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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/23/20 in all areas

  1. Just finished this 1970 Seiko 2517-0211 for my sister's 50th birthday in 6 days time. I am so relieved that I got it finished in time. Main issues I had with it apart from it being so tiny were the barrel and auto bridges. The pivot holes for the reversing wheels were worn badly oval on both. A donor movement fixed that luckily. Hope she likes it. VID_20200923_151815818.mp4 VID_20200923_151815818.mp4
    3 points
  2. Hello everyone, please let me introduce myself. I am Nick. I have had a keen interest in clocks and watches since I was a small child as one of my uncles used to repair both at his home and I would stand watching him for hours. I didn’t do anymore than that and grew to the ripe old age of 15 yrs and my first job was a toolmaker ... that was it my interest started to burn again. However my path took a different direction and at the age of 52 yrs I found myself pensioned out of my job with a non-stop shaking right hand and a diagnosis of Complicated PTSD, I am lucky enough to still be receiving treatment for it. As my head slowly started to see my world again the first thing to burn away at me was my desire foe old clocks. Cutting a very long story short, I was given a very old Longcase Clock to try and fix. I invested in some on-line learning, which was and still is excellent and I now go to my workshop when I can - about half of the week. I call it my home therapy as bizarrely my arm shakes so much that I can hardly write and yet I am able to work mostly shake free in my workshop. Sorry I rambled on a while!
    2 points
  3. Thank you - I’m pretty sure I may use everyone’s advice at some point, but I will certainly look at oldhippyy a lot he seems to give consistent excellent advice about a wide range of topics.
    2 points
  4. Correct providing all is well with the movement.
    2 points
  5. Here is one showing the frequencies.
    2 points
  6. Sadly the only obvious way to see if it is affected is to try it. If you think it might only affect the finish, you could try potting the item in wax, with just the broken stem exposed, but if the main material that the crown is made of does dissolve in alum, then it will go the way of the dodo no matter how careful you are. I presume there is not enough exposed thread to catch with a pin vice or grip with wire cutter jaws. Maybe drilling the broken stem out is the best way forward, you could also try a reverse pitch drill bit, or even simply running a normal drill bit backwards (carefully and slowly, as it will chatter and possibly shatter). The idea is to catch the broken threaded item with the bit and unscrew it with the drill. You will need everything clamped down in your drill press vice though, otherwise your results will be pretty hit or miss. Trying to drill it out by hand is a non starter, and an almost guaranteed way to drill a hole in your hand. Don't ask me why I know.
    2 points
  7. If you look at the picture posted above it's a T end mainspring. The problem with any of the unusual shaped mainsprings are that you can't just push it in it has to be in the right place otherwise it will never magically go into the right place all by itself. Ideally for T end it would be nice if you had a mainspring winder. You'd wind it all most all the way into the winder you'd leave a little bit out. Then you slip the little bit out and the winder into the barrel so your barrel for the winder has to be little smaller than usual. Rotated around until the tea party is over the slot or hold that it goes into push it into place and then use something to hold it in place. Like push on it with the end year tweezers the biggest screwdriver you have it just has to be held in place when you push the mainspring out otherwise it's not going to be there when the mainspring comes out. Once the mainspring is out any fantasy thought of rotating it to get it to go where it's supposed to be is a very very limited. So basically it has to be where it's supposed to be when it's inserted. If you hand wanting it in you do have to make sure it's in the slot before your wind the rest of the spring otherwise the same problem cannot be rotated to get it in place is too much pressure on the barrel wall.
    2 points
  8. That's why you open another checking account in the same bank solely for use with on-line transactions. You can transfer in and out electronically, but the potential loss is severely limited and always in your control. They impose no limits on how much must be in the account...
    1 point
  9. I agree with you 100%. A credit card or PayPal authorization is more than enough for Ebay. I do have my utilities directly debited to a bank account but here in Europe that's common, credit cards are not universal and companies do the possible avoid their fees when possible.
