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I'm attaching a couple of images that show how to do it and how not to do it. Do not rely on the pivot that goes into the hole to get the oil to Flow. Ideally want something that's really in much smaller than the hole itself..

The reason why The repair is so expensive is several reasons. If you take the watch to a jewelry store and they send it out for repair they mark up the repair cost considerably. Ideally you want to find the repair shop yourself you'll get a better price. But no matter what this watch is going to be expensive to get repaired. If the shop really was a Rolex shop they nearly double the cost of anything that's a vintage watch. Then if it's complicated like a chronograph it will go up again. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-nov-29 Then Nucejoe was kind of kidding about a decade of experience. For instance depending upon where you're located their schools teaching professional watchmakers two years there would put you in a much better position the service a chronograph. But Mark does have chronograph videos I have a link below for one of them not the same caliber as yours unfortunately but don't give you a clue is only six parts should bill a breeze through that no time. Okay here's the problem it's a chronograph with some stuff on the dial side it's a little more complicated. There is a service manual for it but it's really big file size so I'm not going to attach it. In order service this yourself you're going to need to learn how to master servicing a watch without breaking it probably service several of them without breaking them. Then I would find one of these movements on eBay to practice on before working on something that you prize. Because no matter what in watch repair things happen and breaking something that you value is actually a really good lesson in watch repair to teach you why you shouldn't be repairing it in the first place. It just depends on how much pain and suffering you like. So it's not impossible that you can repair it yourself it just isn't something that we would advise you to do at least not right now until you get lots of experience. Then as you didn't say where you're located it makes it hard to make recommendations of where you might look for repair shop. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Valjoux_72 https://youtu.be/EI3T-IR3AgM Valjoux_Valjoux 72.pdf

Whatever is used for regulation is supposed to be really really close to the hairspring. There shouldn't be a lot of play then you ideally should be in the center.

Just sidetracking a little. Here is a cleaning basket which I made from a tea strainer. I fix it to my drill press and spin it in a jar of cleaning fluid. Works pretty well.

Not rare, nor exceptionally valuable, but of my several pocketwatches, it's one of the most useful and endearing. The third hand sets the alarm. At work I might go to lunch at different times, there is no clock in the breakroom, and dealing with protected information we must lock up our cell phones before duty. Watches are how we tell time there. My alarm tells me when my break is over. Technically assembled by Public Watch Co, with a Baumgartner 222 movement, it is surprisingly accurate for what it is (that, and I spent quite some time regulating it). I think it's around 50 mm +/-. Value-wise, it's probably a step up from "Dollar watches", but I love it anyway; it's alarm has been a handy reminder quite often.

Hi all!! I inherited two watches from my late father. One is his retirement watch, a Seiko from the 80s that has a pretty beat up crystal and I doubt has ever been cleaned. I replaced the battery and it works, but I'm sure it could use more servicing. The second watch is my prize. It is a Wittnauer Geneve 242t. Dad was a B58 and B52 pilot and probably bought it when he retired from the Air Force. It's so cool! Unfortunately it doesn't work. I took it to a jeweler with the intent of having it restored and they sent it to a Rolex repair shop. The estimate to fix is $1,840. I'm at a loss as to what to do as that is a big chunk of change for me to lay out right now. I turned to YouTube to see if there are any videos featuring this watch and no. That's where I found Mark from thewatchrepairchannel. I love his videos. They are concise and well laid out. It looks daunting, but maybe I can fix this watch myself. I'm here for advice to see if I'm on the right track or should I take it to an expert.

There is something definitely really wrong here. I know from experience when I listen to bad advice for a Seiko and applied the Kluber P125 Around the entire rim. When I was manually winding it up with the screw of the ratchet wheel and I reached the end I almost thought I was going to break the screw head off. Yes it slipped but it was so dramatically not slip paying which is why thought I'd going to break the head off. The you seem to be getting the exact opposite of what should be occurring there is definitely something not right here at all. The dimensions of the new spring versus the old are they the same for the Springs look the same?

