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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/19 in all areas

  1. Bought this vintage MILJONÄR Swiss Made 1970s old diver wrist watch 17 Jewels couple months back from ebay very cheap (like 50 euros with delivery). Just liked the looks of it and thought I might get it back to working shape, so I can use it as my cheap tool watch for rainy days and just to get involved into watchmaking a bit. Watch was not running at all, glass broken, unable to unscrew the case back (well, that explained the price). MILLJONÄR is some Scandinavian market brand, usually they are non-expensive watches with AS movements. There are quite a lot of them around, but I couldn't find online another one divers watch. This one had AS 1686 movement with rotating bezel and claims to be 20 ATM waterproof on case back. 40 mm diameter. Tried to open case back myself, no luck. Asked local watchmaker in Helsinki - no luck. He suggested oiling the case back for a week using WD-40 and try later - no luck. As last resort he suggested gluing with superglue to watch case some big nut, so I can use some wrench to unscrew the case. Went to Riga, Latvia, asked watchmaker here to try to open it (they bragged they are best watchmakers in 8000km radius), he glued something to watch case, opened and cleaned reminds of glue with ultrasonic in less than 10 minutes, while we were talking. After that I disassembled the movement (stripped the lefty screw on crown wheel due to luck of experience), cleaned, oiled, assembled - it started to run pretty well. Ordered new set of screws from ebay, got all of them, except the one I needed (for crown wheel) - seller forgot to add it to package. After finally receiving it, I realised it's not the screw which is stripped, but the bridge over mainspring needs to be replaced. So ordered that from the same seller, replaced and watch was almost completed. On next trip to Riga got glass replaced and bought some non-expensive nato strap on ebay. Quite happy with end result and experience gained during the process!
    3 points
  2. What about switching to petroleum ether (naptha) which is basically the same, but cheaper and free of oils, perfumes and other additives that do nothing good in cleaning?
    1 point
  3. I usually clean vintage watch parts in lighter fluid with an art brush. Then I finish it off by tapping the pivot ends with pith wood. Never had an issue. I did look up the method in the web and it would be ok if you didn’t use the lighter fluid at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  4. Agree. Will re-stake with staking set. The JB Weld “chemical” solution will also add weight to the balance: may be indiscernible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  5. Hi all I’m a beginner. I clean parts in a cheap ultrasound. I usually suffer low amplitude. I came across a method for cleaning balance pivots that involves scrubbing them with a jewelers rouge coated stick. Described here https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/cleaning-balance-pivots/ is this generally a recommended cleaning step? Thank you Charlie
    1 point
  6. I think you just need to hit them really hard with a hammer to 'improve' the amplitude.
    1 point
  7. I would go against the JB weld idea, might get you out of trouble but would make it impossible to replace the staff again in the future. Unfortunately starting to sound like its time to start again.
    1 point
  8. Evening people, many thanks for your replies, really appreciated. Had another look at the movement, this time when fitting the hour hand didn't push it so far as to make it flush with the shaft it sits on, but left it slightly higher (no dial filled). This time it ran so refitted the dial and hands, re cased and working - for the moment ! Time to research canon pinions I think. Kindest regards to all. Chris
    1 point
  9. Never give up put it down for a while, come back tomorrow, when brain is calmer. I have done same with assembling watches, one thing will not work and get so frustrated nearly ends in bin! Lol. Next day everything seems so much better.
    1 point
  10. Are you sure its over banking. If it is the correct mainspring then oil viscosity will make little difference. I would check the pallet folk for loose pallet stones and also the folks have not been distorted. Maybe the banking pins are distorted.
    1 point
  11. ?!? Promising cold weld is the same as promising cold fusion - physics doesn't allow that. Read above to learn how it can be repaired without using gluse.
    1 point
  12. Like most Russian watches, if it is serviced and in good working order it is worth far more than you could sell it for. Value wise if you look on eBay you will find this sort of Poljot going for any where between £5 and £25 depending on condition, it could fetch more but not very likely. Russian watches tend to be very under rated though (in my opinion)and consequently demand far lower prices than their Swiss equivalents. They are quite capable movements though, and well worth picking up if you're into solid reliable engineering. Unfortunately a lot of them are rather let down by their cases.
    1 point
  13. Thanks for your help. I ordered the KIF tool set with the extra springs since mine went missing. However, when I sat down yesterday to fix it, the d*mn spring mysteriously reappeared on my workbench. I have no idea were it hid but I suspect it stuck to my dust tray somehow. The tools were smaller than expected but color coded on size so it was not a big problem figuring out what size my spring was. After 10 minutes both upper and lower springs were mounted. The tools was worth every penny. My first watch (40+ years) is now ticking away !
    1 point
  14. Another Timex novelty watch, with a cow, and a fly... nope I have no idea why. This arrived with the battery retaining clip missing, so I had to fabricate one. Rather fittingly, since I had no brass sheet thin enough, I resorted to a small piece of the lid of a can of sardines, rescued from the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiKLDkO-0rQ The paint was sanded off, then the metal was tinned with the soldering iron and cut/filed to shape, so If you see a bunch of flies following me around, there may be a reason for that. They are either after the watch, or more likely, the sardines.
    1 point
  15. What about this baby Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  16. Just for you OH... It has a bit of a mix'n match assortment of bits but it's a great tool.
    1 point
  17. Agree, opening a Rolex (with the correct die) is a must with this tool.
    1 point
  18. Best opening tool I ever bought. Expensive but worth every penny Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. Hi everyone! Yesterday my dad sent me a box full of his watches for me to practice and repair on. To my surprise, he sent a separate box with his original Seiko Pogue and a letter telling me that he wanted me to have it. Very emotional for me, as this is my father’s favorite watch. I kindly ask for advice on how to restore this timepiece. I feel comfortable changing the gaskets and perhaps the crystal. I would like to change the hands, as they have lost the lume, however they are original. The movement service I am afraid to take on, as I am an amateur/beginner and don’t want to damage it. The dial I think has a nice vintage patina. The bezel insert was replaced once, as the original was completely faded. The guy who serviced it last time (almost 10 years ago) did not do a good job and lost the inner bezel gear that goes in the stem. I found a replacement and could replace that myself. Thank you in advance and any advice is more than welcome. here is a picture.
    1 point
  20. Hi, My vote is to use the 9501 straight out of the 2ml bottle...I can also see the sense in using a small spatula though...I have had to shake the bottle from time to time and stir it occasionally with a wire rod as it seems to separate (harder/runny sections - maybe getting a bit old) for some reason. My habit is to open the bottle, use it where required and close the bottle straight away...works for me anyway...
    1 point
  21. Hi I would personally do it free hand as you have more control over the cut, Powertools will be a little too vicious, You could use an electric screw driver that runs on slow revs with a jacobs chuck.
    1 point
  22. It will probably self steer . A center drill like this is usually 60 degree.
    1 point
  23. Yes I put plain water in the reservoir and it works well. I am just working on a small scale so the small Jam jars are fine for me using Naptha (good grade lighter fuel with no added ingredients) and finish with pure isopropanol. I sometimes use Horosolv for bad cases and that is basically Benzene based. Don't forget to keep the pallet jewels away from the strong stuff as previously mentioned. You can use other cleaners of course - one test to check them is to leave a drop of cleaner on an old mirror or piece of glass and check after evaporation that there is little or no residue Cheers, Vic
    1 point
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