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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/21/20 in all areas

  1. Hi Dont get disheartened, this is just one of lifes little mysteries. You do all the correct things and its still wrong. My Fly fishing is like that, do every thing right but catch fish some times, I still go back for more
    2 points
  2. It would be pointless and not professional to speculate without examining the piece in first person. Let the dealer accomplish his obligations and give the repairer a chance to correct the problem. You could even ask for a full refund but either way is not helpful to get stressed.
    2 points
  3. I've just answered my own question. These dials are also pad printed, but in this case, obviously with enamel. Furthermore, the elements are soldered together with tin (not lead) solder, using a very large soldering iron, however to repair them, you may well need to heat the entire dial as I described, in order to avoid stress cracks.
    2 points
  4. ok i think you could be over oiling the escapement, If you are using 9415 on the pallet stones there should be no need to use epilame or to have to oil the escape wheel teeth, either with 9415 or 9010 on the escapement (this has been debated many times over) you should not have to oil every 3rd tooth or any teeth for that matter, oiling the exit or entry stone or even both, and running the watch through a few cycles should disperse the oil properly, some prefer to oil one or two teeth max but I argue this is def. not needed with use of 9415. Iam more of oil the pallet stones kinda guy. After oiling the escape wheel teeth like you normally do put the escape under magnification, you should not see any oil or wetness on the teeth after a few minutes of running the watch, if you do you used too much. They should look dry. Also are you oiling the pallet pivots? Because you should not be. Also epilame is best used with 9010, 9415 is such an amazing grease, and i say grease because it technically is, it stays put on pallet stones, it liquifies with friction so it turns to oil on contact but does not spread to escape wheel teeth, this is why 9415 and epilame were formulated to prevent what you are doing from happening. if you are using 9415 on teeth and pallet stones that is almost likely your issue, esp if you oiled on top of old oil. i would re-clean the entire movement oil everything as normal except for the escape then check your results and get back to us.
    1 point
  5. The finished dial. I've grouped certain objects to make editing easier. It should for example be possible to edit the ticks round the small seconds dial, or the rosette or position that dial without disturbing the rest, with a few clicks. This is a slightly "softened" version, to more realistically emulate enamel work. The design as is would fit a 30mm blank, with 1.8mm center hole, but should be easily re-scalable to whatever size you want. PocketWatchSecondsSixDia30.100mmCentre1.79mmRound20%BlackGrey.svg
    1 point
  6. Be warned, this technique is apparently called "Prima Aprilis" I love how at about 2:48 the spring magically jumps out to the end of the tweezers
    1 point
  7. Thanks all. I've ordered a pack of 40 large hairsprings for learning. Suspect I'll need many more.
    1 point
  8. If de-soldering the old one doesn't cause issues, I would solder on the new one. Glues on metal will fail in time. The process I would use is as follows. 1) Carefully clean the metal surfaces which are going to be soldered. They need to be good clean shiny metal. Enamel obviously wont solder, so you need to be able to see the underlying substrate, and it needs to be as clean and as oxide free as possible. 000 gauge steel or copper wool, or fine grit emery paper will get you a good clean surface. 4) Carefully position the dial, using Kapton tape, per my previous post. 3) Clean off any grease, fingerprints etc with denature alcohol or acetone, any impurities will tend to boil, or caramelise, resulting in a poor finish, or a dry joint, so make sure things are well cleaned. 4) Apply flux generously to the area being soldered, it doesn't matter if any gets on the dial side, it can be cleaned off afterwards, what matters is that the finished joint is a bright clean joint and that the solder 'wets' the surfaces well. Dry joints fail and look ugly, this is what has happened to the original joint. 5) Gently warm the dial up to something close to the solder's melting point if you can, perhaps 100C would be close enough with hot air or a small heat plate. Add more flux if needs be, but not when things are too hot, as you don't want to shock the work piece. 6) Now solder the joint. Apply sufficient heat, and the solder at the same time, work quickly. The solder should flow quickly, and look bright and shiny as it flows. Electonic "flux cored" solder will work best. Using tin strip would work too, but why make life complicated for yourself. Avoid plumbers solder, it may have an acid flux core. The additional flux in the flux cored solder will also allow it to flow much more readily, and cleanly. Use just enough heat to allow the solder to flow. Too little and the joint will be brittle, too much and you risk damaging the dial. This is where practicing on the scrap dials will pay off. The soldering iron in the above video has a very generous head, this will help as the extra thermal mass will allow quick even heat transfer to a relatively broad spot. Using a fine tipped iron may be counterproductive as it may cause much more local heating, risking poor solder flow, and heat stress cracking of the enamel. 7) Allow to cool gently, do not be tempted to blow on the thing, or cool with water. 8) Don't forget to show us the results.
