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Another 7t34 for the project draw coming from Italy

Got another Waltham Vangaurd movement coming. When will the madness end. Gold settings and diamond end stones sooo hard to resist. Have a few nice cases looking for movements... Still need to find a side wider for my hunter case though....Ron

Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.

You are correct! Upon careful inspection, there are two screws at 180 degree position on the mainplate. Thank you!

Good, thanks. I got confused by the use of same color drops with or without circles. Other sheets use circles to indicate quantity, not type.

if has been repaired, it MIGHT be atached wit double back tape. vin

Have you checked mainplates side at 5hr and at 2hr for little screws holding the dial feet? If they don,t unscrew peacefully, put penetrating oil on them, let soak over night, sharpen you screwdriver to perfect fit. If you can,t find the screws, give claiber post pix of MP sides( outer circumference) Good luck

I second your decision. There's probably no absolute truth here. My first and so far only ETA 2824-2 that I've serviced ended up with too low amplitude. The reason for this is still under investigation. However, I'm now servicing my second ETA 2824-2 and this time around, unlike the first time, I'm going to use thin oil for the 3rd wheel following the example in the ETA 2824-2 service video that I linked to.

I've got the Flashforge Dreamer 3D printer. I've not really made much with it for watchmaking, myself, but have used it for many other things including making parts for my 1970s electro-mechanical pinball machine that were not obtainable any other way. A very important thing to think about when buying a printer is the size of the print bed as this dictates the biggest thing you can make, usually cheaper machines have smaller print beds that will limit the size of things you can make. Try and buy a printer that is fully enclosed as it eliminates the problems of cold drafts cooling the print too much between layers that can lead to print failure. You want a printer that can print from an SD card not just from your computer. That way you don't need to leave you computer on when you are doing an 8 or 12 hour print. Choose a printer that parts are readily available for and that has a big user following, as this will give you more help with finding the best settings. Look at what software comes with the printer and think about what other software you might use. I design most of my parts on the free software sketchup, but purchased simplify3D for doing my slicing as it produces better results than the software that came with my printer. Printers are somewhat noisy and do give off plastic fumes so best if you don't need to leave it running in a small enclosed room. That should give you a little to think about.

I second this approach. I'll just add heat can also be used to break down the superglue.