This is why we have things like the etachron system where it makes it much easier to get the hairspring where it's supposed to be. Then because you can open and close the regulator pins once you get the watch regulated you can close them down so is basically touching the hairspring on both sides and get much better timekeeping. Or usually on high precision watches chronometer grade watches they tossed the entire regulator and go with a free sprung balance as it does make a lot easier to have linear timekeeping.

Longines Flahship Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You sound like a British cut and paste version of me! Welcome!

Hi Karl! As soon as I get it back from the Rolex shop I will post photos. Lol on the dropping it from the B52! Thank you so much for your support!

I love your reference to a Ducati. I used to ride a Harley and then a GSXR 1000, so I totally get what you mean. Honestly, the more I read in the forums the more I realized me trying to fix this watch would be a really bad idea. I still love the forum though, and I hope I can still hangout, read, and learn.

At first I was thinking that you were fed "a line" by the jeweler about the "Rolex shop". But after searching on that movement I see that it may have Valjoux 72 chrono movement in it. I believe that some classic Rolex chronos use that same movement. I agree with others about the virtual impossibility of fixing it yourself without doing more harm than good. That said, that price probably includes some things that you can do without. That sounds like a complete refurbishment price to me. Depending on the condition of things, you may be able to get by with a clean and oil to get it running. You won't get guaranteed waterproofing, new crystal, etc., but you may be able to make it wearable. As you can see in the information that JohnR275 provided, there are a lot of parts in that movement. Just keeping the screws of so many different shapes and sizes takes a special type of care. And if something got lost of broken during repair I don't think you'll have access to a large inexpensive supply of replacement parts for a Valjoux 72. If you're in the USA, Annie, you might consider navigating to the AWCI website. They are an organization specializes in watch and clock repair information, continuing education, etc., and has a list of watchmakers who you can probably set store in. Maybe there is one in your area? That's where I'd be headed. Best of luck. It sounds like a great watch to have inherited.

First thing to do is to unpin that hairspring off of stud.( most important). (Your search show should a similair advice I gave, OP didn't listen, spent ages like thisand ended up buying a new HS. ) To unpin I insert the stud back in the stud carrier even instal the cock, then unpin. Next remove the HS and put it on a white sheet of paper. No tac is needed. Run an oiler through the coil, start form collet outwards, to untangle any circle stuck under another, each time all the way to the end of HS, then you will see a much less tangled coil that is not hopeless at all. Good luck.

JohnR725 makes excellent points (and enlightens me with a needed reminder): it's a chronograph, and many repair places will send it out, and charge for doing so. As he says, finding a reputable local shop will mitigate some of that cost. And it is somewhat true that some of us have near-masochistic tendencies, working on watches with complications which other technicians won't touch for fear of the headaches they will have. Our knuckles white, our hands steady despite the adrenalin, we soldier on, hoping the metallic collection of bits and bobs before us will work when we are done doing whatever we have to. It gives one a bit of a rush. Especially when we *do* get it to work well. You can grow a little addicted to it. That, and the fascination that comes from watching a mechanical movement doing its thing can put one in, like, a state of Zen. If you do go down this path, Annie, you may find it enjoyable. But as John here says, don't let your very first project be a chronograph. That'd be almost akin to learning to ride a motorcycle by hopping onto a Ducati Monster.

just made one using a pegwood

I made a tool by gluing an old broken balance staff in to a bit of brass tube. I find it useful for those annoying little Seiko Diafix jewels.

Welcome to the forum Karl.

Let me be the 1st one to welcome you to the friendliest forum in the world. I'm not sure why your post is not receiving the love from our usual welcoming party. Perhaps everyone is out partying after being lockdown for so long. There is no such thing as a dumb question here. We are all here to share and learn. I've asked enough dumb questions in my lifetime to fill a whole room. May your hobbies fill your life with endless hours of enjoyment.

For the price asked seems like learning how to make (CNC or not) this kind of parts may be a killer business.

The 215 is a quite common movement for a Patek Philippe, but as with all expensive watches the replacements are expensive too since they aren't mass produced. Here you got one at the bay selling the wheel you ask about, the rest of the parts are out there too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Patek-Philippe-Geneva-Cal-215-part-1x-under-crown-wheel-420-diameter-3-4-mm/133217216347?hash=item1f045d675b:g:ywkAAOSw4bhcJQ0P

Try putting way way more Kluber P125 On the barrel wall like perhaps all the way around the wall.