    1 point
  10. Mine has always been tied to a credit card where they could charge me any fees. Now they want to be able to go into my bank account without me having any control? There are never any problems until there are problems and your fighting for 3 months to get your rent money back. Mabey I'm being paranoid but I never let anyone have access to my bank account.
    1 point
  11. Very brief update: My A3642 (dated to '71 instead of '72) is back from service. It's still all original, it's keeping great time (+2s/day in five positions), and the total service cost and time were both reasonable (just under $600 total and 3 weeks). I'm a happy camper now.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. I always try - I’m sure you’d be amazed at some of the blank or confused faces I saw while trying to find certain ingredients/products!
    1 point
  14. Actually I think that as the OP mentioned is to make sure that sellers do pay their listings bills. For buyers there is no added security in letting them know, rather the opposite.
    1 point
  15. I think the require your PayPal to be linked to a bank account for security. I linked mine years ago and never had any problems (even when I was scammed).
    1 point
  16. Its always nice to know that some of the old ways are still with us.
    1 point
  17. Hi. im new to the forum so trying to work my way around the system so I apologise if this is wrong ... I am replying to oldhippy... I try and replicate traditional methods when restoring a case for example. I only use Hyde glue and will use Shellac & Beeswax etc. I hope that answers your questions?
    1 point
  18. Hi I believe the dynabeat was based on the model 40 with the 41 having the calendar work. I have attached the tech sheets for both, the 40 being the base movement my be of some use should you decide to work on them. timex 40.pdf timex 41.pdf
    1 point
  19. JerseyMo our resident Timex electric expert recommends a good squirt of contact cleaner. This is usually to get them going. But this sounds like a cannon pinion problem. I think it's got something to do with a spring clip that locks in the drive from the train to the hands. So needs to cone apart. If I rememberthat clip is tricky to fit.
    1 point
  20. No you just rotate it 360 degrees until the cup is clean. They are called balance sink cups for 30 hour windup movements. That video is good that tool is OK providing the hole you are going to countersink has a hole. In you case it won't work. Looks like Marc can help you out. Well done Marc.
    1 point
  21. I remember when I was learning I would go hang out in a few watch shops. More than a few times I watched old men (like 70) pick up a part- with a shaky hand, already impressive- then at the moment it mated with the watch it was like magic they'd have perfect control. I'd like to think that this new endeavor will help you with your shaking and ptsd, and welcome to the forum!
    1 point
  22. Very nice! My first ever watch restoration was a Poljot with the same movement. I made so many mistakes but eventually got it running well. Nice watches.
    1 point
  23. Close enough? PM me an address and I pop a couple in the post, they may even be with you by the weekend as they've only got about 40 miles to go :-)
    1 point
  24. Hello and welcome to the forum Nick I am glad the impairment does not manifest its self during clock repairs, may be due to the unconcious concentration controlling. Glad to have you aboard my favourites are clocks.
    1 point
  25. Welcome and great story! Gkad to hear your shaking does not impair your click work; or perhaps it’s like a singer with a stutter? No stutter when singing! Im very happy for you to have found a rewarding hobby.
    1 point
  26. Welcome! You have found the right place, I would say. I have a soft spot for old pocket watches myself, but I often need to work on clocks and wristwatches, mine and other's. When it comes to clocks, I defer to Old Hippy. He knows clocks. Enjoy our friendly forum here!
    1 point
  27. I agree with John that finding some pressure sensitive paper should do the trick. I haven't used the Micromat, but did use the generation before quite a bit, however it used an ink ribbon. I do remember reading somewhere that when going to pressure sensitive paper on the Micromat you want to replace the ink plate with a metal plate. All of Greiner's stuff that I've ever used has been absolutely top quality, and it's handy to have a paper tape machine even if you have a modern timing machine as they will pick up and print weirdo watches like cylinders, detent escapements, and duplex.
