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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/19 in all areas

  1. Today I pulled out a seldom worn Crepas L'ocean.... Here's the link to their site.... http://www.crepaswatches.com/styled/photos-4/index.html There are quite a few features on this watch and although it does have a presence , I find it very comfortable to wear . It comes with the Stainless Steel Bracelet , and also a silicone bright Blue strap with the link to clear he crown .
    3 points
  2. A whopping £2.20 secured this rather attractive '76 Timex Marlin. Obviously for that money it 'aint working, but that's half the fun of this game.
    1 point
  3. I purchased a while back the Horotec 01.201.D set of screwdrivers. They are not cheap but I do really love them. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/horotec-stainless-steel-6-pieces The heads are mounted on ball races, not really necesary but does make them very smooth to use.
    1 point
  4. Since you mentioned better tools. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Watch-repair-tool-Heavy-Metal-Made-Adjustable-Watch-Case-Snap-Back-Opener-professional-removal/32344173972.htm With tips for bracelets, $10 more https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Watch-repair-tool-Heavy-Metal-Made-Adjustable-Watch-Case-Snap-Back-Opener-professional-removal/32344173972.html You also need a small press to close the back. But unless you do a lot of snap back, they are totally an overkill. Much more needed is good screw-in opener.
    1 point
  5. I bought my set back in the 70's Chromium plated and they are still as good as the day I bought them. None of the plate has worn off. So if they are cheaper then s/s you might wan't to save some money.
    1 point
  6. 1973 Timex Marlin - This really was a diamond in the rough. The crystal probably needs replacing, but I managed to get the rather obvious dings and gouges in it smoothed out to the point where they are hardly noticeable, with the possible exception of the one over the day and the even more obvious one at half past one. I also gave it deep clean, followed by a quick service and replaced the sticking crown locking lever. These tend to wear to the point where you can no longer pull out the crown. I have managed to file them back to life, but I had a spare, so I just did a quick swap. It now winds, hands adjust, it runs, and you can easily see the time none of which was possible when it arrived. A fresh leather band replaced the insanitary hair puller, and it was fit to wear. I'll do the final tinkering and polishing once it has proved itself reliable, on my wrist for a couple of days.
    1 point
  7. japonicamarket is good, cheap, and accomodating about declared value. If you get a "whole lot" of Seiko 5 that will keep you busy for a good while, but there aren't many of these. Quartz, no name and ladie's lots go literally for pennies.
    1 point
  8. You need to see what clearance you have, this must include the dial the hands and if it has a bezel holding a glass. I’m sure you know nothing must be touching each other. Would it be possible to shorten the hour pipe and have good clearance from the dial.
    1 point
  9. What are you using to press the bezel back on? When you press it needs to be even pressure all around. As clockboy said make sure it is the correct glass.
    1 point
  10. The minute hand should be pinned on. Have a good look at that square to see if the pin has broken off and is still in the hole. You will also need a hand collet to go over the minute hand and then the tow are held in place with a pin, use a steel pin not brass.
    1 point
  11. Most of the cutting is done and here's the mockup. I cant decide on the stains to use but she's almost done! Hope I dont f**k it up.
    1 point
  12. This is a little different. German Keinzel automatic. Probably (hopefully) a Keinzel 21 jewel in house movement - I assume an 057/21d in which case it is probably late 1950s to pre 1963,
    1 point
  13. I have a full video on YouTube on how to make a balance staff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  14. More low cost fun. Just a little over three and a half quid each. My guess is, possible franken-dial, probably original and probably original. I spent more on two coffees and a couple of sticky buns in the supermarket cafe yesterday.
    1 point
  15. Get yourself a Unimat 3. It’s the only one I have and it does everything. Loads of accessories still available. The one I have has the milling attachment. Some good second hand ones on Ebay.
    1 point
  16. The watch companies are interesting ideally they would like you to replace the entire barrel. So for eta no mention of mainspring lubrication at all. Omega is suggesting for the 1140 the mainspring is different then the eta 2892-A2. The tech guide for the 3220 which I'm attaching gives a different newer number. Then with this number according to bestfit It will work in all those other watches none of which are a eta. so there doesn't appear to be a cross reference listing between Omega and eta suggesting there different mainspring is or just that we don't have a cross reference listing. Then the sending off those grooves and making a nice smooth barrel is not in your best interest if those were the grooves the factory put there in the first place. So lubrication guidelines images attached the recommended lubrication currently is KLUBER P125. Then there recommending surface treatment which Omega's really big on for the entire barrel other than the spring. Also the arbor is to be lubricated with HP 1300 which is the modern version of your D5. Also image attached if you purchased a brand-new barrel they do recommend lubricating the arbor from the outside. I'm attaching YouTube video links the first one is a test to see if your ball bearing assembly is working correctly. The second one explains what happens if the mainspring doesn't slip. Note the lubrication that he's using is different it's a Rolex lubricant none of us are ever going to get this and yes that is the proper quantity for the Rolex lubricant. Note do not apply that much lubrication if you're using something other then the Rolex lubricants you'll regret it. For instance if you use more of the P125 recommended you'll find out that it's a way way too sticky and it holds too well. 770/282 MAINSPRING 722322020102 OME 3220 OME 1138 OME 3602 OME 1140 OME 1141 OME 1143 OME 3601 http://www.primrosesupplies.com/Swiss Tech Guides/Omega tech Guides/3220.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kafxnxt0EZY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KNTrHVD088&t=
    1 point
  17. Have a look at this. This will give you an idea what you will need. Don't forget protect your eyes. I recommend you remove the watch movement. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Polish-Stainless-Steel-Watch-Basics-of-Poli/
    1 point
  18. I'm not expecting some "Magic Circle" type revelation. I was simply asking for advice as this is my first project and a little advice would help a lot. Naively, I have always thought that a forum is a place of public discussion and extending one's wisdom to others. In your case Sanctum may be a more appropriate word. I do apologise for the repetition of my enquiry but I simply forgot about my earlier posting. Unlike you who disdainfully referred to the "Fashion Watch" in both of your replies, despite already being aware of the sentimental value. I think an apology is most certainly in order on this occasion. I eagerly await your response.
    0 points
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