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I think the Landeron 248 has the following sizes: Hour hand 1.85 Minute hand 1.30 Center second Hand 0.25 So if you want to try one from a different Landeron movement it should be the Landeron 51

In order to maintain a healthy and friendly community there are some restrictions for new members as well as benefits for those who contribute the most to this forum. It has occurred to me - or rather, been pointed out to me that I have never really made the details clear. And for that I apologise and I hope this post will be helpful. All members will find their current forum status in the left pane of any content they post on the forum (non-mobile) or by clicking on their display name to view their profile. MEMBER LEVELS NEW MEMBERS (Zero to 9 Posts) New members can post immediately and have access to most areas on the website. New members cannot customise their signatures New members cannot create polls but can participate and vote New members can edit their own posts within 10 minutes of posting that content New members can report posts to moderators New members can start up to 2 private messages per day and to a maximum of 1 recipient per message - with a 50 message storage quota New members are automatically promoted to full Members when they have posted more than 9 times and have gained reputation (*). MEMBERS (10 to 99 Posts with positive reputation *) Members can customise their signatures (**) Members can create polls as well as participate and vote in other member polls Members can edit their own posts within 3 Hours of posting that content Members can start as many private messages per day as needed and to a maximum of 5 recipients per message - with a 150 message storage quota Members are automatically promoted to Advanced Members when they have posted more than 99 times and gained 50 or more reputation points (*). NEW: ADVANCED MEMBERS (100+ Posts With 50+ Reputation *) Advanced Members can customise their signatures (***) Advanced Members can edit their own posts within 3 Days of posting that content Advanced Members can start as many private messages per day as needed and to a maximum of 5 recipients per message - with a 200 message storage quota Patrons and Supporters gain the same privileges as Advanced Members * Reputation is gained when you post content and other members react to that content - you can see your current reputation score within your info-pane, under your avatar. ** Members are allowed up to 1 link in their signature which MUST follow the forum rules and up to two lines of text. To keep the board clean we do not allow images in signatures. *** Advanced Members are allowed up to 2 links in their signature which MUST follow the forum rules and up to four lines of text. To keep the board clean we do not allow images in signatures. RANK TITLES Ranks are just a bit of fun to acknowledge your level of participation on this forum. It is mostly based on your post count. Your forum rank is displayed in the Info Pane of any post you submit on the forum and your rank is displayed under your Display Name. WATCH ENTHUSIAST - 50 Posted Content Items WRT ADDICT - 100 Posted Content Items SUPER WRT ADDICT - 500 Posted Content Items After you have posted 500 content items you will be able to customise your own Rank Title to display under your Display Name DISTINGUISHED MEMBER - 1000 Posted Content Items If you have any questions regarding the above then please post your thoughts below and I will try my best to answer.

We are **LINK REMOVED - PLEASE READ THE RULES**, In Vietnam, we are the first to follow the direction of professional watch repair. However, in our country there are still many restrictions on new technologies. Even so, we still try to fix the downside factors. And here are some pictures of us in Vietnam. What do you think about us, please give us the most sincere comments. Thank for all.

I was going to make a "coming in the mail" post about this circa-1965 Poljot Signal, but it's already here. I do not wear *wrist* watches often, but the alarm on this watch is just so doggone handy. I can be forgetful. I adore alarm watches.

A Simson Schwalbe restored by my Dad. Probably it does not mean a lot to the ppl who did not enjoy the hospitality of the soviet/eastern block of Europe in the second half of the 20th century. I love every bit of it and I am going to be the happy owner of it!

I got the little four piece aluminum set we talked about earlier, and two of those urea plastic oil cups. I have five oils/greases, but I haven't really bothered putting two of them in the cups since they're used so infrequently, so one of the cups would have been sufficient. They're only $3 or so apiece, and the urea plastic is really hard stuff. It "tinks" like glass or ceramic or something. Feels like it'd shatter if you dropped it on a hard floor, but in a good way. I was expecting something like ABS. They were recommended by someone on here. All that is to say, you COULD spend $180 on an oiler setup, but you can also spend less than $20. I'm not a cheapskate by any means, I sprung for the Bergeon student driver set (30080 if memory serves), the 1900 timegrapher, etc., but I didn't feel like the return delta on the oiler sets was likely to be worth the 8X cost based on what I read here from people far more experienced. As with everything I've said here, consider the source. I'm something like 0-6 in my watchmaking career... I still think I can ultimately get maybe two of them to run, so they've been spared the "art" bin, but I'm a 110% n00b.

I would, and will, get the smallest auto oiler I can get. All I would use it for is cap jewels, so I don't need a fire hose. That Ofrei starter kit is probably a decent enough kit. All quality parts. I use just about everything in that kit, bought separately from different brands/suppliers. I have slightly nicer screwdrivers (don't skimp there- they, and tweezers, are your "bread n butter").

Chrome is often plated over nickel so I doubt just nickel will be as durable. There are copy chrome options designed to look like chrome but not be as toxic or risky. But I also doubt they are as durable. I've been interested in the idea of rhodium plating a watch myself. Haven't tried it yet, but that could look quite nice like chrome does.

