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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/20 in all areas
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Guys I did it it's working I cleaned the ground soldering and soldered a new wire then put it in an aluminum external hard drive case and stuffed the front and the back with aluminum foil and voilà it's working perfectly (well I don't know it it's perfect but who cars it's working). I tried a citizen 8200a and a Seiko 7009 and an Orient 46941 on Watch-o-scope and the results weren't satisfying at all looks like I have to service them again the Citizen and the Seiko rates are all jumping all over the place so I'm not including them to save my self some embarrassment . the Orient however was consistent not good but consistent but hey that's why I'm building this thing in the first place. Now I need to put the circuit in a proper case and solder the jacks and do some organizing then build some sort of proper stand for the pick up the Piezo element I'm using is about 20 mm I tried a 35 mm one and a 10 mm one but the 20 mm one seems the be the best. I have this DVB that I took it's guts out I think it would look neat but the problem is it's plastic I'm not sure if I line the inside with aluminum foil what would happen I might try that now these are the schematics and links I used in this project (I flipped some of the pictures and put them over each other so I can understand what's going on): http://www.watchoscope.com/amplifier.html 46943.mp36 points
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Brand new members - 10 mins Members - 1 Hour Patrons & Supporters - 1 Day I will make a change, but it will be the last time... New members - still 10 Minutes Members - 3 Hours Patrons & Supporters - 3 Days2 points
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out of curiosity do you value your time? you have zero idea which are doing which means your chance of success is limited. The DIY approach for the amplifier and especially the pickup to be somewhat problematic even if you know what you're doing. Versus just buying the Chinese 1000 timing machine and being done with it? on the other hand if you look at this as a fun project you don't care what the value of your time is and conceivably by the time to get through you may spend more money in time and effort in parts than to just buy one then you can proceed.. It would be helpful if we had a picture of the pickup itself and how you're trying to pick up the watch. also a picture of everything in other words the amplifier the battery the laptop everything so we can see how your wiring it all up. With just the amplifier hooked up the laptop no pickup nothing what does that sound like?2 points
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I knew in the back off my head I had a service sheet for this and on my old NAS I found this. JLC 815_HSL Edition.pdf Seems my memory served me well2 points
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Hello Fellow Watchmakers, I havent been on here for a while now, but every time I have a Problem with one of my watches or Watch Projects I come here and get good answers. Thanks for that. My current project is making a watch case and chronograph pusher buttons myself. I am using a Seagull st1901 Movement and I am trying to find a brightly colored Dial (31,5-32mm) that fits this movement. I thought I could use a dial for an Valjoux movement but the subdial holes dont quite line up. I can find a lot of watches that use this movement and have dials I like, but I cant find the dials themselve. Only black ones which I dont like. Does anyone know where I could get a white-ish brightly colored watch dial with 31,5-32mm diameter that fits the Seagull st1901 movement. I kinda need one soon because this is going to be a gift for a family member and I have to get this watch done. I added a lot of pictures of the project and one of the dials I like. I would be very thankfull if anyone can help me find a dial. Thanks in advance.1 point
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Hi, My name is Tommy, from Hong Kong. My mainly collection 60's Sports Seiko & some porcelain dial 10-20's watch , too. I now have 40 watches in my collection ,over 20 is Seikos1 point
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I have created a new Theme for the forum for people who might find it easier on the eye. The DARK MODE theme can be accessed by using the "Theme" selector at the bottom of the website.1 point
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Some more pictures would be nice just as some already stated. I just saw Jon provided some pictures but since i already prepared these I post these too The second wheel, 227 (ETA terminology) is indeed going thru the middle center tube on the movement plate. ETA probably choose to call it so just because of the fact the seconds hand is attached to it. On the center tube you then got the canon pinion with driving wheel attached, 242. Here is the ceter tube from the dial side. Here is the canon pinion. Now we drop in the center wheel, it has a collet which now should be leaning on the center tube. Here we now can see the second wheel pivot peek out. With this in mind there are only two options when the seconds wheel pivot will peek out as far as in your picture. 1. The Center tube is gone 2. You got the wrong center wheel, these come on different HH modules stretching from HH1 to HH6. I think HH1 is about 4.8mm high while HH6 is about 6.07mm.1 point
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Could you also post some pictures of the circuit schematics, your peizo pickup wired to circuit board and power supply. Maybe you have a ground loop somewhere.1 point
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@Mark, I am among those who are grateful for the dark mode option. I immediately switched over to it. I am somewhat photosensitive. You have done me (and many others here, I am sure) a kindness. Thanks for that.1 point
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As JDM already mentioned - there’s now a three dot ellipses which provides a sub menu. The developers of this forum software changed this in the new update - apparently due to ‘button creep’, an attempt to de-clutter. I like it.1 point
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I will take a look EDIT: I took a look at this and made an adjustment (the only adjustment that seemed relevant). Does it work as expected now for you?1 point
