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I had an Omega auto (forget the caliber) I bought and wore for a few months before deciding to check under the hood. It was within about 5 seconds/month, amazing timekeeping. Put it on the Witschi before servicing, had about 200 degrees of amplitude and a timing delta in 6 positions of well over 100 seconds. After service it had healthy amplitude, and a delta under 15. Never kept time as well though! Maybe 30 seconds/month (still fantastic, but it was almost "magic" before).

That was the most important part. Left it overnight running and wound up full today. Amplitude is now 306!

Ah, i have maaany many watches to replace it! That was actually a buy - restore - sell job, but must admit it was quite hard to part with!

Kid springs tools, used for taking off and taking on the springs Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

@spectre6000, you just described my wish. We have a small collection of vinyls and the player is in another room, so I'll usually working on a movement with Spotify on. The only missing component to this ideal evening is the "movement coming cleanly together." It is few and far between for me so the beer is after to calm the nerves. Guess I need to start the work with the beer open first.

Hi all. Just an update on my Cyma made Gubelin pocketwatch. I said in a previous post the balance wheel would rotate only in face down or vertically. Face up it wouldnt run. The issue was quite simple. On the balance cock with this movement, the cap jewel is set onto a washer that has a beveled edge. The washer goes on top of the regulator and is fastened with two screws. The regulator has a countersunk/beveled edge as well. I had taken apart all of this for cleaning. When i reassembled this area i failed to line up both beveled edges such that they would mate. Thus the jewel was pushed up ever so much and the balance staff pivot wasnt running against it in dial side up position. 2 things: i love my microscope! I wish all problems were this easy to remedy!

More from the penny lots. This time a Kienzle 57/03a black dial. Hopefully I have something suitable to replace the missing stem, otherwise I may need so spend more on a replacement than I spent on the watch. The seller stated that the balance was good, so I suspect it should be relatively easy to restore it to its former glory.

Thanks all. As an update, the process appears to be working after a few days -- I can definitely see into the crown now, where I couldn't before. I'm having trouble screwing the new stem into the crown, so I suspect that I need to let the alum solution work for another day or two. Interestingly, I can definitely feel the spring inside the crown pushing back when I try to screw the new stem in -- although most of the crown appears to be stainless steel, I'm wondering whether there was a plain steel component deeper into the crown that was adversely affected by the alum solution. There is some very mild discoloration on the stainless steel surface of the crown (a little blackening) that I assume will be easy to remove with some very, very gentle polishing. Finally, this experiment gave me the opportunity to explain the effect of temperature on water's saturation capacity to my two little girls. After heating my alum solution up, an amount of alum that hadn't dissolved at room temperature went into solution. I allowed this solution to cool back down overnight, and was rewarded with some nice alum crystallization on my crown the next morning. I think, the next time I need to use this alum trick, I'll take some of the advice proffered to me earlier in this tread and use a pipette only to add alum solution to the specific part of the crown that needs it! Photo attached in case anyone needs a laugh ... Cheers, Dan

I have never worn a watch, but have decided to give it a try. After watching loads of watch collection videos on u-tube. I spent some time looking at watches and ordered a Seiko 5 franken watch which is really nice, I broke the glass by standing on it, but found something the right size and fixed that (the picture is before the fix) , I have decided to start my servicing and repair efforts on Shanghai and Seagull ST 5, I have a dongfeng and seagull on its way, but fell for Favre Lebra. That arrived first so that is what I will look at. I get a Jenny tomorrow, this whole lot has cost me less than one bike. The only new one is a vostok amphibia, the rest I will learn to service. My logic here is that my wife wants us to move so I am selling other interests and watches take up less space than 19 bikes.

Balance roller jewell is missing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally got down to fixing this watch. I disassembled it completely, cleaned and oiled it. Put a new battery in and nothing happened. Took the balance off, inspected it under my microscope. Tested coil for continuity. Cleaned and polished the contact spring. Put it back together. And still it wouldn't move. Finally, I remembered JerseyMo's advice of using contact cleaner. I was skeptical at first. I use a lot of contact cleaner for electronic and electrical repairs. But I've always thought of contact cleaner as a lazy man's hack. But.... It's finally alive! Thanks Mo. 20200701_084351_001.mp4

Ahh ok, sorry, thought I was seeing something else! Yeh, you’re in quite a predicament. I presume finding a replacement barrel arbour will be difficult to say the least. Your best bet might be to keep trying to remove the broken part of the screw from the arbour whilst looking for a donor movement/suitable arbour. Maybe if you take a picture of the arbour with measurements people can check to see if they have one that matches?

Last part of this walk-through. Pallet, pallet bridge, and screw make 3 parts. This is a replacement pallet, and it has a large end-shake. I did not investigated further at the moment, as I wanted to see if it runs reliably in first place. I touched two of escape teeth with 9010. Cap jewels plate and its screw, 2 more. Balance, cock and screw consist actually of at least 10 parts, even if I haven't take them all apart. Balance jewels, end stones and springs make 6 more parts. For the occasion I bough the KIF Trior tool (largest size) which made installation significantly easier and safer. Lubrication is just 9010 under the end stone. Time to check that is running strong in all positions before moving on. For the record I got about 180° amplitude with the default lift angle. Beat error was 2.5 ms, pattern barely acceptable, and large positional error. Last are the date wheel, hour wheel, inner plate, date jumper, date ring, outer plate and its two screws. The date finger spring can be inserted conveniently and safely from outside. 9 more parts. I used HP-1300 on all arbors and contact parts. There are actually 2 last parts to fit, that's the dial screws (not pictured). It's probably a bit easier to fit them them as the very first thing. I have been counting parts to get to a total is 67 or thereabout, or 90 if we count the jewels separately. Not a small number for an economical, unsophisticated mov't. I hope that this no-pretense document can be useful somehow, thank you for reading so far.