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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/20 in all areas

  1. It's school holidays where I live and I have 2 sons, one 15 and the other 12 turning 13. The older one has 2 of his friends sleeping over tonight and my younger son has 1 friend sleeping over, so I currently have 3, 15 year olds and 2, 12 year olds high on sugar running around the house between the games room and their bedrooms. Not even going to attempt to do any work tonight, think I will just go get myself a nice malt whiskey and hide upstairs with headphones on. It's probably the safest thing I can do.
    4 points
  2. Beginners often ask about where to find this or that crystal, as it happens replacing is cheap and easy as long they are just flat round ones. But the crystal may not be found as generic, or can be expensive, or hard to find. So good old polishing is needed. Here again my technique key points: Crystal mounted on case, that will make it so much easier and safe to handle. Caseback removed, check below why. Jeweller's motor or other rotary tool with a fixed stand. You really want a screen like a carton box. Plastic roundel from a credit card as big as its size allows. 600 grit wet paper. No other grit is needed, as it will lose abrasiveness already after 20 seconds of use and become comparable to finer grades. Try to got directly over the deepest scratches, but without insisting too long (as in 5 seconds max) so to not dig valleys. Find the right compromise regarding the work angle, going flatly is good, but isn't even reasonable to try to sand the entire surface even. Look at the white streaks from inside the glass while working. You will see if you're getting right at the scratch or nick because if so the defect will show up in contrast Be patient with the paper stage. After a while it becomes hard to see if all scratches are gone, but you must remove them all before going to the next step. You should have made a mental note or drawing of where the defects are, rinse it up and observe at different angles. In difficult cases you may need to replace paper once or twice. Crystal will look now very foggy, that is normal Once happy refit caseback and crown, or rodico in the tube. The diamond paste is much more messy and you don't want that inside the case. Mount an hard felt wheel like 7 or even 10 cm dia, 2cm thick, place 1 cm of diamond paste (No. 10 or 14 good, but others work too) on the section toward you while keeping the crystal horizontal. Let the wheel grab the compound one bit a time, keep well pressed up and go over until all paste is used and you can present the entire surface to the wheel, rotate the watch and collect the past on the other side, place it on the crystal again on the other side. You can't do more than 30 - 40 seconds of work before adding fresh paste. Usually I do 4 or 5 passes like that. When working with paste is almost impossible to see the result with cleaning up. Clean with dishwasher detergent, dry it and observe well. Very likely you will notice some small defects, up to you if you want to go back to paper, concentrating on the spot only. Final polishing can be done switching to another wheel and finer paste, no less that 10 as these have no practical effect. Cerium oxide is another option but I didn't try it extensively so far. Below what I did today in about 20 minutes. The central scratch was quite deep. No final polishing or cleaning yet. After:
    3 points
  3. This one just showed up (actually had two watches I’ve been waiting a month on, from different sources, show up on the same day!) so it’s getting my wrist. A little too classy with the nice alligator and leather lined strap for wearing with a hoodie and jeans, I’ll have to change before I go out lol! I love this watch though, the gold is in really good shape for the most part and the dial is immaculate. Just serviced, too. Hard to beat for 150 bucks! I haven’t had the chance to figure out how to set the alarm yet but I’m looking forward to hearing it. (no, my wrist isn’t trying to eat that strap, I must have held it at an awkward angle or something it’s actually too loose right now!)
    3 points
  4. I picked this little Russian up and was enamored by the dial. When it arrived I discovered it had the stout Vostok 2209 movement. I found it was a very clean movement and only needed to be adjust for timing just a bit. The dial that had my attention looked to be silver plated copper with a rather dirty looking patina. The dial isn't engraved as I had hoped, but was stamped with the pattern formed during that process. I wanted to make that pattern pop so I painted the entire dial flat black and used thinner to remove paint only from the top surfaces. Was a bit tricky to accomplish but I think it came out great. Next I turned my attention to the hands. Somene had put a shiny black varnish on the hands as contrast, no lume was present. So I cleaned that of and since I didn't have any white paint, I used liquid white out. I know this is probably blasphemous, but it's a totally temporary solution until I get some lume I like. Placing the hands back on was a bit tricky as the fit was incredibly tight and tough to accomplish with my huge sausage fingers. I have a black leather strap on order for it. Very pleased with the results. Thank you for reading this.
