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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/20 in all areas

  1. No oil, this is to keep the wheel down, otherwise it will ride up and the hour hand may disengage , assuming wave is the dial washer which is a 'wavy' brass ring Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    4 points
  2. 18th birthday present to myself. Speedmaster Automatic 3511.50 First swiss made watch in my collection.
    4 points
  3. Timex? Radioactive? Probably rust.
    2 points
  4. I used to make some leather straps too. But it's dusty work, and I don't have a second workspace for it, so I've pretty much stopped doing it.
    2 points
  5. Hi Chaps just picked up this as a repair job, Not a restoration client just wants all the bruises amd marks leaving as its its life story. This clock has been well traveled and as such and its advanced years isnt too bad. Got some research to do then get cracking
    1 point
  6. Hi thats quite a job and an execellent result well done, A man after my own heart if you cant find it make it I was lucky when I was made redundant a lot of the stuff was being binned and i managed to salvage a two tube version in metal. The one you have made is a cracker and does the same job brilliant
    1 point
  7. This is a suspended barrel, held only by the bridge. What looks like a screw slot on the lower end of the arbor is what's left of the hole that took a pin to hold the stopworks finger in place. The lid snaps of, pry in one of the openings. The hook is screwed onto the arbor, it will have two holes to take a spanner. Hold the square, and unscrew the hook. As the adjustable pin spanners are hard to come by, you can grasp the hook with flat pliers lined with paper tape or wrap paper (or copper even better) around the hook. Sometimes they will unscrew just with stout nickel or brass tweezers grabbing the hook; at least in wristwatches.
    1 point
  8. Looks like barrel lid is screwed on the arbour.
    1 point
  9. Hi Rob I would not mix the graphite with the oil , might work in locks etc but watches a different matter. The graphite based oils use specific base oils to stop the graphite living in suspension in the mix... Tooo riskey
    1 point
  10. The rusty metal steel parts such as the bell mount which are made from steel rod have been rolled in a barrelling machine with some ball bearings. This is very effective at removing the softer rust without affecting the steel. The steel parts are grained to match the original, un-rusted parts.
    1 point
  11. Sorry, not very regular updates. So, in order to use the unworn area of the pallets to reduce the escapement drop slightly (not that it was excessive), I’ve turned a small brass spacer which looks a little like a penny to move the pallets along by around 2mm or so. The pallet faces are also polished to a mirror finish. I do have one recent photo which is of the back plate. As it has significant scratches, I decided to re-grain the finish using 3M lapping film. This is prior to chalk brushing which gives a slightly softer finish. All of this has to be straight-grained from top to bottom, including the chalk brush action. There’s not a lot I can do about the previous hammer marks where someone has closed-down the going train fusee hole. But it’s not on display, so this is really a functional restoration.
    1 point
  12. jnash explains it perfectly. It is a dial washer which sits in between the the dial & the hour wheel.
    1 point
  13. All dodgy stuff if you ask me.
    1 point
  14. The soldering iron trick has worked for me several times. Good Luck, RMD
    1 point
  15. You cant no factory records have been found of Fahys watch case serial numbers, I would say the watch has never been owned or worn by Joseph Hooker, the listing does state that the watch has been appraised as being worth $1,650 dollars in 2012 I find that figure odd in itself why not $1,700 or $1,600, it just shows most appraisals are not worth the paper they are written on.
    1 point
  16. This doesn’t convince me. As I have said no provenance. The price convinces me it’s not what the seller is making it out to be. What the seller has said, you can copy all that off the net. To me it is just a Silver Waltham pocket watch.
    1 point
  17. Hello everybody, I realized I was so hurrying to ask the question that I did not introduced myself, sorry for that. My name is Benoît, I am 27 years old, living in Tokyo, can speak 4 languages and learning watchmaking/repair at school, therefore I reckon I will be asking more than resolving questions. よろしくお願いします!
    1 point
  18. I used a very fine knife to cut out for the buckle attachment... But a punch would be a better job, all depends on the kind of buckle you use. Dusty from sanding, cutting, shaving and burnishing. Little flecks of leather get everywhere.
    1 point
  19. Hi Nucejoe, nice to meet you. Thank you, hope this could help some Japanese brand aficionados having some trouble with Japanese language.
    1 point
  20. I am beginning to think that with this watch stuff - knowing what to do is half the battle (that and not losing any of those tiny parts ;-) Thanks so much. Pried the ring up after taking out the gasket gunk and it came up after a bit of a battle. Movement and dial and movement ring are out of the case!
