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Why not add some more tick tock to the work area!

Hello everyone, please let me introduce myself. I am Nick. I have had a keen interest in clocks and watches since I was a small child as one of my uncles used to repair both at his home and I would stand watching him for hours. I didn’t do anymore than that and grew to the ripe old age of 15 yrs and my first job was a toolmaker ... that was it my interest started to burn again. However my path took a different direction and at the age of 52 yrs I found myself pensioned out of my job with a non-stop shaking right hand and a diagnosis of Complicated PTSD, I am lucky enough to still be receiving treatment for it. As my head slowly started to see my world again the first thing to burn away at me was my desire foe old clocks. Cutting a very long story short, I was given a very old Longcase Clock to try and fix. I invested in some on-line learning, which was and still is excellent and I now go to my workshop when I can - about half of the week. I call it my home therapy as bizarrely my arm shakes so much that I can hardly write and yet I am able to work mostly shake free in my workshop. Sorry I rambled on a while!

Speaking of imitations, I thought I would try to imitate my previous success with a Raketa 2628.H based TV faced Sekonda, which I fiddled with some months back, until I had COSC like accuracy. So I picked up another one in similar basket case condition, with optional non factory fitted rust, and 404 club price tag. This latest one is currently just out of surgery, so I've not dialled it in yet, but it is sitting with a pretty healthy beat, and hovering easily in the +/- 10 sec per day area, so I may well have picked up another rough gem. I stuck it on a Seiko hair puller from the scrap pile, but I think it will look a lot better on a good leather band, or maybe something similar to the watch next to it below. For no good reason, here is a picture of the watches which have recently had some wrist time.

I've had similar, the clock worked perfectly out of the case, but in the case no hope. Turned out to be the strike/silent lever, rubbing against the case, adjust the lever away from the case, all was well. I had been wondering why this clock appeared to have had no use, it hadn't, been faulty from new! Bod.

It's a common mistake many pros make as well, but it's rebanking. Overbanked is when the safety mechanisms of the escapement are faulty and the fork can cross to the opposing banking at the wrong time, stopping the watch. If it's rebanking after fully winding it could be too strong of a braking grease. 8217 is considered a soft braking grease, I didn't quite get if you've serviced it and used that, or will service it and use that? If the former, maybe try some Kluber P125? If the latter it could be the grease is hard and useless a and a service will do it. It's highly unlikely the watch became more efficient through wear, haha.

Hi The "banana" piece is the broken tongue from the outer end of the mainspring which attaches its self to the barrel wall when the spring is installed. Automatics have a much longer piece which acts as a brake and slips as thw watch winds up non automatics employ a spring like yours. see the following Image attached

Hello fellow watch enthusiast, I have been working on a new dial and would like your thoughts on it. Created from bare brass and is not, I repeat is not a decal or a decal slide and is not pad printed. Tell me what you think.

Remove the hairspring and sharpen in the lathe using an Arkansas Stone with oil.

The thickness wont be much I suspect. The way the films I looked at typically work is by adhering to toner, so you print, or transfer your laser or copier toner design on to the brass or whatever your substrate is, then you put the foil on top of the metal substrate, pass it through your heat source, and the foil bonds to the toner (which melts and becomes tacky due to the heat, as heat bonded toners are designed to do). This changes your black toner design to gold, white, metallic, holographic, or whatever your film produces. This means that the layer is likely to be a few hundredths, or even thousandths of a mm or so. The actual thickness will depend on the density of the toner, and the thickness of the bonded layer from the film, but we are talking pretty thin. Here is an academic paper on toner thickness which gave me the ball park figure for the base toner layer. It talks in terms of μm or micrometers (thousands of a mm or 10^-6 meters if you prefer). https://www.imaging.org/site/PDFS/Papers/1997/RP-0-68/2318.pdf Search for information on "laser transfer foils" and "hot stamping foils" if you want to learn more about the idea.

