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I picked this vintage Timex Marlin up from a pawn shop for $10. It began ticking as soon as I wound it up which is always a good sign. The metallic brown dial and hidden lug case caught my eye, but the Crystal was quite rough, thankfully it wasn't cracked. Sadly it's wearing one of those atrocious expansion bracelets, so that will be ditched ASAP! This was my first time decoding the dial numbers, very useful information there. After a thorough sanding and polish the Crystal looks great! According to the catalog page, it looks like it originally came with a mesh band, I'll have to look for one.

The other calendar. A Raketa, technically I'm younger whilst wearing this A tricky one to take a pic of as the dial is quite reflective.

Made a click spring by hand. And made a video with all the issues I also had. Not a machinist but getting better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ooooooo! Nice!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I find using an EtaChron removal tool the safest way to remove the stud, as it doesn't have any downward pressure, and removes the risk of slipping with whatever you are trying to pry the stud out with, also it takes away the risk of bending/snapping the stud carrier. All the pressure is sideways using the EtaChron tool. I made my own, which in essence looks like a 3 to 4 mm screwdriver head with a slot in it. As already mentioned, replacing the stud is a lot harder. Do this by having the balance fixed into the main plate for stability, with no other parts fitted

From the 4th and escape wheel we can see that this is an 18,000 BPH watch. What do you mean when you say you changed the balance spring? Just the spring? They are not interchangeable, they are matched to a given balance. If you are running 30 mins/day fast there is something very wrong, that would be difficult to correct even with the biggest timing washers installed on every balance screw.

This isn't a forum for advising on the buying or selling of watches and as a result this post is likely to get moderated! We are a friendly bunch though so I can tell you that the model of Tag is the WV211ABA0787; there's a video of it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqV46uTTtb0. Your pics seem to show a genuine Tag but you're right about that crown! If you google image WV211ABA0787 I doubt you'll find this peculiarity so it would make sense to query what happened to the original!

Yes, individuals can contact any US Seiko dealer just to get parts, however it is up to the dealer as to if they want to sell the parts, and unless they have a watchmaker in house I doubt they will. Myself, I sell only to other local watchmakers when they are in a fix and cant get them any where else or need technical help.

Not exclusively, no, but this was one of their major production sites until 1993. If the watch says Great Britain, or made in Scotland or Made in the UK, or UK Time Corporation, then it was made by UK Time Corporation (a division of US Time Corporation, the parent company of Timex) who set up in Dundee in the late 1950s, and also produced other items (the Sinclair ZX and Spectrum computers for example) at their Dundee site. During this time period, Timex also produced or used dials, mechanisms and so forth, made in France, Germany, England and even occasionally Switzerland. The majority of Timex watches for the European market were made in Dundee, but not all. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timex_Group https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timex_strike Nowadays, like most volume producers, they manufacture mainly in the far east/China.

Chemical recation between markers and dial? Is it a plated dial? Send an email to Zenith and tell them that you are a long term customer but are dissapointed; can you help? etc.

the tools used to push the plugs In/out of cylinders.

I pulled this off of the internet: An India Stone is made from the man-made abrasive aluminum oxide. The term India Stone is a trade name for Norton's Aluminum Oxide sharpening stones. Norton's India stones are orange, tan or brown in color. This distinguishes them from Norton's Crystolon (silicon carbide) Stones which are gray in color.

Today it's the Benrus Citation electronic watch. I recently pulled this apart to clean it. It had a very tall battery in it and the hatch wasn't sealing so moisture was getting in and everything was beginning to stall. Next strap I buy, will be a replacement for this ugly thing.

Work on those reflections!

I do very little with a lot of expensive tools. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

excellent work. the black dialed US Time models were oftened listed on many "Grial Lists" of the old Timex watch fourm. Did you add that seconds hand? I think it shoould be tear drop at the end and not triangle. No matter I often change the sweeps anyway myself. and here is an example I just finisned today. 1970 Mercury all NOS parts but, I used a black seconds hand instead of gold toned. I think on this dial it pops out better.

Hearsay and misinformation is why I replied to that video. If you are going to present yourself as someone with knowledge or a level of expertise you better have your facts straight. Well that is unless you are running for political office. Peace and happiness!

Brigada Tourbillon today.

I feel like a bit of a barbarian, when I superglue an M10 nut (other sizes will also work) to the back of some particularly gunked up, cross threaded, corroded or mauled case back, but it does work, and if you take care when removing the nut/glue with acetone, the case will be none the worse for the experience. I do have a couple of case back removal tools, but sometimes you are up against damaged notches or so much corrosion that you fear the tool may slip, or something will break. Don't try the superglue and nut trick on soft precious metals or some forms of plating, as it may not end well. Stick to stainless backs. One other obvious advantage is that you get a helluva lot of M10 nuts for £2,000