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The strangest thing that i have found was in the Montine electronic ESA 9157, bought as a 'non runner'(which I am coincidently wearing at the moment), the seller described it as 'may work I haven't tried a new battery'. Well needless to say I took that with a pinch of salt..........On removing the 'Renata No11' battery (funny number I thought?) a new battery saw it ticking away merrily.. The old battery was on the work bench and the light caught something scratched on the top of it. I would appear that the watchmaker who last changed the battery had scratched the date on it......'16.4.82'! The number on the battery was 'funny' as it was a long extinct mercury cell, and had been in the watch for the last 38 years, without leaking!! It would also appear that the same fastidious watchmaker was also responsible for fitting the replacement, rather expensive, NSA watch strap as I found this scratched inside the clasp.... 'ZTX New 3.5.81'........ Oh and the same bracelet can still be bought........I think I did quite well for my £20 or so outlay...

Well who would have thought it. That thick gummy nastiness I keep finding in old watches actually comes from mythical technicoloured horned equines. I'll need to remember to keep it and bottle it next time.

Just try a fresh battery, chances are that it will work. If it doesn't start try some quick spinning on it axis, and pulling the stem out and in. If no luck I think the back is removable to identify and replace the module. A new strap and it will be a nice watch to wear.

I must admit that this was my reaction when I saw the sort of price that they are/were commanding on eBay, so did a bit of research. NSA stands for 'Novavit S.A.' and they were probably the most high class, prestigious Swiss watch bracelet maker in the 1960's/70's, their bracelets being fitted to Breitling, Rolex and Omega watches at the time. One seller on eBay currently has four replacement links for sale at just under £70 and another seller has a rather battered 'used' bracelet, the same as mine, with no end links and a missing clasp spring for £160!! You might just be right about the Unicorn Poo!

Please forgive my Naivety, but is that watchband for some extremely rare model? Is it made with particles of Unobtanium and painted with unicorn poo? Is it the most desired aftermarket Swiss made watchband ever? Baffling!

Just for future reference if anybody gets faced with the same problem: After doing the capacitor change, I can confirm what Andy Hull mentioned above. The covering plate needs to get removed by unscrewing this one screw and then carefully lifting the 4 clips. After that, the capacitor is free. KR Thorsten Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

Answer below. Sorry, somehow I've killed the line about seconds (fourth) wheel before posting, and in there lies the explanation. In A and B version, the center wheel bridge holds two holed jewels. These are described in my document linked above: Center wheel upper hole jewel, and Fourth wheel lower hole jewel, with their respective P/N. Check picture below. With the C version they cleverly unified these two in a single one, and the bridge got a new P/N, also pictured Incidentally, also the 6R15 got identical changes when going from B to C. So to resume: 7S26A and B: 2 - Winding reduction wheel has 2 holed jewels 2 - Center wheel has 2 holed jewels 6 - 3rd and escape have 3 each, 2 holed but only upper side are anti-shock with cap jewels. 2 - 4th (seconds) have 2 holed jewels 4 - Pallet fork have 2, it pivots on 2 more. 5 - Balance has 1, it pivots on (anti-shock) 4 more Total 21 7S26C: 2 - Winding reduction wheel has 2 holed jewels 1 - Barrel has 1 holed jewel 2 - Center wheel has 2 holed jewels, of these 1 is shared with the 4th wheel. 6 - 3rd and escape have 3 each, 2 holed but only upper side are anti-shock with cap jewels. 1 - 4th (seconds) has 1 holed jewel, 4 - Pallet fork have 2, it pivots on 2 more. 5 - Balance has 1, it pivots on (anti-shock) 4 more Total 21 There are also 23J versions, these have 2 upper cap jewels for 3rd and escape wheels on small plate.

I think my strangest find yet was underneath the dial of an old French watch, which I bought on ebay from a seller in France. The watch movement, an HP 81, dated from the 1940s. An inscription was found scratched into the underside of the dial in what looked like French. I was intrigued and asked a French colleague at work to attempt translating it. Both he and I were baffled and humoured by his translation. Some may find the translation offensive so I’ll add the photo and see what you make of it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don't have it apart in front of me, but I think the one you're missing is the seconds wheel, which goes through the center wheel, has a jewel on the same axis as the rotor/center wheel on the underside of the threaded post for the rotor. Then the 7S26C adds the jeweled barrel arbor for 21.

Do you know the movement's caliber, if not a picture helps identify it so to get you the relevent datasheet and possibly a walkthrough on repair.

did you look very very carefully at the hairspring before you started playing with your regulator pin? regulator pin is supposed to be straight not tilted. if the regulator was tilted then it's possible it twisted the hairspring in other words they hairspring is no longer flat. Not being flat isn't necessarily an issue but if it was touching the balance arms that would definitely be an issue.

the problem with chronograph sweep second hands is they have to go on really really tight.. This is because when they returned to zero there is a whole lot of force put on them. So if they are not super tight and they return the zero they tend to wander around.. this means when pushing at hand on a lot of force is required you have to support the backside otherwise you'll knock stuff out of alignment on the backside.. Then usually when putting chronograph hands-on if you want them to be in the zero position as pointed out above you usually have to hold the return to zero button firmly in place so the heart-shaped cam is locked in place at zero.. otherwise when you push the return to zero depending upon the mechanism a lot of times a return to zero but it will lift off that means we putting the hand on if you turn at all it's free to turn. the preferred for putting their hands back on especially the sweep second is a special movement holder specific for this watch. It will support the backside so nothing gets knocked out there and it will have a return to zero button I like the word simple obviously anyone who told you was simple to put a chronograph sweep second hand on has never done it before..