One of the problems with modern watches they seem to run forever. The modern lubricants tend to dry up or just disappear without really being noticed that there gone. Then the ceiling of the case the gaskets they tend to disappear with time or breakdown or they just allow moisture into the watch. Eventually a watch comes to a stop and getting a watch service that hasn't ever been serviced is usually more expensive than getting it serviced from time to time. Kinda like if you'd never change the oil in your car ever and maybe it leaks out a little bit that's going to be really really expensive rather than doing what you were supposed to be doing in the first place. Watches really do need to be serviced occasionally and 15 years is kinda pushing it. Kinda like an inside joke somebody doesn't tell us what were talking about would this be the company by some chance https://www.timpson.co.uk/services/watch-repairs Really impressive website although I would let them touch a watch. It's impressive in that it's not impressive. Even more impressive was the link I found below this one another happy customer okay maybe the word happy isn't quite right maybe the better term would be a very very very unhappy customer who agrees never take your watch their. One of the problems with watches based on other calibers is that based on does not mean exactly the same there will be unfortunate differences. https://reference.grail-watch.com/movement/as-5008/

I think I'd go for fake on this one. A bit of googling suggests that it should have "Swiss Made" on the dial, and that the movements should be Mido signed versions of either ETA or AS movements depending on whether or not chronometer grade.

I'm guessing the problem is you're using Tapatalk Whatever the heck that is and instead of attaching pictures from your folder of your hard drive it's attaching links of where the folders of Image location. Occasionally because I feel like being a nice person and I wanted to see the pictures there down below. You might look into a different app that lets you actually attach pictures rather than links. As far as swapping parts go because the age of the watches their almost custom-made's swapping parts really isn't the best approach. Because of their age lubing would be nice but cleaning before you Lube would be better. Then the word of the day for you to learn is suspended barrel. that term sounds vaguely familiar? It's amazing what you do if you do a search of the messageboard there's probably more references but this one looked vaguely familiar like of seen it before? https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/14947-mainspring-barrel-not-secured-on-one-side/

more fun to spin some clocks. They are multiplying!

no one makes generic replacements. You have some options - 1) find another vintage Timex watch that has a bezel that can be switched. 2) find an NOS bezel. Although this is very unlikely because with the recent interest in vintage Timex these have become sort after by an even large group than before. 3) 3-d print one. Some are looking into this but no one I know of have competed making one. Not an m24 instead it is an m25. Also know that all Timex bezels are not alike. The task of finding replacement bezels is perhaps the single greatest challenge in collection vintage Timex. I have hunted them for 15 years! Yep they are "rare as hens teeth" as they say in Texas.... But the first time I heard that was from a Scotsman living in Edinburgh.

And spin a record!

Howdy all, picked up a couple of nice seiko pieces other day, a 6319 6032 black pogue, and a 6138 0011 ufo. Both run beautifully.

That's good that they're not for sale because had you've offered to sell me a dial I would've reported this discussion to Mark as you would be in violation of the message board rules. There's a section in the rules titled "Advertising, self promotion and posting links." As someone else pointed out were an open discussion group we share ideas and knowledge. You asked for our help you need our feedback and you don't want to share other than look what I did isn't it nifty. Just my personal view that doesn't seem like you're embracing why this group is in existence.

That would make a wrist watch real heavy, wont it? Welcome to the forum Paul and good luck with your forey into horology. Regards Joe

I did only have the service sheet for the AS 5008. This technical documentation will be of great help when servicng a watch like this, I took a look at the usuall places like Cousines for documents and they only had some strange version of the tech sheet. This is not a watch for a beginner to start with but for future use and if someone else is interrested I upload the HSL edition of the sheets AS 5008 HSL EDITION.pdf

I can hear it overbanking for a couple of seconds, like a galloping horse. The watch gained 35 seconds in a couple of hours when it has gained 3 second in 3 days. Something is not right and I think it's the mainspring lubrication that I am going to have another attempt at.