    3 points
  5. For someone who is not experienced this sort of repair could be a nightmare. Never ever use superglue, use the proper shellac which allows adjustment, super glue will not and you could end up breaking the pallet jewel or bending the pallets. You need the correct size pallet stone, you have to have the correct position of the jewel for the whole escapement to work.
    2 points
  6. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Eterna_1429U Eterna caliber 1429U is engraved right under the wheel ( balance). High grade movement patented by Eterna.
    2 points
  7. The movement reference is usually found under the balance (circled in red). The longer numbers (not always present) here circled in yellow is the serial number. Anilv
    2 points
  8. Hi all, I recently purchased a 1979 Bulova Super Seville (ETA 2834) that needs a bit of work, with the hope of being able to do some of it myself. Watch repair/upgrades look so easy on YouTube, but I am quickly learning I am not adept at it (I removed the stem to clean the crown and watch case, and on reinserting the stem, the movement became stuck in the calendar position and I do not have the confidence to fix it myself) I have posted two posts looking for advice on finding parts for this watch (1) (2), but so far have had little response. I am hoping to upgrade the crystal to sapphire with a cyclops, and change the bezel to a new upgraded on. The issue I am running into is sizing. I have read that the Bulova can use Rolex parts, but there is inconsistency with the sizes of parts I can find online. The only post I can find online with measurements of the Bulova has the crystal at 29.2mm/30.2mm. Googling seems to suggest that a Rolex Datejust crystal is 29.5mm/30.5mm. Would 0.3mm difference likely cause fitment issue or is it within tolerances? Similar story to above with the bezel. This link suggests that the inner diameter of the Bulova is 30.2mm, yet Rolex bezels seem to be 30.4mm. Would that 0.2mm cause a loose fit? I've seen online that there are bezel resizing tools - are these commonplace? My hope is that purchasing a crystal and bezel will reduce the overall cost and potentially guarantee the quality. But equally, I do not want to purchase parts only to discover they do not fit. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
    1 point
  9. It's normal the train will be more free without the 4th wheel, that's the 2 out of the 5 wheels in the train removed, keeping in mind there's a roughly 7.5x reduction in torque from one to the next. Pivot does look ok.
    1 point
  10. The pivot doesn't look broken. Maybe worn. The arbor (axle on the other side of the wheel) looks a bit rough. Dirty or corroded? That would create drag.
    1 point
  11. Hi, it looks like the machine is out of sync , instructions on how to fix will be on the manual if I recall which is online . Have done this a few times , involves taking off the cover and changing the arm location to hit switches that lift and drop. One thing to think about is how did it happen. This can happen if the arm doesn't high enough or got caught, this could mean it needs hydraulic fluid and could mean a leak.. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. That is German and it’s an 8 day duration. The balance staffs on these clocks normally wear and the tips become like a blunt pencil, so they need to be pointed, so you need a lathe to do this and re-point using a stone, I used a small arcanses stone to do this with oil. Also check the cups as these can also wear, if so they need to be smoothed out by means of a countersink.
    1 point
  13. My apologies to your work shop. Colloquialisms vary in the English speaking world..no offense was intended. Thankfully scotch is the universal language.
    1 point
  14. you need to wear it more!
    1 point
  15. Definitely one to call in the clock big gun contributors to ... ...however whilst eating my lunchtime sandwich I thought I'd spend a few minutes looking around and came across this which certainly looks like your case and indicates a thermometer would have once been present: https://www.antiquesnavigator.com/d-1201283/antique-victorian-deskmantel-clock-barometer-thermometer-good-working-order.html. Of course, like yours, no clue on a maker but then I thought I'd take the barometer face design as an angle because that lettering and spacing is pretty distinctive and came across: https://www.tooveys.com/lots/266080/a-late-victorian-aneroid-barometer-with-carved-oak-circular-surround/ . Your pic is a bit fuzzy but the similarity is obviously there with this one ... and interestingly it has "Guaranteed English Make" on it. Now of course whoever put your mantel barometer-clock together originally might have mixed English barometer with European/German clock but if in the unlikely event our forum's big guns are stumped then a search along the lines of victorian english mantel clock movement might be worth a go.
