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And just for reference, this is what the set looked like upon arrival.

1972 '21 Jewels' by Timex - that is dial! -

^ Why do I like that?..... Bob 1972 Timex Marlin 21 Jewels

Sometimes problems 'aint what you think they are. The corona virus masks proved popular. So much so that we broke the sewing machine making some more. Or to be more exact I thought we had broken the sewing machine. The fact that it wouldn't sew seemed like a good indicator that it might be broken. Furthermore, the top thread kept breaking, which suggested the issue was with the top thread tensioner. I tried a new needle. I tried different material, always with the same result. It would sew for a bit, then PING, the thread would break. So I stripped the thing down. The old machine we have, gives you access to the tensioner, but this modern plastic monstrosity has all of the interesting parts carefully hidden from view, ostensibly to keep you from fiddling with them, but in my opinion the real reason is so that you can't see how cheaply constructed it is compared with its 1960s cousin (does this sound familiar). It has an "Automatic" thread tension setting and a manual wheel to set different tensions if "Automatic" is not working for you, but to access the gubbins that makes it all work, you need to remove *ALL* of the covers, and most of the screws from the thing, which I duly did. I fiddled with it, but could find nothing wrong, so I re-assembled it, and after another few sessions of chunka-chunka-chunka-PING as the thread broke for the umpteenth time, I stripped it down again. This time I decided to look at the bottom tensioner and the hook mechanism. That all looked fine too. I re-assembled it.... more chunka-chunka-chukna-PING .. more swearing and head scratching. I removed a small bur from the metal of the lower needle plate.. maybe that was it... but no... chunk-PING-expletive. So.. I pulled the lower case off again.. and then I noticed. The lower bobbin looked a little squint. I took it out, thinking there must be something I had missed, stuck under it, but nope. Nothing. I looked at the bobbin in my hand.. and that was when I had the forehead slapping moment. There was nothing wrong with the machine. The cheap plastic bobbin was faulty. The thing had cracked, and one side was now thicker than the other. This was enough to cause it to jam every so often against the top plate. This in turn caused the bottom tension to go off the scale, which in turn jammed up the top thread, which then stuck fast in the top tensioner, and made it look like the top tensioner was jamming. On the plus side, the machine is now fully serviced, working better than it ever has, and is spotless.

I am close to finished. I am really pleased how well the tools cleaned up. I ended up 3D printing a replacement for the broken pieces. While it may not be authentic, it certainly is utilitarian.

Daily wearer

If there are no distinguishing marks on the balance side, then you will need to look under the dials. Even if this doesn't reveal the maker's stamp, there is a chance that they can be identified from the keyless work.

Seamaster Chrono Blue Dial 1972 145.029 cal. 861 "Rolex Datejust 18k/Stainless 1995 Bob

Hi everyone! I made log of my activities with photos of my practical exercises for WR Course level 2. It's in the PDF file attached. I had some scary moments doing this. One of them was the balance cock that slid off the movement onto the table while dangling by the hairspring. Furthermore, I discovered that end stone jewels and shock springs also like to fly, causing lengthy search parties Cheers, Mark Watch Repair Course L2 v2.pdf

interesting. did you buy that from me?

I think you need to learn how to wind the springs in by hand. I started with a lot of different spring winders and now I do it all by hand. Perhaps using a spring winder for a very small watch spring. I did a video on youtube on how to size a spring. Sizing: And how to Wind by hand

Thank you very much @Nucejoe and @AndyHull for your advices, greatly appreciated ! I didn't thought of using protective googles and realized after reading you how foolish it was of me ! And yes, indeed, I'm always struggling to find the correct direction - even with the photos ! So, basically I managed to open the barrel, clean the mainspring, oil it, rewind it using my mainspring winder ... only to find out that due to the "T" ending it is impossible to correctly replace the mainspring in the barrel ... I've read another thread here where Mark recommends to do it manually - not sure I'm ready (nor able!) yet to do it, so trying to find a new barrel. But it was fun seeing I was able to go through all the steps like in the online lesson Thanks again

Hi Thats a great transformation now it looks the part and loved into the bargin great job

Nice job! What did you end up using to remove the rust?

Worth starting with a look at Fabrique d'Horlogerie Fontainemelon (FHF) movements. David Boettcher has some great information on his site under https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movements.php For instance your second pic looks like a Fontainemelon 2; and your first pic, at least in terms of distinctive bridge shapes, like what David calls a Fontainemelon 6. Do the movement sizes tie up i.e. 13''' = 29.3mm?

Hi Nice job and well done ,like most of us you find watch parts can take off at an alarming rate and disappear, When removing and fitting such parts its as well to either use rodico to hold them in place or work inside a large clear plastic bag that way is the part/parts take off they are retained in the bag. Get a large bag and cut the bottom off so you can get a hand in eiither end and carry out the required operation, then work outside the bag for normal operations,, Might save time and your knees.

I think I'm more like this bemused cat, trying to understand what unseen force is at work, moving things around, beyond my comprehension.

The top one with the micrometric regulator reminds me of a Zenith. Not sure though. The others are such common looking ebauches I can't hazard a guess. Good luck.

Fitted replacement crystals to both of these today (arrived from 'Cousins' lunchtime), currently wearing the 7S36 'Superior' .........

A closer look at my work. Hard to keep the glare off the clear top coat. Not an artist but I try

Late addition to blue dials; this is a Pulsar with Seiko 7s26 movement. Does not wind, nor does it hack, but nice looking I think.

United steel workers of America. Local 1258..Youngstown Ohio.

Powder blue dial (which doesn't really show in these pictures) with light blue lettering, so it kind of qualifies as a Blue dialled Timex. Circa 1964, and manufactured in Dundee. I must admit the mystery dial above puts this one in the shade. I don't suppose you would consider a swap? No? Thought not. There are several versions of "Timex Cinderella", and later versions have a picture of the Disney character on the dial. Omnia BG866 based late seventies pin lever with the ubiquitous for the time, offset crown. I posted this recently on the Watch of Today thread. Of the three, it is far and away the winner, despite the pitting on the plating.

Timex "mystery" dial watch. Love the midnight blue

IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “Cousteau Divers” REF 3783 G.B.

Latest arrival, this 'Limit' Swissonic ESA9158... This Avia Swissonic ESA9154 is in the post..... Latest arrival, this 'Limit' Swissonic ESA9158...

Again one of those exquisite walkthroughs with pictures second to none. Very well done Guess what I bought today? A box full of Vostok 2414 movements, in plastic containers and fully sealed ......... these have the gold-colored anti-shock springs so they are from the Soviet times, pre-1992 One just can't get enough of them; brilliant CCCP quality

Yes, and good luck finding them. Much unlike special parts for petrol engines.