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It has just moved to the three dots top right, we learned that means "more stuff here". And the hide and seek is gone when looking for "report post". Nice update and nice colors, thanks again Mark!1 point
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New one to me. My first Seiko Ana/Digi Should be a fun refurb [emoji4]1 point
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Scored my first Hamilton Khaki used for a decent price ! Should receive it sometime next week. Not the best pictures but looks in decent enough condition and will serve as a "plug and go" watch for me that I won't have to baby !1 point
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if you are including me in the naysayer you're not paying attention to what I was trying to say. There's nothing wrong with trying to learn to how to build something the problem is if you're trying to build something that has a problematic success. let me break down the problematic parts? The software is outstanding although it could have a few improvements but still overall it's wonderful. the amplifier don't have any experience with his, I designed my own. the problematic part is the microphone. You're attempting to pick up a vibration not a sound even though a sound is a vibration. The vibration is very very very quiet. to test this out you should ideally find a pocket watch you need something it's making a lot of noise. In the absence of a pocket watch a clock will work. That is once you figure out why your amplifier circuits noisy. In the absence of a box to put it in wrap it with something insulating and then wrapped that with aluminum foil making sure the aluminum foil is grounded. The circuitry to pick up Ava where a quiet watch unfortunately has to have a heck of a lot again and any loose wires anything not shielded all going to pick up signal.1 point
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Well first of all let me say that I've been "playing" with electronic devices all my life. I started out knowing nothing, and eventually ended up knowing enough to make a living out of it. Most of what I know, I found out for myself, so I totally agree with this sentiment. Noise is always present in any analog circuit. Amplifiers amplify, so they amplify the signal and they amplify the noise. The trick is to keep the signal to noise ratio acceptable. Since we only have the noise here, it is a little difficult as @rodabod pointed out, to tell if the amplifier is noisy, or if we are simply hearing very low level noise amplified. A high end HiFi amplifier works in pretty much the same way as a cheap one, the only real difference (apart from the sales speak and the eye watering price tag) is that the high end HiFi amp has higher fidelity. This means that it has a better signal to noise ratio, and produces less distortion than the cheap one. In this case, the most likely cause of the noise is one of the following. A nearby mobile phone. Switching noise from the power supply powering the amplifier. Switching noise from nearby light fittings, wall warts, LED lighting power supplies or whatever. It sounds too "dirty" to be simply mains hum, but it does appear to have a low frequency component, so mains hum may be a part of it. There is no big low frequency hump at the left of the spectrum though. VLC's simple spectrum analyser is pretty crude, but it does show the noise is fairly broad spectrum. I don't have anything more sophisticated to hand, but my gut feeling is that your amplifier is working just fine, but without a useful input signal it is amplifying all manner of the usual junk found in the local electrical environment.1 point
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You need to find a silversmith. Are you aware it will make the watch worthless.1 point
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The other thing to watch out for is sources of EMI, so LED lamps, mobile phones, etc. We have no reference point of the relative level of your noise recording, so it’s hard to judge how good it is (unless we are meant to be hearing a watch ticking under that noise!).1 point
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Don't listen to the naysayers. If it's something you want to do, and it's not detracting from other critical things, it's a worthwhile project. Expect failure, learn, and do better the next time. Eventually your success will surprise you. He said the sound decreased when he touched it. Additionally, the soldering on the back of the breadboard looks like there are some tenuous joints to ground. I'd go back, clean up that solder work, and pay extra attention to your ground. I assume you're using a DC power supply brick, some of those make a fair amount of noise. You may try a different model/manufacturer to see if that clears anything up. Last item down that totem pole is EMF. In hifi tube circuitry, it's common practice to keep your power supply lines totally separate from any signal lines to avoid internal interference. You're dealing with very low voltage signals in both applications, but this one is much much much lower voltage. Regardless, a solidly designed layout never hurts. For external interference, you can put the whole thing in a makeshift faraday cage and get rid of the external badnasties.1 point
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I am now a couple of quid the poorer, but the proud(?!) owner of this two for the price of one. Who can resist a 25 jewel automatic for less than the price of a sparkplug for the lawnmower. Apparently it/they might need a battery. I've got a few of those in the shed, maybe something like this might do the trick The ladies watch is a "Delvina", and you might think that name would be easy to research but "Delvina" only narrows it down to three possible origins. Time will tell. Who knows, when we take a peek inside we might get more clues. I am a little worried by the implication that it/they might be "cogs parts steampunk" as there are no pictures of "the works", just external views, but there is no evidence of anybody doing anything too destructive to them apart from abusing the Delvina with a little superglue. On the plus side, if it turns out to be just a bunch of steampunk cogs, at least I'll still be able to cut the grass.1 point