    1 point
  16. It takes time, when i first started my hands would shake, part of that is because when your are new at it you are concentrating too hard on not loosing a screw or screwing up hairspring etc you dont even realize your not breathing right or even at all, depriving yourself of carbon dioxide which makes you feel nervous. Next thing you know your gripping screws to hard and pinging them across the room, Over time you will gain confidence, learn to relax, and not worry too much and then your hands and fingers will be steady as a rock. Breathing properly helps as well as feeling relaxed, watchmaking should not be practiced under duress. But in time you will actually be able to use it to manage your stress and it will actually start to help you relax even when you are already stressed because you will get into that mind set before starting to work. Kinda like some people make model airplanes to relief stress. Iam a very impatient person with a hot temper, but Iam a totally different person with a pair of tweezers in my hand. That’s why my wife doesn’t complain i spend so much time on the hobby lol.
    1 point
  17. Cheers guys. Seems I am trying to run before I can walk. I shall buy the part. But thanks for all the good advice. Gary
    1 point
  18. The simple answer is no. Best to try and find a replacement.
    1 point
  19. I will do when I get to it. It’ll mean taking it off and dismantling it first and I’m working during the day at my new job. I’m now an apprentice saddler! At 54! Working in a proper old school type workshop
    1 point
  20. Hi Gary A no brainer buy the new one. Without the proper equiptment and appropriate skill levels you are entering a minefield after a week you would be banging your head on the bench,
    1 point
  21. I know this is a reply to a very old post of mine but just for the record, I think I've finally diagnosed the ETA 2832 day wheel advance issue. @jdm gave the best clue back on 30 July 2019 with the day/date jumper wheel. Having had the watch back again from my stepfather for a different issue, I compared photos I took back in October 2018 when I first disassembled the watch with a new photo. I have included an arrowed photo that clearly shows that a finger is missing from the day/date driving wheel (part 2555.1). As it happens I can still obtain a replacement part that's not been restricted by the mighty Swatch. Feeling optimistic!
    1 point
  22. If there is any kind of loctite or adhesive on the threads of the stem, just heat it up with a lighter or oil lamp, it will come right off. Just be careful not to put the flame too close and cause any unwanted damage.
    1 point
  23. Lord have mercy...an attractive vostok?
    1 point
  24. Very nice. I have a few russians..
    1 point
  25. According to Dr ranfft Mainspring 1.10*11.0*0.11 mm .
    1 point
  26. As long as you haven't damaged/broken anything you're fine (for now). The correct way was to: remove the case back > remove the crown and stem > try to screw in the 2/3 screws on the edge of the movement and then simply rotate the movement slightly until the screws fit into those specially made gaps. this way the movement will come out without forcing it. Hope this helps. I think the watch is from the 40s...
    1 point
  27. I mount the stem on a stem vice and unscrew, The problem you may face is when the crown dose not want to come out peacefully, normally if glue is previously used, rust ....so on, the solutions are: Soaking in aceton , use of rust killer, penetrating oil, heat ......so on, is to be used accordingly.
    1 point
  28. Thats awesome. I never really got into the pocket watch but I can totally see the attraction. I think thee is so much more out there in terms of the pocket watch. Esp older stuff. They are probably easier to work on as well. Maybe......I totally need another hobby. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  29. most times it looks even more messy than this -
    1 point
  30. thoroughly bathed in flea and tick shampoo
    1 point
  31. Timex parts? Who the heck would be crazy enough to buy Timex parts? Oh yeah, ME!
    1 point
  32. Those "Dancing Hand" Seikos are so quirky and cool! Yours looks great @paulbravery!
    1 point
  33. Along with my grandfather's Timex, this Waltham (provided by my loving wife and daughter) holds a special and life changing place in my heart. Hopefully I am only one in a long line of the custodians (including my grandson) to care for these special pieces, as well as, the rest of my collection. He sits on my lap and asks "You fixen bem Pop?" I told him if I don't get to some he can get to them for me. I hope he does.
    1 point
  34. i'll explain myself. i bought quite a few. a few ran and i fixed a few. the mvt., is a crap. the wrist watch cases are a thing of art. vin
    1 point
  35. A lazy Sunday with my Oris.
    1 point
  36. nice job ! is thre a quarts mvt. than can be fit into an accutron, space view watch case .? vin
    1 point
  37. Now I just need to shorten the stem and order a crystal. A flat one will fit but I'm thinking a low dome will look better.
    1 point
  38. Poor lubrication can stop a watch. Would need dismantling and inspecting to say if anything needs more work other than lubrication. Perfectly fine running watches can produce these kinds of traces at very low amplitudes. Beat error and amplitude reading mean nothing with a trace like that.
    1 point
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