the 3 stems would be much appreciated.

Those LED bracelet watches are a neat design. This of course means that there are a lot of clones of the design, some much better than others. If anyone wants to look on ebay for something similar, try some of these key words. "JAPANESE IRON SAMURAI Faceless black/red Modern LED watch" Some examples are really cheap and flimsy looking, but there are a few much better quality versions. Its a bit of a novelty item though, and I suspect the batteries wont last terribly long. There seems to be a bit of a trend for LED watches at the moment, so maybe time to dig out that old 1970s TexasInstruments/Beta/Timex/Omega/HongKongSpecial and get it going. My advice though is to leave the bell bottomed trousers, flowery shirt, kipper tie and platform boots in the wardrobe. Some things are best forgotten. ?

Love this and thank you for the brilliant pictures. I am just about to service a Tag Heuer with this movement. Do you know where i can obtain a mainspring for the 2824-2? I have a feeling it has lost the spring in its step.:)

Assuming the bezel gasket is intact and not damaged line it all up on the press and re fit taking care that it is all straight and you are not crimping the gasket, go slowly with frequent checking.

Just got 13lbs of non working watches from ebay for USD$208. Over a hundred watches All quartz movements except 2 Timexes. 80% ladies watches. Some fitness trackers, a couple of clock movements, 1 Seiko, 1 Benrus, 2 Bulovas and 3 Fossils. The rest... bleah! So not sure if it's a win or lose deal. Anyway, I'm restoring them for Christmas presents for a couple of orphanages. I found an interesting one which I've never seen before. Not signed at all. No visible dial. LEDs just shine through the gaps in the bracelet links.

It is traditional that every hobby machinist makes his own toolposts. For the Unimat 3 / Sieg C0 that is even more needed because even just a Chinese dual slot one cost a stupid price. Here's my attempt from some rectangular aluminum, not the strongest material but the forces at play here are also limited. First I corrected parallelism with face turning, then drilled where the slot is, and then rigged the Taig milling slide. I used a NOS 8mm cutter which I got on Ebay from east Europe. The strange thing about it is the asymmetric blade, there must be a reason but I didn't research. Without the hole it wouldn't be practically possible to mill the slot. It's written in books also, the lathe doesn't like that. The most I could do was 0.5mm cuts or so. Marked, drilled, counterbored and threaded the screw holes. Good chance to practice more about drill bits, which ones do cut without a pilot hole and which ones don't. Ideally I should have done all that on the lathe as it gives better alignment. Some hand finishing and it's done. Isn't perfect nor beautiful, but will save a lot of aggravation.

Repair shops here re-wire watch coils and dirt cheap, either your old one is to be sent in or they might have one like it to re-wire, so if no luck finding a new one, PM me.

That is a front loader case, crystal comes out by air pressure then dial and module follow. When in doubt, stop and search, do not force anything, that will lesse chances of damage.

Re. The variable amplitude issue, check the amount of sideshake in the barrel arbor and make sure the barrel isn’t hitting the bridge or the main plate when wound. I had a similar problem with this movement and it turned out to be barrel arbor bushing wear.

I suggest Christian Dannemann in the UK -- watchguy.co.uk "I have been working as a professional watchmaker since January 2012, and I have been a member of The British Watch & Clock Makers’ Guild since April 2015. In May 2016, I was appointed as a director of the Guild." BTW, thanks for taking time out to help your friend.

Thanks, and I'm very glad to hear that my pictures will be of use to you. I've serviced two other ETA movements since, calibre 2472 and 2772 (which I'll publish a picture service walkthrough of eventually). It's clear that the 2824-2 is an evolution of both as they are very similar. However, the calendar works of the 2472 is the most sophisticated with its true instant date change. The calendar ring doesn't move one bit until it flips over.