    1 point
  9. One more thing... flux. If you are soft soldering, use a quality solder, tin based, and flux. It sounds like most of the modern "lead free" solders for electronic work would be ideal. The dial picture above looks like it was soldered in a frying pan, and the reason it isn't bright and shiny, as well soldered joints should be, is because whoever did that job didn't use appropriate flux. Get a few of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1PCS-YOSKER-951-Rosin-Flux-Pen-DIY-PV-Solar-Cell-Panels-for-Electrical-Soldering/113759766800?hash=item1a7c9c4910:g:nAMAAOSwI3RW96Vz They are inexpensive, and make a big difference. Use the flux both for removal and for re-fitting. You can't use too much flux.. use plenty, it will boil off while it is doing its work, and any that remains can easily be cleaned off after. Don't be tempted to use plumbers flux, as it is generally acid based, and will etch away the substrate if not cleaned properly. It also generally requires a higher temperature to activate than most soft soldering fluxes, which is fine if you are banging together a few lengths of water pipe, but not the best if the item is delicate. Also once soldered, always clean off any excess flux, even if it claims to be "no clean" flux. Use ispropanol or denatured alcohol for this.
    1 point
  10. Thats better. You should be able to unscrew it with a screwdriver that is a good fit. Here is a photo of the sort of tool.
    1 point
  11. Great video, i know the paint is fired into the enamel which is great because it makes it safe to clean in an ultrasonic. I have tons of spare dials some are already cracked and unusable so i will practice with those first, i do have a heat gun with temperature variations so i will try that first, interestingly i had one dial i was cleaning in an ultrasonic and it actually made the solder come loose and the subdial came out, unfortunately this did not occur with this dial, i was considering using diamond burrs to grind of enough to release it but that is risky too, i just want to save this dial because it has tremendous value, I have seen they sell for close to $500 just by themselves. It’s a Waltham bold Arabic red 12 dial, i have only seen 4 pop up in the last 3-4 years and the lowest i seen one sell for was $267 with cracks and a chip. People will buy them and then pay 2-300 to get them restored. Which is what i was going to do but after putting the dial in an ultrasonic submerged in Polident denture cleaning solution, the results were astonishing so all i need now is to fix the subdial and i have a really nice dial.
    1 point
  12. I didn't wrote to fit a normal module, just a normal battery in the current one, that is normally done for testing, or when the rechargeable battery can't be obtained, or when the charging part is faulty. However if it doesn't work at all you should fit an equivalent module as indicated above.
    1 point
  13. I'll check if I have one - if I do I can send you one in an envelope Alex
    1 point
  14. What a mess. Ronsonol lighter fluid and a box of cotton swabs, with lots of caution. That ‘s one option. I’ve used it to do that and it also will not usually affect any of the painted parts. Other solvents will ruin the dial or crystal. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  15. Hi no luck so far except that cousins uk have movement complete for £62. you could try Esslinger in the USA or Jules Borel also of the USA.
    1 point
  16. ... and a few attempts to emulate CRT phosphor colours with a Röntgen x-ray/Germanic vibe. Want your newly invented watch brand to sound German? If in doubt, add an umlaut.
    1 point
  17. Having had a look on the web It seems most mainspring winders come with these barrels but nothing much in the way of instructions, I will have to look harder. Never having used one, always used my fingers had no problems.
    1 point
  18. Dear Friends Happy New Year. I wish you all the happiness of the world. If you have some time please upload to the YouTube channel a service video for the Orient F6922 Movement. I can not find any information (manual, video) on the internet. Have a nice day Konstantinos Tsatsos
    1 point
  19. It's a 1971 Timex model 967601 still new and never used. Also picked up a new Timex 165601, haven't looked into the date yet though. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  20. Here's what I'm getting, not sure if I should attempt to check to see if the 49 yr old battery is inside. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  21. Original Timex Q Timex just released a reissue called the Falcon eye. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  22. An early Texas Instruments LCD is winging its way to me from the fleabay penny lots. I just love the design. I couldn't make up my mind whether to paste it on Bender or Batman.
    1 point
  23. Unknown date Timex. Probably a Marlin. Looks late 60s or very early 70s. No case back, chrome has seen better days, missing watch band and pin, and evidence of rust in the works. What's not to love about it. Oh.. "The price?" you ask.. £0.99p
    1 point
  24. Cut a 5-6cm round from a credit card. On top of it place a round of 280 grip wet paper if there are deep scratches or dings. This is held on a mandrel in the rotary tool. which is much better if is hold horizontal by some support. Place a cup of water under the work and dip often. Set low speed. Better to keep the glass in the watch otherwise you risk it to fly away and chip it. Keep the watch as much as vertical as possible, Look well where the wheel is grinding. You want it to go where the scratch is, by including the watch just a little but, not just anywhere around. As you practice, you will be able to recognize when grinding in the right spot , as the white streaks (that is glass) shape differently on a scratch. Replace papers as needed, like once or twice, it will be difficult to tell because the glass will be very hazed, but try your best. When sure all is gone switch to 600 grid and polish where you worked before, again no need to go all around. Glass will be still hazed, but less. Next, do not waste time with finer paper, use an hard felt wheel, 50 x 15mm, and cheap oil diamond paste. This time you will be working with the outer wall, not the face of the wheel like before. For quick work you can use a single grade like 20, finer than that does not make much of a difference. The way you do it is to place a little paste toward you, and draw from that gradually with the wheel. Clean well with dish detergent. Very likely you will see more defects, in which case you will have to go back to wet paper. It takes practice to do all the above right but in my experience the paper/paste combo is the faster and most effective method. but after you mastered all the steps you can bring a terrible glass to perfection in 45-60 minutes.
    1 point
  25. Not sure if this is Dundee or Taiwan, but it looks fairly well preserved. The seller claims it "runs slow".
    1 point
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