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Hi Luiz HSL is correct the inner ring is missing and the screw locks down on to the crown wheel not the ring. The part is numbered 422 and known as the crown wheel ring.

Just took a look and PUW movements in general has a crown wheel with a small bearing. And by the looks of your ratchet screw I would say it is missing the small bearing and is upside down. I just pop a picture on a common PUW ratchet wheel here so you can see what it might look like.

If the stem doesn't want to unscrew out of the crown peacefully, this is a perp before re-attempt. Following application of penetrating oil, you then attempt to unscrew the stem.

Quick update in case anyone is curious: The specific watch I was looking at was sold to another buyer. After more research, I'm convinced that replacing the crown tube (or is it properly called the case tube or pendant tube?), would have been a pretty straightforward task with the correct tools and technique. If I weren't concerned with using factory parts, generic parts are readily available. I'm starting to understand the frustration I've read about obtaining factory parts from the Swatch group! Obtaining the correct parts would have been a challenge. The US Sinn AD wouldn't sell me the parts, and Sinn responded to my request to purchase the parts by referring me back to the US AD. The Sinn US repair partner, RGM, hasn't responded to my parts inquiry yet. Although I wasn't destined to purchase this specific watch, this has been a fascinating research exercise. Thank you @rodabod for your helpful hint on this repair. Cheers, Dan

Hi Daniel Ichecked the down load It appeared it was duff so I have attached two pictures of the movement again. If you checkout the setting lever spring with yours its the same so dfrom that I would deduce Its a Gruen probably 145 .

Hi From besffit research it looks like a Gruen 145 Setting lever spring matches. Aldo attached is a picture from ebay with the self same movement A Gruen . Vintage Gruen Rare High Grade 17 Jewels 5 Adjustments 22.10mm Movement lot.t _ eBay.html

I think it could be a FHF 1146 with a modified bridge layout and keyless works. Not an expert in the slightest so somebody else may be able to get closer than me. http:// http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&FHF_1146_10_5

Hi Luiz I have attached tech sheet for the 560 Not your caliber but it shows the part. 3422_PUW 560.pdf

Crown wheel of course.... screw has no shoulder probably the washer was then lost. I am learning... very slowly... went to bed 4:15 this morning. I was shocked by the result after the cleaning i guess i must pay the price of the knowledge. Very painful so far and not much knowledge gained, well to my former myself i go with lightspeed but it is just not enough and they say there is no 2 x lightspeed.

What you have circled in the picture is the crown wheel and screw. The screw should have a shoulder section to keep it distanced, or a (lost) washer was used there. That is why I wash with petroleum only and IPA only, by hand. And mild ammonia only if there are brass / gilted parts. Then every other thread we read about beginners (but not only) getting fixated on on machines and commercial solutions.

Maybe the ratchet wheel is upside down. See below the PUW 61 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&PUW_61

Hi when the block is calculating the pulses it uses a thing called inhibition and if the checksum is not right it either adds or drops a pulse to automaticaly correct the calculated error , so there is the remote possibility the block circuit is faulty in its calculations. But these circuits either work or dont work they are that reliable but one should not discount the possibility. If it were me I would clean and oil the movement and re run any tests using the analyser, Not having an analyser use a analogue meter and watch the coil pulses for a regular beat or just run the watch and observe the timing.

In my opinion, mislocking would be less likely to cause a rate increase like that. I think it's more likely that the balance is naturally oscillating at a higher frequency.

But, it's dropping seconds somewhere.... When I say "stuttering", what I basically mean is, is the motion irregular in any way?

Do you have the original mainspring to measure? The reason I ask is that you've been supplied a 1.00 x .12 x 300 x 9.5 whilst ranfft says you should have a 1.00 x .11 x 260 x 9.0 So is a GR2453 more appropriate than a GR2467 if ranfft is correct?

Put a soldering gun in contact with the broken piece of stem to heat it up only and as hot as you can get it, then drop the whole thing in cold or tap water. this will crack the bond between the stem and the crown, be it glue, rust or anything else for that matter. Pentrating oil can then penetrate the cracks. If that didn't work, you are back to alum or drilling the stem out.

Hi Nucejoe A quartz watch is no different than a mechanical one apart from the fact the Battery provides the voltage/current the block interprets this, The crystal vibrates around 32,768 times a second the block divides this down to normaly one pulse a second which is output to the coil which causes the step motor to pulse once, this turns the gear train and then the hands. Some watches pulse once every 4 secs or 6 secs depending on the make. As the current drawn is in micro amps it doesnt take much to affect the module ie dirt and old oil or even the wrong oil should be 9024 and 9027. The attachment explains both the mechanical and the quartz. regards Witschi Training Course.pdf

In my experience, kids have more than enough "springs" in them already. Perhaps a kid spring removal tool might be a big seller.

In my experience, replacing either the pendant tube or crown will often make it work acceptably well again. Getting parts could be tricky.

Just make sure that the crown is of a non-ferrous metal first. Otherwise alum will attack everything.

My Stormtrooper, 6139-7100, arrived yesterday. I had planned to take it all apart for a service. I first placed it on the timegrapher and it is actually running great. So I will leave it until I get the correct inner bezel. Not exactly sure what year this was made as the caseback is not original. I believe it was made in 1975. The seller was in Venezuela and it arrived shockingly fast. Overall a great watch in great shape. I wonder how it earned the nickname "Helmet" ? Ohhh... Now I see the resemblance!

I stand corrected. 0201 075 is indeed a valid, alternate P/N for A and B barrel complete.

I have been to two meetings, the last was cancelled due to covid19. Nice people and very interesting talks. But then I enjoy anything watch and clock related. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been a member of the AHS. It's very good value in terms of the magazines which the distribute.

I have never been a member of this. I think it depends where the person lives, if you live out in the country side and transport is a problem I don't think you will get much out of it. You could go on their web site and see if they have meetings near you. I wasn't that impressed with their magazines, for me too much on the watch side. I was a member of the B H I years ago. If you are more interested in Clocks, get a membership to clock magazine UK, you will get a lot of info out of that. That is just my opinion.

I have completed the basic gear train simulation for a Hamilton Pocket Watch using Gearotic. Still need to figure out how to get a Swiss level and balance into the simulation. I also made a mistake in calling the Hour Wheel a Minute wheel, oops. Enjoy, comments appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ho my ... I love that one ...