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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/23/20 in all areas

  1. Ok i finally did it, not the best job but def will pass my standards. The 60 is slightly off, the weld was a bit shabby but ok. I ended up using a tool for wood burning, its does not heat up as much as a solder iron. There is a tiny chip by the 50 that occurred when removing old sub dial, kinda pisses me off the most because without that would have been dam near perfect.
    4 points
  2. It looks like a friction fit pop off back, with the seam around the center line, split across the stem. You will need to have a new single edged razor blade, preferably in a plastic holder to better handle it. Nothing thicker will do it, you would just bang it all up with a screwdriver bit or any other case back tool. Carefully push it into the gap between case back and main case then try angling the blade up to see if it will start the back coming off. You may need to do it in more than one spot to get it going. Don’t be dismayed if you break pieces off of the blade. Just throw it out and grab another one. Hope this helps. It’s just one of many methods that you will have to learn If you work on enough battery powered watches. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    3 points
  3. progress, thanks to all of you in this forum! It was a split stem, indeed, that had to be pulled out with scary force. Now to the next step - energizer 341, and see if I can get get the stem back together.
    2 points
  4. Thanks Nucejoe.just for reference I also have a similarly dialed,but differently cased seiko version.
    2 points
  5. I don't think its about the mainspring but the area of the minute recorder. So I would check everything here: - recorder spring too much tension? - both bearings (minute recorder and gear) absolutly clean, not oiled and turning freely if blown with a blower - engagement of finger to gear and gear to minute recorder calibrated correctly by the excenters?
    2 points
  6. Since I recently acquired 21 watches in various states of function and condition, I thought I'd share my technique for restoring acrylic crystals. As a warning, there are items used in this procedure which can be harmful if used improperly, so please always read the manufacturer's warnings and heed them, thank you, and enjoy. I prefer to begin with a dual sided Emory board similar to what is used in nail salons. They're flexible and conform to the curve of the crystal. The one I use comes with 2 different grits, one coarse and one fine, 400 and 600 grit respectively. I dip the Emory board in water and ensure a small puddle forms on the crystal. I begin with the coarse grit and start with a circular motion, applying steady pressure. As I sand, I rotate the watch in small increments being careful to not stay in one place too long and to maintain a circular sanding motion. I follow the natural curve of the crystal as well, unless it's a flat crystal. After a few minutes, I stop and check my progress. I wipe off the water and acrylic residue and look for any obvious, deep scratches that remain. If not, I proceed to the next step, if so, I repeat the previous steps. When I'm satisfied that the deepest scratches are gone, I thoroughly clean the crystal and wipe it dry. I now flip the Emory board to the fine side and repeat the previous procedure of circular motions. Knowing when you have done it enough is honestly an issue of feel. When you first change grits, the surface feels rough and there is resistance as you sand, but that lessens as the deeper sanding marks are made shallow by the finer grit. This process should take less time than the first step. Again I clean off the residue and thoroughly dry the crystal. If im happy the the smoothness of the crystal, I can now move on to the final polish. I use a polishing compound from my employer that works amazingly, however any glass polishing/scratch remover that contains Cerium oxide will work fine. For this step I take a cotton cloth and fold it over twice giving me 4 layers of fabric. I then dab a penny size drop of the Cerium Oxide cream onto it and then press the crystal firmly onto the cloth. I then swirl the crystal around and around in a steady, circular motion, maintaining a firm pressure as I work. I rotate the crystal every few moments and I rock and tilt the crystal following the contour of the crystal. After a couple minutes of this action, I stop and wipe away the residual cream and inspect my progress. Most times, one cycle of the Cerium oxide cream is adequate, however, if you miss a spot, repeat the process. The initial penny size drop of the cream is almost always enough. If you're happy with the results you can wipe away all the residue and enjoy your work. BTW, cerium oxide will lightly polish metals as well, similar to Brasso. This can help to remove scuffs, light scratches, Oxidation and other residues on older watches. Lastly, this entire procedure can be perform without ever removing the crystal from the case, as long as you are mindful of the case. Thank you for your time in reading this, hopefully I've enlightened you and added a new tool to your watchmaking toolbox. (The crystal used in the photos of this procedure has microscopic crazing cracks from age and heat which are deeper into the crystal and this procedure does not remove those, however, for me it looks great.)
    1 point
  7. Hi everyone. In Australia we get pretty hot and muggy weather in the summer and I did not want my oils and superluminova to degrade. So I made up storage container for the expensive oils and superluminova.I lined it with aluminum foil from a baking dish. It has a valve at the front for fumes and any needed air exchange. The great thing is the temperature stays around 10 degrees c no matter the temperature outside. It's good to protect your investment from degradation.
    1 point
  8. Hi Just for interest what is the make of the movement and its caliber number, I cannot make it out , Well done for getting this far. Has this adventure fired your enthusiasm ?
    1 point
  9. What about the Bergeon 7812 Watchmakers Quick Service Kit? It would be 35 pounds over your budget (e.g. Cousins), but there won't be any waste in there.
    1 point
  10. i hate split stem cases like this, i would suggest to avoid issues like marring as Marc said, take it to a jeweler and ask them to just remove the movement and thats it, it will cost much less, and then you could do the battery replacement yourself and re-assembling would be much easier than dis assembling.
    1 point
  11. This arrived today..as previously mentioned westclox used outsourced movements. This one a jeambrun.
    1 point
  12. Nice end result. I use a similar process finishing off with polywatch. Care is needed to not press too hard, let the abrasives do their job. If there are any deep scratches or deep micro-scratches, too much pressure will tend to make them worse, and can even become so bad as to make the crystal needing replacement (I know I have done it, especially with ladies watch sizes!!). To protect the case a use duct tape or similar which stays in place even with some wetness present.
