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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/18/19 in all areas

  1. The watch of today is a USSR era 19 jewel Sekonda 2628.H based TV face, probably from the late 1970s. EDIT: Ignore the fact that I've set the wrong date. It does work, honest. It arrived in a rather sad and tatty condition in this morning's post, and I actually got a chance to take a look at it at lunchtime, so I stripped it down, gave it a clean and sorted out the day/date issue. This evening the case got a polish and it got its first outing for who knows how long. The dial is a lot cleaner, but the minute hand still needs a little bit of attention. I filled the missing chip of paint, that had dropped out of the hand in the post, with a drop of PVA, but it will need coloured to match the rest. It is sitting a little fast, but is now back in beat, having gone from a beat error of around 14ms to less than 0.3ms after its service. I'll address its timekeeping and check the amplitude tomorrow. For those who are following this caper, this one made it into the 404 club with 80 pence to spare.
    3 points
  2. With ingenuity you could be able to. Plastigauge was invented for that. Now, I've never heard of it being uses on watches, but one could use aluminium foil stacked in different places to find where and how much shimming is needed. Philippe Dufour once saidn that case makers "are not very precise people", maybe the OP found himself in the same predicament
    2 points
  3. K&D are decent staking sets. I think my asking price is fair. @jdrichard simply had a hell of a deal.
    2 points
  4. For today, it’s been this 1940s Brio. Maker unknown, but possibly by Armand Chatelain-Voumard of Tramelan, located in the French-speaking area of Switzerland. This one runs on my only example of the 17j Eberle (NFT) 38/41. Regards.
    2 points
  5. Hi All, I am very overwhelmed with all the replies that was provided, thanks a lot for everybody that had an input on this, really appreciated it. Regards,
    1 point
  6. "Castle wheel" is probably another term for the sliding pinion since it looks like a little castle turret. If the case alignment with a screw-down crown isn't perfect between the stem and the movement, the stem can act like a spring when the crown is tightened and exert a force on the movement in an up or down direction. If that makes any part of the movement touch a part it's not supposed to (fouling), it can have a tremendous effect on the performance, including amplitude. You may never be able to find out exactly what's touching what because as soon as you release the stem, the pressure goes away. You might be able to put it all together and let it run for a month or so and then take the movement apart and look for wear marks on the pieces, but I wouldn't recommend that. It's better just to use a spacer to make sure the the case, dial, movment and stem are all in alignment.
    1 point
  7. Today, I felt like sporting my Benrus Sky Chief circa late 40s or early 50s. Decided on a unique bund strap keeping to its aviation history. Very beautiful IMHO and the Venus 178 Movement timeless.
    1 point
  8. Hi further research turns up rotary using the Hangzhou HZ2189 movement but also they used seagull movements of which there are a lot of both makes on the market. Will continue to look
    1 point
  9. Hi Once again Andy is on the mark, The chinese produce quite a few skeleton movements, which one this is, we really need the calibre to be able to identify the bit. I doe's look as though it was at some time screwed down, the screw may yet be lodged in the works some where.
    1 point
  10. Hi I think Andy is on right track regarding tolerences, When assembled and tested the movements would not be cased so a problem of this nature wouldn't show up untill cased, My guess would be an over length stem pressing on the castle wheel and interfering with the movement .
    1 point
  11. Hi, not entirely sure whether you're referring to my Brio but if so, then thank you, and it gains about 10 s/d. Cheers.
    1 point
  12. Sorry about mentioning prices. I only wanted to help a fellow member and be as clear as possible. I won't do it again
    1 point
  13. Hi That is one great set. It is a combination of the seitz jeweling tool and the staking too so has multiple uses. professional tool. And a couple of K&D balance staff removers , One sees these on the bay for £50 to 70. Whats to think about. at that price go for it.
    1 point
  14. I guess the moderators would let good members get by this time, yet thought I should inform you,
    1 point
  15. lift the clip all the way out and the stem will be relased.
    1 point
  16. I saw a video recently where a guy(scientist) compared the super glue brands and Loctite came out on top. I ordered a new wheel, but I'll keep it as a backup incase my fix does not work. Regards...
    1 point
  17. I have the exact same staking set, just a bit newer. Landed it for 150 Canadian Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  18. I used to make parts for clocks such as pivots, mounting wheels that sort of thing. Add a little Loctite will do the trick. Make sure you buy the right type.
    1 point
  19. The "small part" looks most likely to be from the keyless work, and looks to have been held in place by a screw. Is the movement an automatic or manual wind?
    1 point
  20. For your information... Boley is a German supplier of watch stuff and jewelry and the stacking sets they sell are from Star.
    1 point
  21. 1200 Krona? That's a very nice set.
    1 point
  22. It hardens fast so mix and apply fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  23. Thanks for the informative video. I have always shied away from using glue anywhere close to a watch movement, but JBWeld may be exactly what I need. My repair is very simple, so I'll give it a go.
    1 point
  24. Check if case tube pushes on the stem. I look through the tube to check if stem hole lines up right. I remove the crown off the stem to observe the effect.
    1 point
  25. I have used JB Weld to keep a Pinion from slipping. Need to put it on the shaft and the bead of JB Weld left over from the shaft helps keep the Pinion in place as it is glued to the wheel as well. I made a YouTube video on transplanting a Pinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  26. Seems to have all the right stakes and stumps . I have three staking sets but usually only use the one that is a lot like yours Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  27. This will be a fine staking set Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  28. Nature produces abundance of edible desiccants for us, No need to consider harmful stuff. Desiccation is not limited to water moisture, however, thence some desiccant may become harmful by contaminants.
    1 point
  29. I love quality but IMHO cost must be reasonable for the intended (hobbyst) use. So I'm putting the $32 link anyway https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32634442471.html
    1 point
  30. Hi oldhippy, I have just finished the Everite watch and your comments about oiling the pallet pivots were Spot On!. I cleaned them with Acetone, dried and then re-assembled the balance. The balance now has a steady 220 deg. Amplitude. I have timed it to +30 Secs per day. It is much better now. Thank you so much for your correct diagnosis and perhaps 9010 is a little stickier than I thought. I have learnt something from your years of experience and am most grateful to you. Thinking about it there would no real need to oil the pallet bearings as the rotational moment is so small, I realise this now that you pointed it out. Thanking you again, Best regards, the old Jobber Mike. spot on !.
    1 point
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