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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/15/19 in all areas

  1. My sister and her husband went to a yard sale last weekend. They told me they saw a bucket of what they thought were watch parts, but didn't buy. I was disappointed. My sister drove back to the sale site last Monday and ask if they still had the bucket and the lady said yes—she didn't know what it was and was about to throw out. My sister gave her $5.00 US for the bucket, and here it is. Each container is filled with watch movements and parts. Some appear to be new old stock that was never used. Many unusual items relating to small tools. I don't see anything newer than possibly mid 1950's. As I go though the bucket to inventory I will post updated pictures to this post for all to see. Regards...
    2 points
  2. It just gave way after many years. Replace the gasket if possible and put back together. Put it back together, maybe you will have to slightly press the outer rim of the washers with a staking tool before fitting so that it so slightly widened to make a good fit.
    2 points
  3. Then either it is not the right part for the tube, or the tube is severely worn out and would have to be replaced as well - that would be strange but not impossible. To check you would have to inspect with a microscope or high-mag loupe, and/or measure with a micrometer for a known correct size. No, and I recommend that you don't do that. These are supposed to be quality parts are manufactured precisely. There is no amount of oil/grease that can cause the cannon pinion to lose its designed friction to the tube, or regain it in case isn't there.
    2 points
  4. Before - and - After 107 Timex Automatic. This model orginated with a 31 automatic and was later made with the update 107. This watch insored designer Todd Synder to create a monern version. Actually quite a nice homage but saddly only a quartz https://www.toddsnyder.com/pages/the-military-watch-by-todd-snyder-timex
    1 point
  5. I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project.
    1 point
  6. They do turn up in some interesting watches, this for example according to the seller has a BG 866 variant. .. and I must confess that if one of those turned up in need of parts, I too would be tempted to perform a partial brain transplant with the poor old Ackro De Luxe as the victim.
    1 point
  7. Looks great, that should be easy to get over a lathe- you'll never turn with a loupe again!
    1 point
  8. It could also be that is slow at the escapement. You could tell with a timegrapher or equivalent application, which is a mandatory tool working with mechanical watches.
    1 point
  9. Thank you all for thinking with me on this problem. I just tightened the cannon pinion a little bit. I know its new and I shouldn't have to do that, but the watch is old therefore the center tube is also old. Now the minute hand moves!! I'll have to watch out I didn't over do it and the watch runs too slow, but we'll see!
    1 point
  10. Neither price is expensive and well worth for a valuable watch.
    1 point
  11. I didn,t think a new original crown would be this inexpensive. Regards joe
    1 point
  12. These are called top glasses. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/domed-top-sternkreuz-st They may need a slight sanding to fit. Download and check the catalog.
    1 point
  13. I would but this is the original signed crown. These are expensive and the watch will be worth quite a bit less if I fit a generic crown. Can't find a gasket though and a new original crown is 20 GBP. The reference number is the 14915 by the way.
    1 point
  14. If there is no friction fit stud. You have to fit the hairspring to the balance so the roller is in the center of the pallets. Most repairers will mark on the balance the position where the stud should be . This helps when fixing it all back in place.
    1 point
  15. Just replace it with a new one.
    1 point
  16. Perhaps a little harsh, although I agree that it is not a high end piece, these pin lever movements are still an interesting engineering challenge, well executed. Think of it as the Swatch of its day, engineered to a price. The fact that it is still working all these years later, and with all of those battle scars tells you that despite the low cost bill of materials, the engineers at Baumgartner were no fools. I think it at lest deserves a quick sand and polish of that scratched up crystal, as most, if not all of those surface scratches look like they would be easily addressed, though I must admit, I would probably not replace the crystal either. One other point, I suspect that it has a rarity value, that your average Rolex from the period does not. Few of these will have survived (perhaps for obvious reasons).
    1 point
  17. I think that excess oil/grease on center tube caused the slippage with the old canon pinion. In case it turned out too tight, I would oil the canon pinion interface, turn manually with the crown. Sometimes you would need to broach the canon pinion if too tight, so appraoch the suitable friction in small increments. Once you do this, you feel master at it.