What you want may not exist. In the past the manufacturer only published and illustrated part list. Then the repaired had the knowledge and technique to work on it without issue, helped by the large similarly that exist between calibers. FYI we have a dedicated section where it's considered polite for new members to introduce themselves.

Today I received this beautiful Omega Genève from 1968 with blue dial. Iit was sold as not running, but with the optical condition and the ridiculously low price I just couldn't say no When I opened it a screw fell right out the movement. I noticed that it should hold one of the caseclamps in place, which was missing. I guessed that the caseclamp made its way into the train of wheels, causing the watch to stop. So I carefully shaked the watch and volià, the clamp fell out and the movement began to run. I resecured the clamp with the screw. The movement looks really dirty though, so it will definitly benefit from a service. The results on the timegrapher confirmed that, so there is still work to do I also fittet an original Omega buckle to the strap.

Just picked this up for 25.00. has a split stem and the seller thought the stem was broken but it just needed pushed back in to reconnect Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Just because it is almost new you could have done something during the service....did you take the balance out properly? Did you you check balance staff under very high magnification? Did you peg the jewels and Possibly push them out of position? Did you reattach the hairspring to the regulator stud properly that is if you removed it from the cock during service? I would agree with shimming the balance cock but this should rarely need to be done on a fairly new movement. I would put money on a cracked jewel/bent staff ( which could happen if you seated the balance wrong when you screwed it down) also you should check the pallet action make sure it snaps back and forth before putting in the balance issue could lie there too. Also pallet and or Impulse jewel could have gotten loose during cleaning, esp if you used IPA for long periods.

Definitely do not have an alarm. But you do have a mystery I'm attaching an image one of the things that bothered me with his wide is the circuit board have that nice big around area that I circled? Plus it was hard to tell from the pictures it looks like it took more of it apart then you needed to? Not sure why it came apart as far as it did so give a mystery circle see if it connects to anything in between with a spring perhaps.

I don't suppose you have a picture of the dial side showing the setting parts? Then the website below you can enter in dimensions see if anything matches or if anything's really close because then you can just modify it. Like very first one on the list Buren (BAA) Looked relatively close. Another place to look is the bestfit book Which also has a listing of balance staffs by size. https://www.balancestaffs.com/product.php?dim_A=580

I have completed the basic gear train simulation for a Hamilton Pocket Watch using Gearotic. Still need to figure out how to get a Swiss level and balance into the simulation. I also made a mistake in calling the Hour Wheel a Minute wheel, oops. Enjoy, comments appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

As we all know, our world has been deeply shaken. Lifestyles, routines and every partXa,a of our lives have been effected in some way. This is equally true for our children. Their academic and social life's have also been upended. As a father of 4 who range in age from 15 to 24 this new reality is all too acute. My youngest two are still in high school with one a freshman and one a sophomore. They have been pretty much on their own with getting their online classes up to date and completed. My daughter, who is also my youngest, has been on task the entire time, she had finished her work last week. My 17 year old son has procrastinated much of the entire time. 4 weeks ago he was in danger of flunking. So, as an incentive, I offered to get him his favorite watch which is a duplicate of mine if he finished with at least a C average in each class. In this case, it's a 1978 Timex Falcon Eye. Thankfully I had found one for an absolutely fantastic price, a steal to be honest. When it arrived, it was pristine! Tonight was his final night. The final assignments were due. He plugged away and by 9:45pm, he crossed the finish line! And as required, no class was below a C grade point average. In fact, only one was a C, the rest were comfortably within B and A averages. I'm very proud of him and it was a Thrill and an honor to present his watch to him. For fun, I had him put on his new watch but told him he was trying on my watch to see how victory feels. He was all smiles and kept saying how awesome the watch is. Then I held up mine on my wrist and put it next to his and said, yep, it's almost as cool as mine! He was like, What!? Is this mine? No way! He was so excited! Totally worth the wait. Here they are, two of the finest original 1978 Timex Falcon Eye's you'll likely ever see!

I think the distinction between Fake, Replica and Homage watches needs to be discussed here. I think it's clear the OP desires an Homage above all else.There is an entire cottage industry devoted to modding Seiko SKX series watches into homages of many popular luxury brands. They're never sold as fakes and the're highly collectible and pull down prices more than double and sometimes triple the sticker price of the original Seiko. Another homage movement I've seen are based around the Chinese made "Parnis" brand. They sell complete and parts to build "Panerai" homages. There are techniques for weathering, aging and patina-ing dials, hands and cases to look old and weathered. I think with the clear understanding of the OP's desire for this watch and his statement that it doesn't have to be a real or a fake or a Replica trying to be passed off as authentic, we should ease up on the Flambe he is receiving. Just my $.02