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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/19 in all areas

  1. Hi Jd I have attached a little bit of information for you hope you find it of some use Trenton Watch Company_ History, Serial Numbers, Production Dates.html
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  2. It dates from 1903 up to 1907
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  4. Hi I think these tech sheets will assist if you decide to change the battery which I think is the first course of as they are cheap as opposed to a movement change. Once the battery has been changed you have to restart the movement by shorting the terminal marked ac to the posative side of the battery. Its all explained in the tech sheet. I belive the movement is a Hattori VD53B there are several versions but they all originate from Seiko. 3546_Seiko VD53A, VD53B.pdf VD53_TG.pdf
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  5. I've always used Hirch straps they are very hard wearing and at around £25.00 for a padded one I think they are good value and I can get a good few years from one and a good range of styles available and their straps for fixed wire strap bars are very good. I do not think you would get any longer use out of the extortionately priced manufactures straps such as Omega and Breitling with prices starting at £200.00 even if it lasted 5 years you could still have many many years worth of straps at a fraction of the price of one branded strap they are another way of extracting money from the gullible.
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  6. Tripping can definitely be from the passing spring being in contact too long. It can be from a few other things too. You need to slowly rotate the balance and see the action. The detent should release the escape wheel a hair before the impulse jewel is on center line, then return as quickly as possible well before the escape wheel has finished impulse. It can be a bit of a tap dance between the passing spring impulse jewel and banking.
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  7. Ok it’s time again to offer a movement to anyone who would like it. Sorry but it has to be UK only due to postage costs. Its a Timex, it looks to be an older movement and it’s running although it appears to be running fast. Oh and it’s free! All I suggest is that the recipient considers offering something that they do not need in the clock/watch world to keep the karma flowing. PM me if you would like and I’ll stick it in the post. First come first dibs
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  9. Thank you for the answers So am I correct in thinking there definately is an issue with it. Either its not been serviced, or not serviced to Rolex specification, or serviced but other issues like the main spring not sorted ?
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  10. Old pic but decided to wear this today. Great dial colour, flips around depending on the light. Love it on the WatchGecko vintage leather rally strap. Would be nice to find an original bracelet too.
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  11. Not sure what you're trying to say Nucejoe, but I like the sound of it!
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  12. ETA 980.153 Service Walkthrough The ETA 980 Caliber is used mostly in ladies high-end quartz watches. The iteration for this walkthrough is the 980.153, which has the seconds subdial. ETA 980.153 - Technical Communication.PDF I thought this one would interest many of you, as it has a primary and secondary train bridge. Once the Hands are removed, turn the movement over and turn the fastening screws for the Dial Feet (circled in orange) until the flats are towards the feet. This will allow you to easily remove the Dial. Once the Dial is removed, you can take off the Hour Wheel. This is the only item to be removed from the dialside of the movement. Place your movement in the holder and unscrew the two screws holding the Circuit. Note they are two different lengths. Remove the Circuit and Battery Contacts and place the Circuit immediately somewhere safe. Next remove the three screws on the primary Train Bridge, and remove the bridge. Here are some reference shots of the primary train. Once the wheels are removed, you'll be able to see the Canon Pinion. DO NOT try and remove it at this stage! As you can see, it's slightly under the wheels in the secondary train for the seconds sub-dial. This will have to be removed before extracting the Canon Pinion. Before we get to removing the secondary train we must first remove the Coil. Remove the Coil Protector, then carefully lift out the Coil along with the Stator. Next remove the secondary train bridge. This is held in place with a single screw and two locating pins. The locating pins can be a little tight fitting, so very gently rock the bridge and work it slowly off these pins to avoid breaking a pivot or jewel. Now you can remove the two wheels under this bridge and the Canon Pinion. On to the plastic housing that the Swiss lovely refer to as the "Electronic Module Distance Piece" ... yeah, whatever! :rolleyes: Make sure the crown is pushed in, and NOT in the hand setting position, then undo the single screw and lift out the "Black Chuck of Plastic Module Thingie" :P Once this is removed, you can get to the Keyless Work and the Minute Wheel. You can then pull the Yoke, Sliding Pinion, Setting Lever and Stem out for cleaning. The disassembly is complete. After cleaning assembly is just the reverse operation. Here are some reference photos to help you along... I hope this has been an interesting walkthrough, and helps those wishing to tackle this wonderful little movement jam packed with wheels and bridges :)
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