    1 point
  13. As already stated this looks like it may well be a split stem in which case a quick note of caution..... If you use any thing to lever against the case to remove the outer part of the stem make sure you use something between the case and the lever to protect the case. It can be very easy to mar an otherwise good case if you don't, and as yours looks to be a solid gold case the risk is even higher.
    1 point
  14. Hi Thank you for the pics Looking at the stem tube this looks like a front loader with a split stem. The stem is in two halves and clip into one an other. As Gpsluvr mentioned look up split stems and you will see what we mean. The idea is that you remove the half with the crown on and the movement should lift out. Removing the stem one needs to be carefull there are various methods to remove the stem but every one of them requires a straight pull. Again look up how to do it.
    1 point
  15. Now it looks like you have one where the movement, dial and all is seated in that half of the case. If that is so, you would gently lift up the dial from the 9 area and while turning the crown slowly, see if it doesn’t come out. It will have what is called a split stem, where the stem comes apart via a slot in it. Look up split stems and you will see what I am referring to. Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  16. single edged razor blade (safety razor blade) is a good idea. tap on it with a jewlers hammer . less chance of letting blood. vin
    1 point
  17. Looking at your pics (though blurry) I would say 100% original ... 1 - no marker on the insert below 60 ... some aftermarket inserts have one but I've never seen an original insert with a marker at 60 2 - 1m, markers much thinner than 5mn markers ... on 80% of aftermarket inserts all markers have the same thickness 3 - numbers about the same thickness than 5mn markers (so larger than the 1mn markers) ... typically original IMHO I have no idea about the dimple between 75 and 80 but who cares ?
    1 point
  18. It's dark over here just finishing the day
    1 point
  19. Lazy start to the day [emoji4]
    1 point
  20. That's a nice bellmatic, I just finished a service on this wakmann alarm, put a 9 facet crystal and a groovy band with an aquarium painted on it. Check it out
    1 point
  21. I have my Bellmatic on my wrist today. I love quirky mechanical complications. Someday I'll be able to afford a minute repeater. Im still hunting for a Seiko coffin link bracelet for it.
    1 point
  22. Take the top part of the case with crystal off and post some good clear close up pics of the bottom part of the case with the movement stuck in it.
    1 point
  23. It sort of reminds me of people pay good money for a pair of ripped jeans.
    1 point
  24. Hi some all round pictures of the case would help in determining the method cheers
    1 point
  25. Why would someone want a watch to look like that?
    1 point
  26. Never worked on a Pogue but most Seiko inserts are press-fit. What I would do is to remove the bezel ring first then pop the insert off pushing from the "inside" of the bezel. Then press the new insert in using a crystal press with nylon dies and press the bezel back on. But that's only "what I would do" on "my watch" of course ... proceed as you feel it and at your own risk [emoji6] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
    1 point
  27. Wrecked. In a good way.
    1 point
  28. I take it the sub dials are for show.
    1 point
  29. Personally I would just remove the most of the goo with an 1mm driver while keeping the watch face up. Then remove the module and bezel and drop the entire case in your favorite cleaner.
    1 point
  30. Hey first of all never be afraid to ask questions even if they seem redundant, you may get the occasional "there are many other threads on this topic" from certain members but I would say 99% of the users on this forum compared to other forums will genuinely still want to help, including me. Dont waste time or money on software, get a timegrapher 1000 it can be had for about $150 and it works surprisingly well. Just note it will only be the most accurate with complete and utter silence. As far as as setting a bridge goes it takes practice, when i first started it would take me hours and several attempts to get it right, sometimes resulting in bent or broken pivots, know i can almost lay it right on with perfection. just note to never put any excess pressure on the bridge. Gently resting your finger helps to keep bridge in place but i recommend trying to do it without doing this because when you are new you tend to tense up and you can unwillingly put too much pressure on the bridge. Sometimes you can lay it right on top and just jiggle it a bit to get one or two of the wheels in. Then checking them by moving the wheels up and down (do note Spin them until all wheels are set), and by doing this it will allow the teeth of the wheel to set in the pinion of the next wheel thus lining up the pivot of the next wheel in the train. I do this with movement at eye level. Under 10x+ magnification looking from the top you can actually see the pivots in their respective jewels. Slight manipulation with a pair of tweezers can also be used to set the wheels, but dont actually grab the wheel with the tweezers just gently movie the pinion until the pivot seats. Having all the wheels lined up before laying the bridge down also helps with this. Check the pivots from the top make sure they are all in and bridge is laying flat on the main plate. If all pivots are in then use light finger pressure while placing screws in, before screwing move the center wheels make sure all wheels are spinning freely, do not take finger pressure off the bridge yet you want to screw each screw in, if its 3 screws then start with the outside screws first. DO NOT screw the screws down all the way, just until you feel light resistance. Checks the wheels spinning again while still keeping finger pressure. Now you want to turn each screw a half turn one by one then check the free spin again, at this point you can remove your finger from the bridge. NEVER screw down a plate or bridge without having finger pressure it can result in bent or broken pivots.
    1 point
  31. Timex parts? Who the heck would be crazy enough to buy Timex parts? Oh yeah, ME!
    1 point
  32. On behalf of "Watch Repair Talk" moderators, I would like to extend a warm welcome to all new members. This is a friendly place with plenty of knowledgeable people who have varying degrees of horological expertise, the great thing is they are willing to share that invaluable knowledge and help one another. To help us keep things running smoothly, I would ask all new members to read the forum rules and place their posts in the correct sections.
    1 point
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