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Bought an upright tool off eBay and there was one problem, no bottom alignment rod. So, found a piece of stock Brass and carved it up on my Lathe. This is the result. The nails on one of the hinges were out and the hinge was rusted in place. So I used some small pointy watchmakers screws and replaced the nails. I then oiled the hinges and worked them in nicely. Next, the box fabric was unglued on the Tom so I lifted up the fabric and spread a light layer of Elmer’s glue between the wood and the black cloth: and put 4 magic books on top for an hour. Next step was to blacken the box as there were chips of cloth missing and it just looked tattered. So I used Kiwi Color shoe shine and it worked like a charm. Now I needed to shine up the cloth on the inside of the box the same was...and used a paintbrush for the corners bu dipping it in the show shine. Then I needed to clean up the red velvet on the inside so I used a lint role: as well as tearing off a piece for the tight spots. I also needed to clean up some aging mold sobthe line roll with some help with a fine screwdriver worker great. I then shoe polished where the mold was. The last step was to polish the Uprighting Tool using Peek and a lot of elbow grease. Here is the before and afterAnd the Final. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think the proper place for this would be in "watch repair questions and advice".

Carved it up on my Lathe.

acetone works good, but leaves a film that is easly removed with isopropinal. why naptha? vin

I do and I know others that do too, but not everyone agrees. Acetone breaks down dried oil better than naphta, but is nasty stuff and very flammable. I keep my bottle of it in the shed and oil put about 10 mils in a small jar to use inside One Dip solution would be best, but its very expensive. You will find there is no 'one way only' to do things, but many ways all with their pluses and minuses, you just need to choose the way that works best for you. The most important thing is to check the endstone is actually clean before oiling and assembling

Thanks! Great answers, I need to read them again to be sure I understand everything (English isn't my mother tongue) and practice them in the next few days. So you recommend acetone instead of naphta for these jewels?

Check the balance pivots for wear and the balance jewel cap stones for dirt. Do you have a watch machine if so what is the amplitude? Of course it could just be a weak mainspring, did it look set when you removed it?

I just have a tiny jar with acetone in it. I drop the incabloc setting into it, leave it for a minute or two then swirl them around in the jar by gently swirling the jar and lift them up into a glass bowel that has watch paper in it to help wick away the acetone. If needed I hold them with tweezers and give them a puff or two from my blower. Some times you can find the cap jewel stuck into the fitting due to old oil 'gluing' it in, so it may need longer in the acetone to separate, and if it is really stuck and after several cleaning still won't come out you may need to use an old balance staff to push it out by fitting it through the jewel hole and pushing on the cap jewel. Once cleaned be sure to inspect the cap jewel as it may still have old oil stuck to it. If it does get some peg wood sharpened to a point and hole the cap jewel with tweezers and gently rub off the old oil with the peg wood, then clean it again and inspect and if still dirty repeat. Mark has a great video on YouTube showing you how to oil and assemble incablock settings. I try to keep rodico away from cleaning solutions as you may find the naphta will start to disolve it and leave you with even more mess to clean. I only use acetone to clean the balance and cap jewels as it is pretty nasty stuff, I use naphta (Shelite in Australia) as my rinse after cleaning with a watch cleaning solution, but if you are just starting out naphta will do for it all.

Question about ladies movements. Oh those sort of movements.

I've not worked on one of these but a quick Google and the found pics show it as an indirect centre seconds movement. These almost always have a tension spring of some kind that acts on the seconds pinion to prevent the jittery motion of the seconds hand. In the above you can see circled in red a screw that passes through the centre seconds cock and appears to bear on a flat spring. My guess is that that is the tension spring and the tension is adjusted with the screw. try turning the screw to increase the tension on the centre seconds pinion until the jittering just stops. You may need to lubricate the contact between the spring and the pinion if you haven't already done so. The tension needs to be just enough to smooth out the motion of the hand whilst keeping loss of amplitude to a minimum (there will be some loss, it's unavoidable).

That's reassuring to know, they internally have the same disagreements on lubrication as the rest of the watchmaking world ?

If you can afford the Etic, then go for it - I melted mine by leaving it plugged in and mistakingly setting a book on top of it which pressed the button down :D I since purchased one of the Chinese ones to see what it was like and it works just fine. The Elma I have in my video is an electronic one and it is good but IMO seems to do no better than the cheap chinese one, it is just very convenient to use.

I have had many brands of Tweezers over the years and always keep coming back to Dumont. Size 5 or 4 for hairspring work. Size 2 For general work. I personally have no use for any other size apart 5, 2 and from my brass tweezers which are around size 3.