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Everithing Worked by CNC machine, eta 2825/2, sandwich Dial painting custom, strap hand made, Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1A utilizzando Tapatalk

My mobile repair kit and some thoughts on watchmaking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi Well we learn something every day. Its a "pig nose nut" I have undone many of these like Marc with a home made tool, Mine was a screw driver ground and filed for the purpose . As Marc mentioned use old dividers and they must be old the new ones have only a stud point not much metal to play with.

It's called a "pig nose" nut. the typical kind of tool for these is like a screw driver blade with the middle ground out. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EJD1CCY/ref=psdc_1939295031_t1_B07H34XNRM I have made my own for watch work by adapting an old pair of dividers from an old draftsmans drawing set. I have simply replaced the pointed pins with straight pins.

Not every maker puts their ID under the balance wheel so, yes, take the dial off to give a picture of the dial side (and to include keyless works). Also a picture of the dial too if there is a brand on there as that might give a steer. Another sharper pic of the movement would be good too. Your original above is quite fuzzy on enlarging.

I apologize, but an error has slipped into the assembly sequence of pictures. For detailed info please see the following post: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/12634-eta-calibre-2472-service-walkthrough/?tab=comments#comment-115897 When I first started out trying to service and repair watches I took a picture of every step, and I really needed those pictures as I didn’t have the knowledge to deduct where the parts should go, how they worked, and how they interacted. Now that I’ve gained some experience, I no longer need all those pictures, but I still need some pictures. For example, it’s very convenient to have pictures of the train of wheels or certain parts of a date complication, and so on. Anyway, I really enjoy taking these pictures as I go and I organize them and keep them on my OneDrive for future use. For this project, servicing my brother’s Atira Plana housing an ETA 2472, I felt it would be fun, interesting and perhaps even useful not only to take the pictures but to edit the pictures adding visual and textual instructions. These pictures are made for my personal use and are not intended as a tutorial or to tell other people how to service an ETA 2472. The pictures simply document how I went about it. Nevertheless, I guess others may find my work useful so I’m happy to share it. There are many ways to service a watch and I’m still learning. That said, I do follow the practices taught on watchrepairlessons.com and they work very well for me! Here are links to my other service walkthroughs here on WRT: Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough ETA cal. 2824-2 (17 jewels) disassembly/assembly Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough ETA Calibre 2472 Disassembly (132 pictures) ETA Calibre 2472 Assembly (131 pictures)

Rogart: Thanks, but I am in the U.S. I found the assortment on Cousins and ordered it. Hopefully it will include the right spring.

Have a bunch of Vostok movements if you need a spring . But where are you?

An old pair of tweezers ground down to fit the holes will do a good job.

Cousins do a selection of shock springs and normally these are included.

its a spanner screw, be shure to know which direction to turn it. vin

Wow. An outstanding restoration of a valuable piece of history, congrats.

The pile of Slava automatic parts arrived, and I had a quick rummage through them last night. I started with that green pile of snot on the right, and after a lot of cleaning and a small amount of brute force, I extracted the mechanism from the case. It was held in by a stem that was rusted solidly in place. Once extracted, it got torn down. I discarded the dial into my scrap pile for the time being, it is a complete mess. I then cleaned and partially re-assembled the mechanism, to the point where it is all ticking away nicely, but still dialless. The only part other than the dial and stem that needed replacing was the day disk, but there were a couple of clean examples in with the rest of the spares. It is now running on the bench, as is the mechanism with the red hands next to the cardboard box in the picture above. That case needed a 322 crystal (which I had) and a stem (which I do not have). So, I'll need to source couple of stems, and do a little more work, and I should have two complete working dual barreled automatics. With a little more part swapping, I may even be able to get one or perhaps at a pinch two more going, using the remaining stuff and parts from another donor in my spares pile, but I may be short of some keyless work bits. I'll keep you all posted with my progress. I did some damage though. While attempting to remove the dial, I had the "green gunker" movement in a movement holder and it kept popping out. I then grabbed it between my thumb and forefinger to get a better grip. Thinking to myself "I had better be really careful here, or I'll stab myself in the thumb with this screwdriver", I then proceeded to stab myself violently in the thumb with the screwdriver. Much profanity and not a little blood later I passed my wife with my thumb in my mouth. "What are you doing" I was asked. I refrained from replying "Nothing dear, just bleeding to death", as I headed off to grab the Dettol and the Elastoplast. So today I have a throbbing left thumb with an interesting blue tattoo mark. Sometimes I wonder if this game is too dangerous and perhaps I should take up something safer. Base jumping perhaps.

Impressive..

Just to report back; Ordered a sapphire 29.4mm crystal and pressed it (with my hand-press), using the gasket out of the new case, into the numbered case without any issue. The movement has been fully repaired & restored, dynamic poising of the balance and the case is now complete, original and in very nice condition. According to all the information I can find of the 104x Poljot "Mir"s made (number of individuals who visited the MIR during its lifespan between 1986 - 2001), this the 3rd known (the other two known cases are 035-104 & 070-104). It has never been featured in any catalogue. I'm pleased with the results and thanks for the help

Citizen new master. 21 jewel homer movement.

If you want to transfer the HS, then that is exactly what you do, but the original reading was to high a beat error to have the stud in exactly the same position on the new balance, so you need to work out where to fit the HS in relation to reduce that beat error. When the balance and HS is fitted, the impulse jewel should be bang in the middle of the banking pins. If you look sideways to the movement and line up the banking pins you will see the impulse jewel off to one side, then you can work out which way to turn the hairspring on the new balance staff to get the impulse jewel in the correct position and reduce that beat error. Also when the HS is fitted to the other balance with less end-shake, check that the HS bounces ever so slightly between the pin and the boot. Have you demagnetised the whole movement, not just the HS?

Hi Th "T" was used by Tissot, what is required is the makers mark and the caliber number to enable the members to Identify the watch and also put you on track for finding the parts required.

You would think all that pot metal would silence it! Promise me you wont wear it to the airport.

We are just the other side of Perth, so not too far away. The 404 is inspired by 404 errors (a geeky reference, to web servers, specifically 404 not found). I thought it a suitably low number to save me from going bankrupt immediately, although there is the obvious risk that since the price point is low, there is likely to be something seriously wrong, or failing that, I'll be tempted to buy a whole bunch, and I'm pretty sure my wife would object if I start filling the house with more "junk". Well at least they don't take up much space.

Good points, Bob. I did an awful lot of reading before buying my lubricants and cut corners where I thought I could. I bought Jisma 124 ($44.50) in place of 9501 ($72) for the canon pinion. And, with shelf life and other factors in mind, I bought HP1300 in place of D5. Less money for a much smaller quantity, but twice the shelf life. One of the books I've read, "Amateur Watchmaking" by Per Torphammar suggests the hobbyist only needs 9010, D5 and 8300. "...one "high-speed low-load oil" and one "low-speed high-load" oil, plus one grease for the barrel walls."