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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/20 in all areas

  1. The Timex movment pdf files were compiled by the a few members of the "Vintage Timex Watch Forum" once hosted on Network 54. A great idea to 'keep em tickin' as the site admin would often say. I scanned and provided many of those manuals as away to give back to those who helped me when I first began. How much these manuals helped each other didn't really matter. Rather the benifit was the effort of finding and sharing the information and commuiincating the success and failure. Commuincation and interaction with others is the true benifit. That is what needs to be past on to the those who follow no matter what hobby or interest they have.
    2 points
  2. There is a minor problem with this statement above. I have a friend that we like to bicker over lubrication. He was taught by his grandfather who recommended three lubricants. Basically a grease light oil and heavy oil and that was it. But someone our discussion it was discovered that His grandpa was servicing watches they were expected to come back for servicing each year. The cases were not sealed up they're not like today when you service a modern automatic it's probably going to be gone for five years. It's amazing what you can do short term it's the long term that's going to be the problem. It's why I suspect were seeing it trend of changes. The quantity of oil used has increased. Then heavier viscosity lubrication's I'm assuming all designed to keep that lubrication there for at least five years. Then there is the escapement lubrication I think that the super minimalistic they're going for performance. This is why they're going minimalistic with the 9415 Because as you've noted if you have too much you have a problem.
    2 points
  3. Hello, I have just joined the forum. My name is Deborah Bell and I run a mechanical watch and clock museum with my mother, in Haltwhistle Northumberland- 'Mr George's Museum of Time'. The museum is based around a series of children's stories which my mum wrote about her father who was a watch and clock repairer in Northumberland- the 'Mr George the clockman stories'. My mum became a repairer herself and has a huge collection of watches, clocks, tools and parts so we decided to bring everything together so children could learn all about mechanical "proper" time and Mr George, and adults could look at the collection and reminisce. She still repairs both watches and clocks now and has her workshop on our museum premises! Hope to chat to a few of you on here!
    1 point
  4. The image in the link you provided showed a prepackaged watch case kit. That retailer was Theodore Kagen of New York. My case is stamped with the exact same TK logo. So it looks like this was a 3rd party thing. A Google search reveals the Theodore Kagen company was sued in 1960 for falsely selling their watch cases as gold when in fact they were base metal. They ended up losing that judgement and had to clearly state on the packaging what the metal was actually composed of. These "rebuilt" watches were never authorized by Bulova. Fairly certain this wouldn't fly in today's world, unless you're in China, lol. Fascinating.
    1 point
  5. Hi The method mentioned by Nicklesilver is the preferred method but lacking the face plate the method you propose using the lathe and centering whilst the shellac is still soft is also possible. Both methods are explained in De Carles book "practical watch repairing"
    1 point
  6. How about letting a magnet find you the hand. It's tube can be tightened, use a regular nail clipper, tighten at the tube's mid-section.
    1 point
  7. Ah wait, sorry, I forgot that you mentioned glass and not acrylic. Yeah you're going to need some diamond paste or maybe more cerium oxide...
    1 point
  8. Its odd, it looks to be related to the Citizen 3100 and its relatives http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Citizen_3100 ... but more so to the 700 series. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Citizen_0700 .. other than the fact that the balance arrangement matches neither. It also shares some similarity to the 0201 (and thus to the HMT) The 0241 has a similar balance arrangement.. and there is a Bulova version of that designated Bulova 11DP (Citizen 0241) and which Ranfft mentions as being used in Caravelle N0 (1970), so it does indeed appear to be a Citizen/Bulova/Caravell collaboration movement, but I cannot figure out which one. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Citizen_0241 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Bulova_11DP
    1 point
  9. The easiest thing to do with plates and bridges is to cement them to another larger brass plate, then center this in the faceplate. The centering can be checked with a wobble stick or optically with a scope.
    1 point
  10. That's either a small movement or a large screwdriver! Normally the hole the end of a stem locates into can be seen so a stem could be poked out that way but I'm assuming the makeup of the movement doesn't make that possible without (partial) disassembly. Plus I guess you've tried the obvious like tapping the movement stem down and letting gravity do its job. You could try putting a very small drop of superglue on the end of something suitable to adhere to the broken stem. That should give enough stiction to extricate. The trouble is unless you're careful and delicate you run a risk of smearing superglue where it doesn't belong. In which case biting the bullet on partial disasembly for access might be the best way forward.
    1 point
  11. It would be nice to see a picture looking straight down with no power in other words the balance wheel stopped. Then if you look sideways is the balance bridge parallel to the main plate? That it would be nice if you would actually just take the entire balance and bridge out flip it over and give us a picture of what the pivot looks like. While it should be impossible to break your pivots off it be nice to know or we could see that there actually they are and they look nice and shiny. If the jewels are bad often times they will nick the balance and you'll see the pivot will look rough. Or if some unknown reason the rust got in the watch then they will look dark in color or just with time sometimes they'll look dark the ends the pivots will look bad. Because right now your dial up and down is not the same and they should be.
    1 point
  12. As you're open to ideas I find it unlikely that somebody substituted a balance wheel and/or jewels that were sort of right. It's hard enough figuring out which parts are supposed to go in this watch let alone find something that's kind of right. So it really be nice to know why you're having a problem before replacing all of the components. The picture of the movement is the balance wheel moving in that picture or is it without power? Yes the pictures bothering me before I put In more text for troubleshooting await for your answer in the meantime here's another source for parts or at least a listing to figure out which you might need as soon as we figure out why you need it. Looks like the 1429 cross references back to the 1428 for the most part. Then if you click on the parts here you find out all the other things that are using that same part. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=ETE_1428
    1 point
  13. I don't think there are really "hard to obtain" service / parts PDFs, except maybe the distribution controlled ones from Omega or Rolex, and who know about real high-end horlogerie , maybe they don't even produce any, just rely on "oral tradition" and enjoy the profits. Look on Cousins or SCWF, they have most of them and if you send them (Cousins) one they don't have they will publish it. No worries on loosing info and we're here to further preserve it.
    1 point
  14. Very nice! I love American pocket watches. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. As for escapement oiling, perform your own experiments with a timegrapher to observe changes in amplitude and consistency in the trace. It's very easy to over-oil the pallet faces with 9415 - I've done it myself. I follow the BHI's lubrication guide and generally have no issues.
    1 point
  16. I have read several threads talking about using super glue for the repair watches. Whether or not I think it is the right way or the wrong way to fix something isn't my intention. I would gust like caution everyone that cyanoacrylate adhesives release vapors that can be very irritating to the eyes, damage the surfaces of some materials, as well as, negatively affecting electronic circuits, especially if allowed to set up in a confined space. The words of experience. Shane
    1 point
  17. you can "dub" nippers or diaginal cutters to do the job, but put a rod (drill shank) of the proper diameter so you don't "over crush". vin
    1 point
  18. to take out scratches on the crystol, i use "wet or dry" sand paper. 600 grit and finish with 1000. sand by hand in a circular manor. after 1000 grit, polish with tooth paste. vin
    1 point
  19. I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project.
    1 point
  20. And who says the EU is the be all and end all, like most political groups elected and non elected self interest comes first the people who they promised to work for? Who are they???????. we dont count. I agree with VWatchie. abomination is correct.
    1 point
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