Leaderboard

Hi The attachment below may be of use to you in the future for ID purposes. Symbols (1) watch trade marks.pdf

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Venus_130

It’s a Venus movement. I cant make out the number under the logo on the dial side, but whatever that number is should be the caliber

Hi as jdm explained not all watches exibit the sweep jumping as a low battery indicator, usually on better quality ones, the lower grade ones just either go down slowly or stop. Check the battery for the 1.55v if lower than 1.3 change it as some don't deliver the power. I have had them stop and a new battery fitted has been going a year later. but some times the watch its self is at fault being gummed up or dirty therefore the watch demands more of the battery witch fails quite quickly, canon pinion , sticky gear train , rotor bearings sticky, or dirty

No, they don't all do this. I suggest that you measure the battery before blaming it. It could be also a lose cannon pinion.

Hi and welcome to the forum I take it you are refering to the Morioka Tokei Y481F watch movement . can you post a picture of the movement front and back. Its a Ladies watch probably a 6 x 8 ligne, The number designation was used ny Pulsar, Hattori. All part of the Seiko Epson corporation.

Venus 130 or a variant. I searched for 130 on Ranfft.

Check formica/melamine/laminate products with your country furniture materials suppliers.

Thank you guys for your kindly help! A conclusion: The pallet and the escape wheel is the fault. I pick a pair of them function the best. Now the amp is 270 and positional error is getting controlled (within 15s/day)

Hello and welcome to the forum, be it a compressor or a watch the diagnostic principal is the same the watch is just a way bit smaller

Welcome, enjoy the forum.

Welcome to the forum.

Just got it back today from Chris Radek, The Timeguy. Could not me happier, thank you Chris and all here who helped. Bob C.

Specialize in limited number of calibers and brands. That way, you get good at all the technical ends n outs and a used or new scrap movement can be your material house to the last drop. A good example of this is jersymo, knows and has everything about timex.

I feel like a bit of a barbarian, when I superglue an M10 nut (other sizes will also work) to the back of some particularly gunked up, cross threaded, corroded or mauled case back, but it does work, and if you take care when removing the nut/glue with acetone, the case will be none the worse for the experience. I do have a couple of case back removal tools, but sometimes you are up against damaged notches or so much corrosion that you fear the tool may slip, or something will break. Don't try the superglue and nut trick on soft precious metals or some forms of plating, as it may not end well. Stick to stainless backs. One other obvious advantage is that you get a helluva lot of M10 nuts for £2,000