    1 point
  21. To be honest I just want buy something that will do the job instead of making it. The tripod they suggested looked good at first, no doubt it is a good tripod but I think it is too big. Lowering the camera would spread the tripod legs all over the desk. My latest promising find is a Manfrotto Magic Arm. There are different versions of it and similar products by other manufacturers. It can be attached to desks, tripods or anything suitable. No need for a tripod head either.
    1 point
  22. Hi there, I just thought I'd show you this rare afrobbins roller table remover. It's pretty cool you can turn the dial at the front to select the size you need then slide the pin into position which has a hole for the pivot to fit, then slowly turn the back dial and the locking pin will slide along a tapered section of the dial and push the roller table of the balance staff.
    1 point
  23. Even with that screw missing the module should work anyway, so I suggest to try to understand why is that, before worying aboyut the screw. Attached the service sheet for you guidance. Note: if you want to do the electrical test as per document, make sure you use a low voltage ohmmeter, otherwise you will blow the coil. Also, be aware that quartz repair is not as easy as it may seem, so be advised that replacing the complete module may be the safest option, even if more expensive. FYI, we have a section on this forum where is considered polite for new members to introduce themselves. eta_959.001.pdf
    1 point
  24. I received this Vostok 24hr manual wind through the post yesterday, I quite like it even though it's strange to read the hour off! It's new old stock, 44mm, Screw down crown and was only £25 posted!! John
    1 point
  25. While I'm a fan of the WW pattern, I agree that for most work a Geneva (bar bed) pattern is OK, many many watchmakers and even clockmakers have used them to great success over the last century. Most, like easily 9 out of 10, headstocks one encounters use a hardened steel spindle running in hardened steel plain bearings. Hardened steel on hardened steel is a terrifically durable combination, if there is just a hint of oil there they are practically indestructable. And many lathes saw little actual use, so it's rare for a lathe from a quality maker would have messed up headstock bearings. What would be important to me, after the headstock, would be a tailstock that takes collets, and very importantly, an excellent cross slide with large, readable, settable micrometer thimbles on the cranks. Many older slides have tiny thimbles, that are not necessarily settable. If looking at Lorch, some of their old stuff not only had tiny thimbles, but had screws with 0.75mm pitch (as opposed to 1mm), and they were backwards in rotation from all other lathes. A fellow I worked for had one, it was his first lathe from when he was young and he loved it. I absolutely could not use it, my muscle memory just wouldn't allow me to turn the cranks correctly. Not to mention keeping track of 0.75mm per rotation! He had numerous other more modern lathes that were "normal", but man he loved that weird little Lorch. All that said Lorch is of the highest quality and their more modern stuff was vastly improved in usability. Their KD 50 model is one of the nicest watchmaker lathes ever built. Steffen Pahlow's superb Youtube channel features many different Lorch machines in his work.
    1 point
  26. Since I've already featured the wristwatch I'm wearing today, I'll highlight today's pocket watch. It's a 1913 South Bend 16s. It has gold inlaid engravings on the movement and the jewels are in gold settings. The dial is double sunk and it's in a chrome plated, salesman's case with an exhibition back. I haven't had to touch this watch since I bought it other than to polish the crystals. One of my favorites.
    1 point
  27. I always scratch and "X" into every part I touch to remind me that it cleaned it. Not just watch brands ... auto makers, tech companies, big pharma ... don't get em started.
    1 point
  28. No harm to try various solutions , penetrating oil , clean reapply and give it more time to soak. If you can get to the end of dial feel tapping on it helps push the feet out, you may end up removing parts to near full disassembly to gain access to free end of dial feet. If you got a soldering gun, try to heat the screw only, mount pointer needles on the gun to put in contact with the screw. Expansion and contraction due to heat breaks the rust loose. Rusted dial screw can be a royal pain in lower abdomen. Good luck.
    1 point
  29. So these are modern watches 'inspired' by watches of those dates?
    1 point
  30. Update - Creating the pillar plates. Once the rings were cleaned up they could be used to size the plates which fit within the rings and have a lip that catches on the underside of the ring. Turned to size then cutoff... As you can see my WW lathe was having a bad time with the cutter grabbing the piece from the three jaw and chucking it across the room doing a great deal of damage to these little brass parts. If they can't get polished out I will need to remake them later but they will work to get the case done. With the first one done it's second verse same as the first. I am still designing the central rod which will hold it all together but I will also need to cut the middle plate.
    1 point
  31. Brass runner made to support fusee pivot while I go over it with a pivot file and burnisher. I may make a carbide burnisher for working on harder pivots.
    1 point
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