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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Yes you should. Metal against metal is not good and will create wear. Only the tiniest amount is needed other wise it will create drag. So small the amount you can hardly notice it. A good tip also is oil just a few teeth of the escape wheel and not the pallet pins, the rotation of the wheel and action of the pallets will distribute the oil.
  2. 3 points
    DrG

    First watch

    Just wanted to share that I finished building my first watch. It runs on a Miyota 8215. Here is a picture.
  3. 2 points
    Plus you would be surprised, ampltiude flies as you lube escape teeth.
  4. 2 points
    I tried building a small tent of plastic sheeting over my mat with holes for my hands and head. But I could only work in it for about 4 minutes before blacking out. So I decided to practice more, use rodico and patiently wait for like items to come up on flea bay to replace those that obtained freedom through deleterious means. Never thought to cover only the movement and my hands. Learn something every day! :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  6. 1 point
    Hi welcome to the forum enjoy.
  7. 1 point
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    This rather forlorn looking thing is a Waltham. The logo was so poorly printed that it washed right off when I cleaned the dial.It came with an AS1686 with a rusty keyless works,which I swapped out with one previously serviced.the spiedel band came with the watch it has a '63 production date. I had to remove 5 links. The previous owner must have been a pretty large man.
  8. 1 point
    Hello Pal, welcome aboard.
  9. 1 point
    Great job dude. I'm a fan of Citizen btw.
  10. 1 point
    Calibetimepiece

    Level 2 finished

    I see. Sorry, I thought I saw some scratches on your case, I think it's the dust on my computer screen.
  11. 1 point
    ITProDad

    Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider"

    Excellent work. The hands turned out wonderful! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    praezis

    Bent hairspring

    That result was not so surprising after all the confusing advice given. Nickelsilver gave the exact position for correction and also explained the simple rule that applies here. Unfortunately later comments confused the clear advice. Nevertheless I hope this story ends well - with new balance assembly Frank
  13. 1 point
    jackie01

    Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider"

    When movement was ticking in the drawel I could work on the hands and dial. The old coat of paint was remove. I chose the paint that in my opinion is similar to the orginal Citizen orange color. When you paint so small parts you should have patient - no rush or you want start again Hour and minute hands get white paint and new lume. I think it looks ok. Only with painting the dial I am not glad - it could be better. But it was my first time so I forgive myself Step by step to the end...
  14. 1 point
    I cant find a good clear close up photo of the regulator pins. You have to pins with a small gape one each side of the hairspring. The hairspring must be free in all positions no mater where the regulator is, the hairspring must be able to move between both pins( I like to call it bounce) One of the reasons it might not start on its own, it could be slightly out of beat. A cylinder can be fiddly to get in beat, if you are a beginner, I would leave it be and see how it goes for time.
  15. 1 point
    Hi Koen, no need to offer the usual advice of "buy the best tools you can afford" in your case! That is a very nice work area indeed. You are obviously someone who likes to prepare very well before beginning work. As far as the timegrapher readings go, I would take them with a big pinch of salt wrt. cylinder escapements. Check the timekeeping after an hour, and if that's OK then after 24 hours. Also, don't worry about the watch not starting on its own when you wind it up. Cylinder escapements don't self-start like anchor escapements do. You have to give them a good shake with power in the main-spring.
  16. 1 point
    Well done, and very entertaining. Even though i slightly advanced from beginner, can remember the frustration of pinging parts into oblivion, not so common nowadays, and not photographing stages! Having spares on rebuild etc. Love to see your next project, keep up the good work.
  17. 1 point
    I insert a micro tapered pin into the pin hole of the regulator arm. As is the regulator dose no good. Regards
  18. 1 point
    Thanks @oldhippy for your help... Go see if I can find the hands. The bench is made by a Dutch guy living in Friesland, http://www.dumetwatches.com Very happy with the workbench, aluminium frame, hand made tabletop and drawers from Ikea. I am happy the watch works again, so for my first time, very happy! ;-)
  19. 1 point
    Like OH I had the old paper tape timing machines back in the day. They would spit out enough dots to get pretty close on most cylinders, but not always. Agree that without the missing pin (probably a Swiss key or "boot" shape) you won't get any sort of result. My WItschi (S1) doesn't pick up cylinders at all and both my old Vibrograf B200 machines are dead, so I check that they are in beat visually, and by ear, then time them just checking the time over 24 hours.
  20. 1 point
    The movement is known as a 5 bar movement, with cylinder escapement. One of the regulator pins I see is missing; someone has turned the one remaining pin into a bit of a hook. If you look at the top of the regulator, a hole is for the other pin. Timing machines in my days back in the 70’s and 80’s didn’t pick up cylinder movements very well. I don’t know about the modern ones of today. I will just say your machines readings are all over the place because of the movement not being regulated because of the missing pin. Cylinder escapements are not compensated so can and do very with the weather; a couple of minute’s ether way is satisfactory. The hand measure from the centre to around the minute markers that is about the length. If you have means to measure the pivot for the hand that will give you the size, you can reamer out the hole to get it to fit, be careful the metal is tough. One of the most common styles of hand for these movements are called spade and they are a very dark blue/black. Some also are of a brass/gold type colour again spade. There are many styles of hands; I have given you the most common. Where did you get the very nice work bench? It looks so well made.
  21. 1 point
    WatchMaker

    Making Springs—Click, Lever, etc.

