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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    m1ks

    FHF69N service

    Have just finished editing and uploading this service of a swiss fhf69n movement from a rotary dress watch belonging to a friends Dad. He'd had it stored for a long while not working so I'm delighted to get it going again for him.
  2. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Going barrel end shake

  3. 1 point
    MIKED19551

    ETA/Unitas 6947

    If you just want a movement to practice with I would suggest you purchase a Chinese clone movement. They are almost identical in construction and don't cost a fortune if you accidentally break something.
  4. 1 point
    measuretwice

    Watchmakers Bench

    TO's maybe a bit far then, but I've driven to Ottawa for stuff I wanted. They seem to come up regularly, nothing right now except an overpriced beater in Collingwood, but if I see anything I'll let you know
  5. 1 point
    If we’re looking at the spring wound into the barrel then you’ve got the spring wound in the wrong way. Should look like this (except not dirty) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
    PeterS

    Going barrel end shake

    Beautiful! Well, not quite, but now the train runs smoothly. I could have made the shim thinner and work my way up until it’s perfect but this is a scrap movement, I use it to find problems and learn how to deal with them. I shimmed it in two places just by the screws. The third screw (the furthest away) did not have any effect on the running of the train when screwed down tightly. Thank you all for your help and input.
  7. 1 point
    vinn3

    FHF69N service

    i watched part of the video.
  8. 1 point
    Looks like a normal caseback that you can remove with a jaxa or similar tool.
  9. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    deformed hair spring

    Fault at impulse jewel. Loose, dirty, damaged impulse jewel. Did you see deftormity in HS coil or judging is based on erratic behaviour? You can observe behavior of the HS from the movement side.fouling itself, sticking, rubbing on the cock or balance spokes are observable, if you can video record it, slow replay reveals more.
  10. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    deformed hair spring

    Sounds like impulse jewel is not in beat. Do you know how check if impulse is in beat?
  11. 1 point
    PeterS

    Going barrel end shake

    Now I understand! I’ll start with aluminium foil and progress to dial washers if need be. When the barrel is between the plate and the bridge on their own it’s not hard or difficult to turn it but the fact that it stops turning immediately as soon as I stop giving it a push is an indication that it’s not right and it needs more freedom to run. It runs smoothly when all bridge screws are in just before they ‘bite’ but as soon as I tighten them it’s not as smooth as I think it should be. *Nickelsilver – everything reverses. It’s usually the centre wheel I give a push when I test it and I used the centre wheel to describe the issue. The barrel reverses a notch (magnifier needed to see it) and the escape wheel spins backwards a lot as you’d expect when the centre wheel turns back 20 – give or take degrees.
  12. 1 point
    WatchMaker

    EB 8800 Main Plate

    I dealt with one of these a long time ago and seem to recall the wheel will separate for cleaning. Just done a search online and this assembly video ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2zzK2NiJ9c ... supports that.
  13. 1 point
    oldhippy

    EB 8800 Main Plate

    If you can remove it then do so. The wheel that is trapped I'm sure has a friction tight wheel underneath and that will need to be oiled.
  14. 1 point
    oldhippy

    Movement identification

    You need to remove the movement from the case, remove the hands and dial, any I D under the dial? If not take a good clear photo of the keyless work and up-load it.
  15. 1 point
    Nucejoe

    Going barrel end shake

    Shimming is placing a piece of like thin aluminum foil between mainplate and the bridge to increase the distance between the two. Yes turning back as the barrel unwinds fully, indicated the train is so friction free that kenetic energy of the runing train winds the MS back.
  16. 1 point
    nickelsilver

    Going barrel end shake

    If the barrel has shake on its arbor, but the arbor is tight between the plate and bridge, should really not have an effect on the running but would make winding harder. The arbor turns when winding, the barrel turns around the arbor during running. Yes, when the watch is assembled, fork and balance out putting a few clicks of wind on the barrel should set the train in motion and the escape wheel should reverse at least a bit and hopefully a turn or few turns. That's an indication the train is free and clean. In the OP it wasn't really clear what was reversing or why (center wheel?), but it's pretty clear there's an issue with the barrel.
  17. 1 point
    aac58

    Going barrel end shake

    I've always heard that a bit of backwards movement once the MS has unwind is a good train wheels healthy sign. Am I wrong?
  18. 1 point
    watchweasol

    Going barrel end shake

    Hi No bending or filing as once done no recovery path, Get hold of a couple of watch dial washers and put them between the bridge and the front plate and screw the bridge down with the barrel in place, Put the screws so as they go through the dial washers , Once done and screws tightened down recheck for freedom. Hopefully that should work with no butchering and can be altered easily.
  19. 1 point
    watchweasol

    Going barrel end shake

    Hi Have you tried fitting the barrel and bridge on their own and testing for shake and freedom if there is no end shake it will need further investigation as to why.
  20. 1 point
    nickelsilver

    what do i do with my mainspring?

    This is an automatic watch. You can replace the broken mainspring with an automatic spring, with integral slipping bridle (brake spring). Or you can use a standard spring with your separate brake spring. Either way you need to grease the barrel wall with braking grease.
  21. 1 point
    Mark

    Chinese Timegraphers

    The 1900 give you the option to manually select the beat. This can be very useful. The 1000 is very limited in this respect. Having said that, the 1000 is excellent for majority of watches you would work on, no good for co-axials but good for the most common beat ranges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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