    1 point
  18. So, slippage at the canon pinion is the very likely cause.
    1 point
  19. Just a quick intro for myself. For many years in my early days I was a "one watch" guy. I owned (still have, broken) a Tissot PR100 automatic. The watch ran well for about 13 years (good on Tissot), and then started losing time. Epiphany. Automatic watches need maintenance. I had never owned one and didn't know that (I felt pretty stupid). I loved the watch so I brought it an authorized Tissot dealer. After about a month, they told me the movement wasn't repairable, but they could replace it for $100. I gave the go ahead and a month a later they called to say it was done. At that point, they said the stem wasn't a complete match (I had no idea then what that meant), but wanted to charge $200 for the replacement. We settled on the original $100 quote after some...discussion (and my copy of the quote). Needless to say, the watch stopped working in short order and I didn't go back. I've kept it though, hoping someday I'd be able to properly repair, or at least properly replace the movement. In the ensuing years, I got into collecting affordable watches (mostly under $500) and love the hobby. I have all kinds and usually wear a different watch every day, now that I am retired. I love to view watch reviews and particularly reviews by watchmakers where they disassemble and analyze the quality of the watch and movements as well as repair videos. It has rather sparked an interest, and hence why I wanted to join. I'd be thrilled to even develop the skills to simply effectively replace movements and perhaps to regulate my watches. I've been viewing this set of forums for awhile and am impressed with the friendly and knowledgeable folks here. So, cheers to each of you and to some interesting times ahead!
    1 point
  20. The former owner of this watch apparently test the "Water Resistant" print on the dial on this 1978 Timex. Yes, it failed the test and left behind a damage 106 movement. But, no worries because I had recently salvaged the movement from a 109 that I knew could be swapped in. that is once I add in the date assembly and date wheel detent spring. TIP: the 104, 105, 106, and 109 all have the same base movement inside. What makes them different is the date and or day date complication. by swapping a few bits you can interchange all of them. Okay you can even use them in a 116 and just have to nip the seconds pinon down about 2MM. ssshhhh keep this a secret! -edit: I forgot to mention the dial did suffer some damage as well but, I think it give some character to the watch now. Here are the before and after- I also gave it a good scrubbing, buffed out the crystal such.
    1 point
  21. I have noticed that poljots seem to suffer from keyless works problems.stem breakage and stripped gears . I have purchased a few from Latvia and Ukraine to hone my skills on. It seems to be a metallurgy issue.
    1 point
  22. and here is the after - NOS case, crown\stem and movement. Crystal buffed out, dial has signs of the damage that occurred but she is running again. Now this is not a sort after vintage Timex but since I had the parts a figured what the heck. The kicker even though I did give the movement a quick test before installing it did fail latter on. I tried several times to clear it out with cleaner spay and followed with lube. But it just would not go. Than yesterday I popped the battery back in and off she went running right on time. Could have been some of the cleaner did not flush out and was shorting somewhere. Well she is running now!
    1 point
  23. The case is chrome plated with a stainless steel cast back. So these do hold up well. The movement is more of the weaker component as the click is rather thin and tends to wear down.
    1 point
  24. @Andyworks, from your description of the stones on the barrel and train bridge it sounds as though you are refering to the Seiko Diafix settings for their cap jewels. These are a 3 pronged horse shoe shaped spring clip and they don't need to be removed. The trick with these is to free the middle tab from the retaining slot and then hinge the clip up with the two nd tabs still located. The jewel can then be removed, cleaned, and replaced without the clip ever leaving the plate. I probably haven't described this very well but if you google Seiko Diafix, or have a look here; https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.wordpress.com/2016/04/30/hidden-depths-a-seikomatic-r-from-1966/ you will see what I mean. Incidentally Martin's blog is an excellent read, especially if you have an interest in vintage Seiko.
    1 point
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