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Today, I'm wearing my Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviation Sea Diver. Love this watch!

If it does it in the old case, too, then the chances are the keyless work is causing the issue. Most likely the spring on the clutch has jumped off. You will probably need to remove the dial and hands to see what is going on. Do you have any pictures?

Jiggling the trimer can't make it any worse than it currently is. I suspect the trimmer is a small value capacitor, (of the order of a few pF), but it may be a variable resistor. Either way a little bit of a clean with contact cleaner or alcohol, and a little bit of a fiddle with a screwdriver is worth a try.

Well, while on lock-down I woke up this morning with good intentions of oiling up an old Timex marlin i wear from time to time. After my recent success stripping and servicing a 6309a I figured that oiling the old "disposable" movement wouldn't be to tricky. I followed the service manual barring removal of the balance because I am still a little scared of going near hairsprings, put the dial back on and was bending the last dial foot back into place when my tool slipped and went right into the movement, snapping the pallet fork clean in half. I went from feeling pretty pleased with myself to devastated instantly. I had a donor in my toolbox minus a balance assembly. Feeling like I had no choice I set about changing the balance over and spent about 45 mins fighting with the loose end of the hairspring and wedge pin which is like threading a needle with your eyes closed, at least for a total beginner like me. After a few hours I managed to get it fitted and running well. The only thing that's stumping me now for some reason is the date wheel of all things, it just doesn't seem to be holding into place with the assembly. After the day I have had it can sit on the bench until the morning . Any techniques out there that people use gratefully received ? If nothing else it will give the more experienced a good old laugh during these sobering times. Hope you are all safe and well Thanks Dave It had once belonged to my late grandfather but wasnt exactly an heirloom as it came to me needing a set lever, a new stem and a strap.. I got it working last year and wear it

Called a crystal or four glass clock. It could be an 8 day duration and it’s a strike on a gong. Pendulum is called a girl on a swing. Watchweasol is correct in saying the case is spelter, so be very careful as this stuff breaks and its very difficult to repair. Dates around the 1900’s to about 1915. Value to sell as I see it about £1,000

Very handsome watch @Hopgoblin!

My Sanyo could use a polish.

You've prompted me into donning my vintage Timex digital As an aside, with these vintage digital watches, if you want the day and date to be correct for 2020, set the calendar on them for 1982.....

thanks for sharing, very informative.

Eagle eyes @rogart63 ...nice catch

Today I'm wearing my vintage Timex Marathon SSQ, quartz LCD. It totally looks like a watch that belongs on the island of misfit watches. It's brown, gold and homely! For me it's perfect. It's very 70's cheesy, I love it. Plus my wife said it looks like something her dad wore back in the day, I'm ok with that, lol.

Thank you @sstakoff for the moebius oil, delivered to Los Angeles address several days ago. I shall receive it at my address in Iran, before long. Much appreciate it. Best wishes.

With my Uni-T 61B I have had some success measuring both the crystal freq and the motor, but the low frequency of the motor is actually outwith the stated spec of the meter (but it does seem to work). Obviously I cannot state whether any particular meter will work for certain, but this one seems to, in the limited number of cases I have used it. This meter (and many others) are based on the DTM0660L DMM chip, so others based on that, may work. The el-cheapo $3 ones are based on other chipsets, and generally don't measure frequency. One other point, if attempting to measure the frequency of the crystal, be aware that the crystal oscillator will probably be affected to some degree by the capacitance of you meter probes, so try measuring across the crystals pins, and also between each pin and ground, as that will give you a better chance of finding a signal. Loading up the oscillator with parasitic capacitance may either affect its stability (leading to fluctuations or no measurement), or may simply stop it oscillating completely. You should also be safe to probe the other pins on the chip with a modern meter in frequency mode, so you may find signs of life on the other pins, even if you are struggling to measure the oscillator directly. Finally, if you have an oscilloscope then that will give you a much better chance of seeing what is going on, and oscilloscope probes are far less likely to interfere with things than simple multimeter leads.

Thanks. Talking through and getting great advice goes a long way. Will adjust the hs tomorrow. thanks again!

