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My Tissot chronograph, which I got for a song at a local Pawn shop, has been sold as I wasn't wearing it much. It was bulky and needed a link in the bracelet to fit more comfortably. I was seriously considering building a 7750 clone from eBay parts when I chanced across this Accurist chrono. It is powered by a Landeron 248. It looks to be of a late 60's vintage, but have no idea how to date them. Coming from the UK so it will be a couple weeks. It was sold as running, which is a plus, looks like it'll need a crystal polish for sure. I absolutely ADORE the complexity of mechanical chronographs!

At the very least its going to need a crystal. Internally however it looks reasonable, without any obvious battery juice related nonsense. Filthy of course, but that's not a major issue. Not sure of the date. It came in slightly over budget (but the postage was cheap, so I may give it honorary 404 club membership).

Hmm, starting at the beginning the winding system (winding pinion, clutch) would need to be remade to work backwards. The stem would need a left hand thread so custom stem and crown. Click would need to be reversed in function, so some machining there. Barrel arbor remade with reverse hook, barrel modified (if not automatic) for reverse hook. The rest of the gear train is ok, up to the escape wheel. This would need to be inverted. The pallet fork could possibly be inverted depending on design (the guard pin needs to change sides at least), possibly remade. That should do it.

Any chance of s photo?

Alum works, stem is made of steel which disloves in alum, both alum and replacement rubber gasket are available at your material house. Good luck.

Hi Dan, just a few weeks ago, I was faced with exactly the same problem: broken stem for a Seiko 7S36-03J0 case (a Seiko 5 watch). I also had to get rid of the broken off part sitting in the crown. For me, the alum procedure worked out perfectly: mix alum-powder in water, keep warm, drop the crown in the liquid and see the stem dissolve... The process took a few days but worked out perfectly without doing any harm to the crown. Upfront, I asked myself the same question about the different materials you mentioned, but decided just to give it a try (it‘s not an omega-crown...) Cost: around 4 bucks for the alum-powder and a bit of patience. I agree, still to be managed is the task of removing the o-ring from the stem and putting it back on afterwards. I‘m just a hobbyist, so the pros around here might give more details or additional information. Hope this might help a little bit. KR Thorsten

Assuming his was a cold war MIG then the clock, if luminous, probably used radio active material to achieve the luminescence, the dust from which is VERY dangerous if inhaled. Great care needs to be used when opening luminous clocks and watches from the1960's and before.............

Nothing left but to cover the drawers, finish and install pulls.

i believe this subject has been coverd before on the forum have a look via the search at the top right. They are enclosed and not meant to be opened but replaced, But having said that many members have opened ans serviced the spring an barrel sucessfully.. just check the search for the many opinions on the subject. cheers

Hello everyone, and thanks for welcoming me to the community. I have enjoyed Mark's videos and have become a Patreon supporter to learn more. I am a watch enthusiast who lives in Sacramento, California. I've been learning how to perform common modifications on Seiko watches, and have also been working to assemble custom watches using commodity parts available on eBay. I'm very interested in learning how to regulate and perform common repairs on certain common movements. My permanent watch collection includes the following: Seiko SKX779 "Black Monster", which I have upgraded with a sapphire crystal and a hacking/handwinding NH36 movement. This was my 10th wedding anniversary present from my wife. Seiko SKX781 "Orange Monster", which I have upgraded with a sapphire crystal and a hacking/handwinding NH36 movement. Sinn 556 I Black Mother of Pearl, which was my 20th wedding anniversary present from my wife. Rolex Ref 1002 (1963), which was my 18th birthday present from my father. Beyond horology, I'm a traditional analog photographer who is passionate about "alternative" and experimental photographic techniques. Professionally, I am a recovering attorney. I am now an adjunct professor of biology at a local community college, and a biological consultant specializing in wetlands, bats, and native California wildflowers. Cheers, Dan If anyone is interested, I quite enjoy watch photography. Here are some of my favorite photos from my watch collection. This is my father's Rolex Ref. 1675 GMT-Master. He was an airline pilot, and found the GMT complication quite useful! Here is my Ref. 1002 Rolex Oyster Perpetual from 1963. The dial is quite bad, but I have a strong sentimental attachment to this watch. Here is my Sinn 556 I with black mother of pearl dial. This was my 20th wedding anniversary present from my wife. I have it on a grey toad leather strap from Aaron Bespoke in Montreal, which I love.

Hello and welcome to the forum enjoy

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

JDM, Thank you very much for being available. I will definitely look to you if I need to go that route. I didn't realize that you were (I presume) studying watchmaking? What school or mentor are you working with? My tools and materials order just came in and I am about to make an attempt at two re-pivots, and if that fails, attempt the whole shebang, just thought I would bump the thread to let you guys know I'm getting started with it. I'll be photographing and logging everything in case of success or setback. After what I've done in the past, and with your collective input, I feel my chances are good. I'll keep you updated.

Hi dan, Welcome to the forum.

Hi Dan, Welcome to the horological rabbit hole.

Hi So it has been dismantled,cleaned and oiled and still not working although the power reaches the fork? . After checking indeed that the roller and impulse pin are intact and not loose I should check that the impulse pin lies central in the fork/pallet and central in the banking pins with the power taken off the watch and the movement at rest. This will tell us if the watch is in beat or close, if it hangs to the left or right the watch is out of beat and will not run untill put in beat. If it lies central and the roller is good and the impulse jewel is good then remove the balance and the pallet/fork and re check the train power. Did you remove the mainspring for cleaning and oiling? and does the train rum free when the spring is given a turn. all points worth checking. attached is the service sheet for the 565. cheers 377_Omega 565 NewLR (3).pdf

yes Goodwill is where I bought my first mega bulk load of vintage watches. Among which was a 1964 Timex Marlin that put me on this path. Only issue I have with it is that people tend to overbid. Here is what you have to look forward too.

If you are interested how are these "crystal" cutters are used here is a recent article made by a Hungarian horologist, it is written in Hungarian but i tried it with google translate and while the translation is not 100% perfect it gives you a readable and understandable text: crystal cutter in use

Thank you, everyone! A lot of good info to sift through. Again, I suffer from migraines and single loupes trigger them after a varying times of use. The microscopes are just not in my price realm, and I tend to be as @HectorLooi mentioned "hunch up with the watch right in front of my nose."

Just got it back today from Chris Radek, The Timeguy. Could not me happier, thank you Chris and all here who helped. Bob C.

I’ve seen on some movements that the escapement jewels are modified with olive holes to reduce friction. I tried looking at the holes with a quality microscope but it’s difficult to see the inner profile.