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Hello guys. This is my last project – Seiko 6139-6010 aka Bruce Lee. Watch is from ‘69and it is based on the 6139A movement. Nice shot for the 50th Seiko anniversary of first automatic chronograph development. So please see the pictures below from all restoration proces. It took me 3-4 evenings. The watch came to me as non runner. Crystal was scratchy with many chips. Dial was dirty and dusty with signs of water damages. Hands lost their lume. Day calendar was loosen and didn’t work properly. Movement was complete but very dirty and dry – there weren’t any residues of old oil in the jewels. Somewhere were signs of water flood. I dissasembled movement and I gave it a bath in ultrasonic cleaner then i’ve assembled and oiled movement. Star disk od date wheel was repaird with small amouth of resin glue. Movement had tend to stop sometimes. Inspection showed that the tiny chip on the bottom pivot of the escape wheel. It was hard to see it. After replacment movement ran as a champ. I polished the hands cause there was rust and gave them new lume. Dial was cleaned. I didn’t touch the lume on the hours indexes. I was affraid to screw up it. I think now it is quite good despite the fact that the lume does not glow. Orginal crystal was polished but I decide that in the future I will replace it. Case and caseback got some polish works only with polishing paste, not too much cause I didn’t want to loose the sharpnes of orginal edges – as usual I did it. Bracelet was matted with abrasive wool. Everything was mix up and combined and there is the result. After measurments on timegrapher and adjustment it is a nice timekeeper. An amplitude satisfy me as well. Now I am enjoy to wear it. Please let me know what do you think of this restoration project and about my works on it. I appreciate your comment and your spend time. Cheers folks VID_20191016_170551.mp4 VID_20191017_195141.mp4

It's possible you're being over sensitive. There was no problem with your post at all - you asked a question and you seemed to be getting some help from another member. But it was turning into a sales post and we prefer people to do this either off the forum or via private messaging. If this was not clear them please accept our apologies but please also understand why we dont want sales to be public on the forum it's been a rule here since the start several years ago and we have always maintained that rule. Best wishes Mark Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I'm backing up what jdm has pointed out. Keep selling away from this forum, if not I will lock this thread. Thanks jdm for pointing this out.

Hello Hope this helps. Some items maybe subject to duty depending of your country of residency. From Otto Frei www.ofrei.com - OFREI-CASE11 41M Case Domed Sapphire Glass Fits Eta 6497-1& 6498-1 - DIAL-6498-LUM24HR Dial 6498 Black 24Hr W/Wht Lum 36.5M - HAN-7199 Swiss White Newlite 6-8 Hour Luminous Silver w/White 115/200 16x11 - HAN-6977 Silver W/Wht Small Sec Hand 0.27M X 5.0 - B405W-6-20R 20Mm Pilot Watch Strap D.Brn Gen.Leather Strap W/ Wht Stitch - WM-6.95 Stem Ebauches #401 For ETA 6498-1 (401/1571) - FB-7874 Swiss Made 1.5Mm Dia. Df Spring Bar 20Mm From Master of Time, Bienne, Switzerland (found on Ebay) ETA Movement Unitas 6498-1 decorated blue screw Côtes de Genėve From Perrin www.perrinwatchparts.com ST-7879-18W Stainless Steel butterfly with button release deployment Note: the above item can be ordered from Otto Frei as MSA 51.010-18 Push Button Deployment Buckle for Leather Strap 18 mm at Buckle End

Good collets cost a lot for a reason, they're guaranteed to hold a certain tolerance. That's given that they're used in a for all intents and purposes "perfect" spindle. If you can't fit the collets from the same maker in their spindle that's a big warning for me. Willy nilly opening up the spindle to accept the collets seems really sketchy, it should be ground, but if soft enough (another warning) feasibly bored. But there's a key in there, so that has to come out or be erased... I think for many just learning turning such a machine could be ok, but when hunting down microns on serious work you need a darn perfect spindle and near perfect collets. They don't come cheap, even secondhand.

Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order) Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order) Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch. Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies. While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”. For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples! A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video. Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive. Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication. So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!

An excellent book to look out for that goes into great detail on the repair and restoration of carriage clocks is "The Carriage Clock: A Repair and Restoration Manual" by Laurie Penman it is a comprehensive book on the subject and can be picked up quite cheap on Ebay.

Actually that can't be done because there is a no sales policy here. Use PM or email for that.

Hello Finished building a pilots watch. The design idea isn't mine as I got it from another forum. I upgraded the movement and that's about the only deviation from the original idea.

Just think what I could do with FOUR CENTS!

It's hard to get a focused side shot. It looks level to me. Though, the focusing may make it appear otherwise. I won't have time to work on this again until later next week. I have a microscope coming and hoping it will help. Thank you all. d side shot, below. Looks flat to me.

The cheapest brand new version of this watch that I can find on ebay today, is a remarkable £6.11 - with free shipping in the UK. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/001Classic-Automatic-Auto-Mechanical-Wristwatch-Black-Belt-Silver-Shell-wX/202771370401?hash=item2f361d91a1:g:m-YAAOSwRmNdVVvS If you ever need parts for a Chinese standard movement, I can't think of a cheaper way to get them. Of course this does mean that there is absolutely no financial imperative to ever fix one of these, since the cost of looking at it, far outweighs its monetary value. Great fun to pull apart and put back together to see what makes it tick though.

There are many ways leading to Rome and whether to lubricate or not can be up for debate I normally do lubricate the seconds pinion and indirectly the dog-leg leaf-spring. For this job I'm using a 0.13mm new, but old-fashion Rotring pen with some light oil in the reservoir. I'm not using Moebius, but Dr.Tillwich 1-3 oil. Just for the purpose of demonstration I took an empty 2409 main plate with the center-wheel inserted. Normally the small tip of the Rotring pen is wet enough, due to the capillary working of the oil, to pick up the seconds pinion; You can run the pen past the pinion and this will lubricate the pinion, if ever so slightly. I than insert the pinion and push it carefully down the shaft of the center-wheel. The gently push on top of the seconds-pinion will lubricate the top of the pinion ..... and therefor indirectly the tip of dog-leg leaf spring. The dog-leg leaf-spring can cause a variety of problems such as irregular amplitude, low amplitude, "dropping" second-hand when tilting the watch or a jittering second-hand. It needs therefore to be adjusted such that it just touches the top of the seconds-hand pinion, easy to be lift up but enough "push" to provide just enough friction to let the seconds-hand to run smoothly. Anyway, it's up to the watch repairer to decide how & what .... Just my two cents