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Still working and keeping good time.

I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Not long been back from Thailand. Love the place. Been 3 times now. Did Island hopping, lot of sea fishing - fresh fish with Thai food every day. The fish we caught we gave excess to t he locals and t he hotel chef cooked meals for 4 for 300Bhat. Cool! Have a great holiday Mark.

A faceted crystal has ..faces but not a lip. Seiko did not use glue often, and the crystal will not leave by pushing with a thumb. Fortunately, Seiko helps watch repairers by classifying and documenting the case construction, here we have an "A" as stamped on the case back. Attached the guide. A good discussion is at https://www.plus9time.com/seiko-case-back-information BTW, I recommend the OP to use the "Watch Repairs Help & Advice" section when it's repair question like this. One advantage is that there answers can be rated and marked as resolving. 1982.03 Seiko Case Servicing Guide.pdf

Just started cutting this clock. I'm posting pics as I go to give me inspiration as well as motivation. Its not going as fast as other things I've done but it'll get there. For now it''ll have a quartz movement as I already have them sitting in a drawer soemwhere. When I see the dimensions of the finished product I'll see if I can squeeze a real cuckoo clock movement in the next generation if I'm still into watches and clocks by then.

Hmmm, kind of! But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking. After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle). I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament. Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first). Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.

Guess that is an pocket watch with a press fit canon pinion? You probably need a staking set and gently tap it out. (P.S . Nexttime just post in the Watch Repairs Help & Advice, makes everything easier)

What size (diameter) is the dial? I might have a spare if you want to have another try

Good spotting one actually can see the nr 5 trying to switch over but got stuck..

These tiny movements can be a real challenge. As to the dial, it is all too easy to do. I cleaned a nasty green mark off one and settled back to admire my handiwork, only to then realize I had also removed part of the word "Swiss"

synthetic 0w20 motor oil.I have had good results with it. I have tried ATF , but it is too thin. I have tried hypoid gear oil, but it is too thick.now mind you I don't work on anything too expensive. according to the viscosity chart 0w20 and 0w30 have a thickness very similar to moebius oils used for general lubrication.

This little cocktail watch was an eBay non-runner. I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and worn barrel arbour, fixed a bend in the hairspring, reduced the hole size in the minute hand, new crystal . And I also did some dynamic poising. I've got it running within 15secs per day in all positions. It's by far the tiniest movement I've worked on. Everything else seems comparatively huge now! The only annoying thing is I accidentally rubbed off the Omega logo whilst attempting to clean the dial

My apologies, thank you JDM!

in any event; it must be time to take it apart? there is some very good timex repair posts on this forum. vin

"Andrew The Hatton" from the mid 1950s finally got a little of the much needed TLC I promised it, when I was waiting for it to arrive back in December. Sporting what I think is a Amida caliber 553 17 jewel variant, it is a bit of a rarity I think (rare ≠ valuable however). I'm probably wrong however, so any better guesses are welcome. It obviously still needs a crystal, and got a more thorough scrub and polish after I took these pictures, as I clearly didn't make a perfect job of it the first time. The marks on the dial were there when it arrived, and I haven't dared to even think about cleaning the dial yet. I'll probably leave that well alone. Another non-runner, needing the usual clean and service. It seems to be running reasonably fine around +40s/day, although the error is a little high for my liking at 3ms or so. I'll wear it and keep an eye on it for the next 24 hrs just to be sure it has survived my servicing efforts unscathed. I thought you might like to see my patented case back opener. aka a short length of carpet tape. This stuff is scarily sticky, so it makes an ideal substitute for the no doubt very expensive bespoke opener that adorned the shelves of the original service centers back in the day. It also doesn't leave any sticky residue. If this hadn't done the trick, I was going to superglue a nut on the case back, another useful trick to avoid marring things when you don't have the custom case back opener you require. If it keeps ticking for the next day or so, I'll spring for a crystal for it (which may represent a doubling of the cost of my "investment" ).

It was the wrong pipe size for the pivot. I gave it a gentle squeeze until it gripped just enough to hold the hand in place. I can also take some pictures and try to show the wear I mentioned.

Hello Mark, Neat set up.Thanks for sharing Have a great holliday.

I found some additional information you might find useful. Then on page 7 of the PDF it talks about the application. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/files/security_sheet/tinf_8980-8981-8982_fixodrop_es-bs_en.pdf https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=fixodrop BHI The Practical Lubrication of Clocks and Watches Version 2008.0.pdf

Yup. Afraid everything needs to come apart to access the barrel. Back AND front.

Well abused Elbon.DIY leather strap.

You're serious? Must be a bit of culture shock. Is there a decent tin of Spam available?

A break from filming is acceptable, the print your own dial was the one I was eagerly awaiting so no pressure on the next strip and clean. Next week will do.

Yes fully wound but won't run due to dirt or lack of lubrication, run it immersed in naphtha. Dial and hands removed. That ought to clean out the dirt and old sludge.Then run it again if the fluid is dirty. let dry ,lubricate sparingly pay attention to the hairspring when doing so the watch wont run if it is not completely dry.

Is proper tension applied to the seconds pinion? Did you oil it?

I'm trying to find the value of this watch but I cannot find it on Ebay or the other sources I normally use. Video and picture of watch

Try pushing it out with your fingers you will soon find out. Just be careful.

The only sure way is to remove the movement from the case and inspect. It looks like a vintage and possibly glued just a hard push and it will pop out. If the crystal has a lip you will need a crystal lift tool. It is water resistant NOT water proof so it is highly unlikely to have a tension ring crystal.

A recently serviced 7750 with a broken mainspring should raise an eyebrow or two, I would have made a complete overhaul while being at it. You can access it from the back but the amount of junk you have to take away makes it not worth for example leaving stuff on the train Wheel bridge to cut some work. I guess you already got the service manual but I attache it here anyway just for the public interest 7750 Service Manual.pdf