    1 point
  28. This is the sort of type I had and yes they are expensive. Bergeon tools are very pricey. I have seen them on ebay, look for watch/clock tools vintage. You can buy new from https://www.hswalsh.com/categories/roller-sinkers-and-countersinks or https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/countersinks-bergeon A suggestion from me would be re point the balance pivots and try the balance and see what type of action you get, if its good then leave well alone, if it is still bad then you know what you will need to do. Those tools not only are for that sort of work but they come in handy for making oil sinks when it comes to re-bush and removing burr.
    1 point
  29. A unfortunate problem for paper tape timing machines is the paper. At one time when paper tape machines were more common than some of this other paper like for your machine may have actually been available were now it's only going to be the more common machines. This means possibly going to have to get creative and shrink your paper. In other words I've seen somebody with a saw actually slice a roll of paper with the thinner paper. The first link is your classic paper that does not need a ribbon. You'll notice on the second link the reference to it being blue paper the same description as the first one indicating that it might actually be paper that doesn't need a ribbon. Some of the machines of your type or variations of that used a carbon paper type ribbon which of course some point time disappeared. Notice the third link on the bottom they have a description which gives you the width of the various paper and tells you that some of them are discontinued like the paper found that the other company has? I suspect this is probably a truthful statement because with the electronic timing machine especially the cheap Chinese version paper for paper tape machines will eventually disappear. Fourth full-length scroll down the page it's there two types http://www.julesborel.com/products/tools-watch-timers-and-testing-watch-timing-paper/Blue-Timing-Paper http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.31369/.f https://www.esslinger.com/watch-timing-machine-paper/ http://www.ofrei.com/page256.html
    1 point
  30. What would your idea of original methods be?
    1 point
  31. Thank you for the warm welcome. just to clarify I have moved on and also work on mantle clocks, 400 day (Anniversary Clocks) and Cuckoo clocks. Although I’ll have a go at pretty much anything - the older the better. I try and stick to original methods for restoration etc.
    1 point
  32. It's a common mistake many pros make as well, but it's rebanking. Overbanked is when the safety mechanisms of the escapement are faulty and the fork can cross to the opposing banking at the wrong time, stopping the watch. If it's rebanking after fully winding it could be too strong of a braking grease. 8217 is considered a soft braking grease, I didn't quite get if you've serviced it and used that, or will service it and use that? If the former, maybe try some Kluber P125? If the latter it could be the grease is hard and useless a and a service will do it. It's highly unlikely the watch became more efficient through wear, haha.
    1 point
  33. Hi The "banana" piece is the broken tongue from the outer end of the mainspring which attaches its self to the barrel wall when the spring is installed. Automatics have a much longer piece which acts as a brake and slips as thw watch winds up non automatics employ a spring like yours. see the following Image attached
    1 point
  34. Hello fellow watch enthusiast, I have been working on a new dial and would like your thoughts on it. Created from bare brass and is not, I repeat is not a decal or a decal slide and is not pad printed. Tell me what you think.
    1 point
  35. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. Longcase clocks (grandfather clocks) are one of my favorites. I have lost count how many I have restored/repaired.
    1 point
  36. Welcome to the forum Nick.
    1 point
  37. Russian watches are cheap and cheerful, very unique aesthetic and interesting history. I love 'em. If you aren't already a member of the Russian watch group on watchuseek you should be ;-)
    1 point
  38. Well, that was so easy as to be anticlimactic. I figured 30 minutes was enough curing for a glue I would be removing with acetone anyway, so I gave it a shot using my desktop jeweler's vise (cushioned by some soft plastic). I wouldn't have tried this without a case vice except that I noticed the design of the lugs gave two nice reinforced perpendicular surfaces that would fit easily into a jeweler's vice without significant risk of damage. Slow, even pressure with a 1 1/8" wrench opened the caseback on my first attempt. Easy peasy. Thanks all for the advice!
    1 point
  39. Oils and their viscosity:
    1 point
  40. I've just checked this Dow Corning Molycote from the link above and it is the same product used in watches (as Molycote DX) but in a different packaging...and cheaper.
    1 point
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