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Is it in beat? Is it making a nice Tick, Tock sound, or does it sound like an old man walking on crutches? If its not in beat it won't run well, or if badly out of beat not at all. An easy test is to tilt the whole case on the wall left or right a few degrees and see if the ticking sounds better or not. If it does then its out of beat and needs to be adjusted which is not hard, just Google 'Putting Clock in Beat' If it was working, got taken home and then stopped working being out of beat is very likely.

The way of getting these in beat, you move the coiled balance spring until the impulse pins are center, with power on the balance should start to rotate by its self.

Hi I agree with your sentiment but unfortuntly not all of us have the enquier's instinct and reach for help at the first hurdle and so therefore one has to take the initiave and lead to be able to acertain the requirements and range of help needed and if necessary help with a bit of research. Having been repairing clocks and watches as a hobby for 50 plus years and being computer literate ( computer engineer ) one gains an insight for diagnostics and as such only too glad to help my fellow man. This forum is a mine of information and should always remain so. Help costs very little.

1930 ! If I can find its cal I will try and find what's needed, my only other option is to find out the correct movement for the watch and try to find one. The rear has Fero 76c stamped on it, I have looked in case it could be the original movement cal, but found nothing. If anyone knows the correct movement for this watch I would be grateful. I know it isn't a fantastic watch, but I like the way it looks.

Some of the mainspring barrel teeth have been completely stripped and replaced with steel pins and not very well they are unevenly spaced and too small it would make the transfer of power from the mainspring uneven and would be impossible to get it to keep good time coupled with the fact its a cylinder escapement. I don't think the handle is the original it seems to have been bent to fit and it should have small bun feet .It's a complete dog at £250.00

Something close to this. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?00&ranfft&0&2uswk&Langendorf_2_10_5 Movement is probably from around the 1930 .

It's a Lanco or Langendorf movement . But which caliber i have n't found yet. Same as this. Could be hard to find numbers on old movements . https://www.ebay.com/itm/171132536407?frcectupt=true

34mm 2192.10 from 1976.

It looks like somebody got a real good grip on the barrel with that steel-jawed vise, doesn't it? Steel with leverage versus brass. We know what wins. Butchery, to be sure.

Exclusing the filth I'll start with: Where are the feet / base for the case, it suren't cant just sit on that brass plate. Plus the teeth on the mainspring barrel look to all be chewed up, so I'm sure there will be damage to otehr wheels we can't see. That's a delineate 'Don't buy' one unless you want a lot of work and pain.

Err; they are asking too much for it ! vin

Once again OH is on the ball, I have enclosed a five page document with drawings regarding setting up the balance hope you find it useful hermle_floating_bal_summary.pdf

The WUS problems are just too bad and I do agree, no use burying hard work in a running thread. Anyway, I'll publish links to my Vostok 24XX picture walkthroughs here at WRT once I'm done, and of course, my pictures will be available for future use once the right context/thread is in place. Thanks for your kind words! They mean a lot to me!

Morning all Away from the quartz watches today. Not as warm as I hoped but still nice to have breakfast outside waiting for my fox friend to wake up.

Long time since I popped a pic of a watch here .. but today I thought I'll hang a noname watch around my wrist. The Purple danger has a modified 2824-2 raving under the hood, the date function har been removed .

Thanks, Endeavor! Heartwarming! Next up will be the Vostok cal. 2409 (forever in my heart). I'm hoping to be finishing it this week, and maybe that could be an addition to the "Vostok tutorial project"!?

Hi Try removing all power and letting the balance rest then take note of its position like a watch it should be lying central. If it is with a small brush sweep the balance and check its rotation with no power. alernativly remove the balance assy and check for smooth rotation, apply some power to the movement and check the action of the fork assy for a snappy action. Its a process of elimination, once setup ok they are usually very reliable. I have worked on both the Hermle and Smiths versions and only had regulation problems on one of them There are some good descriptions on the workings of the floating balance on the net

Hi Here are the 5 files relating to your clock should be useful during your repair as Old H says it did look very dry and would benefit from a good clean and lube. Herm-1.pdf Herm-2.pdf Herm-3.pdf Herm-4.pdf Herm-5.pdf

Hi fellow addicts found on the net under the NAWCC banner in the index a section on making and using Horological tools, Maybe usefull for those of us who like to make our own bits and pieces. Quite a list of information to browse through.

From what I can see it looks very dry I don’t see any oil. Have you let the springs down and checked for wear. Not the best of metal in these, its quite soft compared to movement long ago. With the floating balance, make sure it is clean at the ends, normally jewelled at each end. A drop of watch oil in the jewels, then work the balance up and down a few time, the balance must be free. Clock oil on all moving parts this includes the pallet pins and escape wheel teeth. If the clock is cleaned and the springs, I think you will see a big change in the action of the chimes and balance.