I have created a new Theme for the forum for people who might find it easier on the eye. The DARK MODE theme can be accessed by using the "Theme" selector at the bottom of the website.

did you notice if you go to YouTube where the video is the comments have been turned off? Always suspicious when I see a video or you cannot comment. to get a better understanding I found a company that's doing it. Notice if you look at their link below the reference to mechanical watches can't be used because too much friction of trying to run in the fluid. this is an interesting comment because quartz watches are even more susceptible to friction than mechanical watches. My suspicion is they designed a special quartz watch plus the reference to the lithium battery they probably have a super large battery to make up for all the energy loss of trying to drive the secondhand through a fluid. Also a note they don't actually say what the fluid is but I suspect that it's probably superlight fluid. So all the hobbyists filling their watches with mineral oil are going to get a very short running time. https://www.sinn.de/en/HYDRO.htm

Sorry I did not have access to the pictures.I presume the hand you are referring to is the hand that sits in the middle of the dial. I call it the fly back hand because when used it re-sets back to the 12 o’clock position. Because of this action it has to has to have a really tight fit, if not it drifts away from the 12 o’clock position. Cousins are good source for watch hands.

Already discussed below: 1

Compression isnt a factir unless your at great depths.....again....unless youre a deep dive scuba diver its not really worth it. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The real reason is to be able to see the watch underwater at angles without distortion. Silicone oil is the way to go as mineral can disintegrate plastic parts. Really unless youre a scuba diver its really not worth the effort as any future work will require extra work. Also once its filled theres no turning back without a complete restoration. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Unless the arbour sticks out enough so you can catch it in vernier, hands and dial plate are to be pulled out to gain access to it. Clockboy is a knowlegable horologist, once he sees the picture you later posted, he will give a more suitable advice.

I am 110% sure clockboy hasn't the pictures. There are ought to be an easier approach to this.

Measure the arbour that the hand attaches too & measure from centre for length. Go to a material house to match the style.

Thanks for the video. That's similar to the sideshake I'm getting. I fitted a new centre wheel, and while the sideshake has reduced somewhat, it's still fairly significant. So I've managed to get my hands on a favorit jewelling tool off ebay. Gonna have a go at changing the upper and lower jewels, and then I will report back. Thanks for the continued help and input. David

Thanks Mark.

As has already been mentioned in this thread, I would also encourage you to take a look at the British Horological Institute's correspondence course. It is excellent and the qualification is recognised if you complete and pass the exams. The only downside for you I guess is that (and I could be wrong) the exams need to be completed at the BHI HQ near notts, England. But most of the work is distance learning and you do get access to a tutor I believe. On the plus side, it could be a nice little vacation when you do need to complete the exams

I'm not a fan of kits as most that I have ever seen tend to be limiting or poor quality. The high quality kits tend to be aimed towards strap and battery changing/removing links and general after sales rather than on-the-bench watch repairing. I did create a blog post with some essential "Day 1" tools that are advisable to have on hand when you are creating your tool kit and you may find that useful. https://www.watchrepairlessons.com/2019/09/30/essential-day-1-tools/ Perhaps you could use that as a guide - all of these tools are readily available from many different online sources such as Cousins UK, eBay, Amazon etc etc.. There is also a PDF I have made available which may help you decide on your Day 1 lubricants kit which you can download here: I hope this helps. P.S. - Moving this thread to the tools section

I have replicated your error and will fix it - thanks for letting me know. EDIT: That was quick - I messed up, didn't add the new "Advanced Member" group to the Dark Theme access list - my apologies, fixed now.

That's weird. I've been it in, and now I've been reverted to white screen, and I can't find the "theme" section to click back to it. It seems to have gone missing.

I have that particular set of oilers. It's the only set I've ever had though, so I can't really say if they're better or worse than anything else. When I was compiling my spreadsheet for my initial tool layout, the feedback I got suggested oilers are a really personal thing, and that it's best to try a few different styles out before going all in on a particular type. As cheap as they are, it makes sense. As often as I see references to old and/or broken oilers being used for odd tasks, I figured I'd start somewhere that seemed decent, and then just work my way around as they break or get "old". I think an automatic oiler seems like a huge time/sanity saver. One of the most difficult tasks is getting the oil ever so perfectly round, centered, and in the right quantity on the capstones with my poor lighting/optics. It seems like one of those skills that's definitely worth mastering, but for my purposes I'm not sure I wouldn't rather buy my way out and get that skill through other, less tedious ways.

Not sure f the oiler question was directed to me, or just in general, but I have a set of A-F ones (I think) and they are fine. Considering an automatic oiler to deal with the balance jewels on this pocket watch I'm working on however...

Thanks! It was my grandfather’s and I also have a matching smaller one that was my grandmother’s. I also have a Hamilton, which was also his, which was fixed up in the 90’s and still working well. I want to get these going and see how they run.

Be aware that some folk are allergic to Nickel, myself included. Last time I wore a nickel plated watch I had a severe rash all the way up my arm which took about 3 weeks to clear - nickel poisoning.

Here is another dial I made for a 36mm case with oversized crown both with raised dials

150 is not that old for a clock. Yes many are in museums. Here is a fabulous clock by joint masters its a William and Mary Quare-Tompion

The original clock. 150 years old.

Hi OH, some already are munseum piece. This a present from Queen victoria to the palace of the king in Tehran, was considered to do much better if the public saw what britts built back in those days, so was installed in a bussy square for all to see, received regulare service and was working until just recently when taken down for a major overhaul, thereupon will be put on exhibition in museum I have heard.