Hi Andy and welcome to the happy factory.

Hello and welcome to the forum Andy

Okay then you have a rub in jewel and then @JohnR725 provided you with an excellent picture. The tools fpr the trade to be successful depends of the size of the pivot hole. I use an modified Red oiler or a super fine cap jewel oiler. For a good result on those ones you need to have a good pegwood to clean it out with first. My tools for the trade when not using an automatic oiler.

Welcome Andy , enjoy the forum.

Welcome to the forum, Andy. RoAmer is one of my favorate brands.

Just to add a splash of colour, the cask back of the Conquest I'm currently working on

The hairspring should be free from both sides of the pins/boot. What ever position the regulator is in the H/S should be free. This applies to most but there are the exceptions.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Hopefully a decade of experience after graduation from Mark Lovicks courses, you will have acquired enough skills to attempt servicing the Wittnauer complications. Let us enjoy watching its picture please. Meanwhile we can have fun playing baseball or with the seiko. Just a thought. Regards.

Karl here. I would love to see pics if you can post them. I know very little about Seiko. But Wittnauer I've seen off and on. I know some repair technicians can charge a pretty penny, but did the estimate they gave you go into detail on what the needed repairs were. That figure does sound pretty steep. Was it dropped from a B52? (Which could actually cause a costly batch of repairs I imagine.) Either way, it would be a great thing to get it running. I wish you luck with them both.

I am an odd duck. I wear mine, to work and elsewhere. But I also wear a suit with vest, or trousers with watch pocket. I kept trying to like wrist watches, but I either kept getting a rash underneath, or kept banging them up somehow. Below is my Longines right before I had it polished. I am having trouble finding other files that will upload.

Is this a beautiful movement or what!! Asking for a friend. 40A3865A-D85E-4647-A8DD-7281E4E37282.mp4

Unfortunately I am out of this part for the PUW 60, but there are a couple of PUW movements using the same. Kronradring 422 (60) , PUW 60, PUW 61, PUW 61S, PUW 63, PUW 65 If you sometime in the feature would need another bearing I have Kronradring 422 (70) for PUW 70, PUW 73, PUW 80, PUW 260, PUW 261, PUW1260, PUW 1261, PUW 560, PUW 561, PUW 562, PUW 563T, PUW 564T, PUW 565T, PUW1560, PUW 1561, PUW 1562, PUW 1563T, PUW 1564T, PUW 561E, PUW 562E. PUW 1561E, PUW 1562E

Hi Daniel Ichecked the down load It appeared it was duff so I have attached two pictures of the movement again. If you checkout the setting lever spring with yours its the same so dfrom that I would deduce Its a Gruen probably 145 .

1-Imperfect hairspring coil can foul itself when amplitude gets too high so the rate goes fast , until such time that HS coil jumps back to normal. 2- Loose and pushed back guard pin, fails to guard the roller table- impulse jewel properly, in which case if the balance wheel gets in a hurry on wrist it is susceptible to the condition in section 1. Faulty guarding by the pin, can let the condition for sticking to come about.

If anyone is interested, I found the original crystal 2 years ago on ebay. I found it by searching the dimensions and brand name "wyler". I also got the dial refinished last week, looks a lot better. The font is gone, but the memory is forever. My good friend died shortly after I found the crystal, but I will keep the watch hopefully forever.

He is an excellent machinist in the North East USA. He advertises in the NAWCC mart paper. Actually theres a couple machinists in the mart paper ive used to repivot such small arbors. I can repivot certain things but when it come to the micro pivoting i send them off. As with gear cutting. Im not setup with a mill and id rather have a machinist with the experience do that.

I wear one every day. Most of my jeans have those watch pockets and all but my largest pocket watch fits in them. I never, ever carry a pocket watch without some kind of chain. I dropped a watch once....ONCE! Here is where I store mine. This was a small display cabinet for something, I dunno what originally. I got it at Goodwill for $2.50. My father made the drop in shelf adapters .My biggest Pocket watch is way to big to fit in the case, so it sits under a dome.