I gave the crystal polishing another shot. Same method as before, but I took a little more care. As you can see there is a slight double crater just in from to the 4 o'clock marker, which started out as a big gouge, and of course, that crack at the very bottom, which I obviously can't do much about. All in all, quite a remarkable transformation. I don't have one at the moment, but when I get some in, I'll probably eventually replace the crystal, but as far as easy polishing techniques go, this one is about as easy as it gets. Looking at the watch on my wrist, you would be hard pressed to tell the crystal isn't new, unless the defects were pointed out.

I'm still working my way through the stuff I picked up while on holiday over the Christmas period. Today we have a 1977 Timex Viscount (46562 03277) which was a health hazard when it arrived. The strap and pins went straight in the bin, and the case got a full fumigation and polish. I tried a new trick for the crystal. I put a big blob of BlueTak on the end of my cordless drill, grabbed a couple of sanding pads (available from B&Q and the like), cut off a 2" square of the "medium" and the "fine" (no idea what actual grit they are, but they looked about right). I then squashed the entire case, crystal and all down on to the blob of BlueTak, and then squished that on the end of the chuck, with the crystal facing out (without the case back). Finally, I spun the whole thing at low speed a couple of times to check that it was centred and not about to fly across the room or take my eye out. Once happy that it would stay put, I spun it up, again at low speed, and pressed the sanding pads onto the crystal, first the medium, checking till I had a nice uniform smokey appearance over the entire crystal. Then it got a clean. Then I used the fine the same way. Another clean, then finished off with some T-Cut, taking care to avoid scratching the case in the process. I repeated the process on the case back. The results were pretty impressive. I started with a crystal that I thought was almost certainly for the bin, and ended up with one that, while not quite perfect is absolutely 100% better than I expected. The case back went from completely scratched to factory fresh, without looking over polished. I will certainly give this another shot, and refine the process. The best part perhaps is that the whole process only took a couple of minutes. Way better than doing it by hand, and way less hit and miss than using the Dremel. Here is the "before" shot. Note the "interesting" brown filth on the case, and the "frosting" on the crystal, not to mention the wrecked and insanitary hair puller band. Another rescued Timex joins the 404 club.

From the picture it's a classic ceramic variable capacitor. Agreed. The construction suggests it is almost certainly a variable capacitor. One slightly off topic point. A lot of recent low cost multimeters are able to measure frequency (Hz), and I've had good success with these. My main multimeter (the fact that I have several multimeter will probably not come as a great surprise), can measure the .5, 1, 2 or 4Hz on the stepper, and the 32786 Hz of the crystal on most of the quartz watches I've tried it on. If you don't have access to a real quartz watch timing machine a multimeter with a frequency range may well be the next best thing.

Hi FLWatchguy is on the money there either the stem is too short limiting the engagement or conversley the tube is too long the effect is the same, Also consider in removing and replacing the stem the keyless work may have dieplaced.

hmmm... Sounds like the stem is too short.

It looks to me more like a total rotational angle of 340 degrees from extreme clockwise point to extreme anti-clockwise point, which equates to an amplitude of only 170 degrees. Until you get the amplitude up to 220 or higher the TG trace will be of little use, and ideally you want to see the amplitude up above 265 to 270 degrees (total rotation of 530 degrees or higher) after a full service and with a new m/s.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

This may have been addressed already, but I'll rehash just the same. Have you tried turning the trimmer? I have done that with no less than 4 vintage quartz moments that were sold as dead, but sure enough, off they went after. Simple and non invasive. Worth a shot if you haven't already tried.

Hello and welcome to the forum. read and enjoy

Hi and welcome

I definitely agree, everyone deserves respect. My post was just an attempt, perhaps a clumsy attempt, to be a bit funny. It’s interesting to see how the human mind see’s no or little complexity in the fields it has no knowledge. Perhaps a good thing or we would be too intimidated to start any new endeavors .

Welcome, Enjoy the forum.

That is almost impossible. Can be done by removing the thin washer. But it's hard to put it back again. Can maybe be done like this. https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2015/10/12/crown-revival-seiko-6105-and-62mas-crown-gasket-replacement/

Have a laugh at this.