    You may be interested in this previous thread: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/11979-spring-wire-for-a-click-spring-015mm There has to be a market for these kind of springs! Anyone who works with watches and hasn't inadvertently launched a spring somewhere never to be found again at some time is fibbing! After working on a movement where the date jumper spring was placed in just such a way that it could make a bid for freedom as soon as the retaining plate was gently loosened, I now always perform such an operation within a clear plastic bag!
  22. 1 point
    It's fixed. A little bit of solder and heat shrink and I'm back in business. Thank goodness because I don't have the money to spend on tools or watches right now.
  23. 1 point
    I’ve done a bit of research and I keep seeing guitar string as a spring material. Just a guess but it looks like most click type springs are about .3-.4mm. I have not looked at the OEM spring build process but I suspect the wire is heated then shaped otherwise such sharp bends looks to me like it would easily break the wire. I know buying what I need is the easy answer but I like challenges so unless I find it is a big extended process then I’ll give it a go just for the experience. Regards.
  24. 1 point
    ITProDad

    Making Springs—Click, Lever, etc.

    I like your spirit, young man!! But, spring steel is a different animal. If you bend it beyond its design it will weaken greatly. Could break. But it is possible. And they are usually made of “spray no steel”. You might have better luck looking for the exact part you need. It’s amazing what people have that you might need, including on this forum. As for having springs, especially those little kif buggers, fly into another dimension right before your eyes; well you’re not a watch maker until you fill that alternate universe at least 11/16ths FULL of horological fiddly bits. Welcome to the club, my friend. Just a suggestion the next time you approach a potential flier, use rodico to tack it down to plate before you touch it. This usually catches about 25% of potential losses. Good luck. If you do make your own I think w would all love to see it! Please? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    watchweasol

    Seiko stem removal

    Hi One would assume you put a screwdriver into the hole marked turn and do just that. What is the calbre of the watch It should be on the back plate. A photo of the complete back plate would be useful.
  26. 1 point
    Hi This file may explain it all there are different types this seems to cover it How to Remove Watch Band Links_ Link Identification.html
  27. 1 point
    Hi Had a look round. Google "how to shorten a watch band without pins" It shows how its done in a short video
  28. 1 point
    Hi It can be done with needle nosed pliers to push out the clip. I have seen instructions somwhere on how to do it as its easier to see than explain, will have a look round the net.
  29. 1 point
    You're off by a decimal place there, 0.008" 0.203mm.
  30. 1 point
    Deggsie

    Bent hairspring

    I've heard of people using sewing needles with the end of the eye ground away to turn them in to a two pronged fork. Nice idea [emoji106] I’m going to make up a selection of size and give this method a go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
    Deggsie

    Bent hairspring

    Agree with the above, but in my limited experience playing around with damaged hairsprings, I get best results if the hairspring is removed from the balance staff. Then lay on a sheet of white paper. Sharpen your tweezers really fine. Take time, and come back to the job every 15minutes. Don’t be keen to finish in one go. When the damaged areas are teased back into form, keep laying the hairspring onto the cock and make final adjustments to the stud area so that it is perfectly concentric. Also pay attention to keeping the stud upright, of not it’ll push the hairspring out of flat when reinstalled into the cock. Take your time. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  32. 1 point
    watchweasol

    Bent hairspring

    Hi Lc Looks pretty bad . best thing to to is remove the spring from the balance and the balance from the cock lay the spring on the cock centered over the jewel hole then carefully stroke the spring back into the round removing the kinks as you go. Its a time consuming job care and patience are the watch word. In the case of Balance complete, It comprises of the balance wheel with balance spring fitted and timed complete with stud ready to attach to the balance cock and put into the movement. No adjustments needed other than slipping it into the regulator. Might be the quickest option.
  33. 1 point
    This is my latest project a rather neglected 3/4 Westminster probably dating from 1910-1920 and made by Winterhalder, case rather worse for wear, varnish crazed some minor splitting of the veneer, rear door catches and is hard to open, will strip, renew varnish, clean bezel, re-silver dial and bezel then laquer case, replace cloth and clean grill insert. Movement will be totally stripped, re-bushed where needed, pivots burnished, mainsprings cleaned or replaced if needed.
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