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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/19/19 in all areas

  1. I just press the tip of the hand down at the center of the 12 marker with a finger as I push on the plunger. With the hour and minute counters I just adjust the alignment by rotating the plunger as I'm pressing down. Also you might hear some people tell you to hold the reset button in as you install the hands. Does nothing here so save yourself the effort. It does press the hammer into the hour recorder but only the hour recorder, and when you let go of the reset and the brake comes to mesh with the teeth on the hour recorder wheel chances are the hand will be shifted out of alignment.
    2 points
  2. Just moved house which has meant a workshop/studio rebuild It's coming together but a lot to do still... will get back to videos real soon Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  3. Hmmm, kind of! But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking. After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle). I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament. Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first). Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
    1 point
  4. If you are in no hurry I could stripp one keyless down and make a small tutorial of it. I seldom use the Moebius 8000 anymore but put it on at request If one would buy some luricants and don't bother about the mainspring it would be a setup like this.. Fine oil Moebius 9010 - On the escapement parts (It's here you can use Moebius 8000) Thick oil Moebius HP-1300 On the most other parts which needs to be lubricated Grease Moebius 9504 Like on the winding pinion and so on.. Special for pallet stones Moebius 9415.
    1 point
  5. A word of encouragement: I retired and moved into a new home in August of 2005. I lost my favorite microphone. Finally purchased a replacement after 3 weeks of searching. I found the old one last week. What season is this in Taiwan?
    1 point
  6. The blade handle on the left is attached to the honing mechanism lever via a spring-loaded bearing. The nickel plated blade on the right side is attached to the honing bar that slides on the red leather strop. The grey honing stone is part of the closing lid. The leather strop and the hone lids are not interchangeable as the blade needs to push against the hone but pull against the strop. The blade has a safety guard with pivot action that allows it to vary the shaving angle while providing safe operation. The head of the blade handle locks perpendicular to the blade using a slide type of action with the spring-loaded bearing providing additional stability Sheesh! That was gleaned from Wiki. Fascinating contrivance! I've never encountered such a thing. Good find!
    1 point
  7. Looking good so far, I am currently re-jigging my workshop so I can do Watch repairs and also get started with level two of your Watch repair course.
    1 point
  8. Most destroy the first watch they touch, the rest won't admit it.
    1 point
  9. Quartz movements make me cringe.you could try flushing it out with a plastic safe electronic spray cleaner. I have had mixed success with it. Don't hit it with a full force blast , just let it sort of dribble through you will be surprised at the gunk you wash out. let it dry in the sun.
    1 point
  10. Hi bernie, May need just a clean. To kick start, put some lighter fluid on jewels/ holes of the gear train you can reach, push an accessible wheel to make it go. Any evidence of water/ moisture having got to the EB? Water ruins the EB and it behaves as you described, not repairable.
    1 point
  11. I should have mentioned the correct holder also supports the centre arbour which is important when fitting tight hands which is the normal scenario with chrono's
    1 point
  12. You need the correct movement holder which allows you to depress the the chrono button whilst fitting.
    1 point
  13. Hi J, Sorry for my late response. For some reason I had thought I replied, old age. My view is one of a collector. The movement looks in mint condition, seems to me dial has had better complexion in youth. I would not sell. Best wishes.
    1 point
  14. I suspect it is fully wound, and simply doesn't run. Probably in need of a clean.
    1 point
  15. Looks like it’s based on and shares many parts with a Peseux 7020, but is 11.5 lignes instead of 10.5 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=LP_78
    1 point
  16. Vetus quite famous and reliable nowadays.
    1 point
  17. yes; this is a very good tool. IF you ever work on vintage watches.
    1 point
  18. Talking about the crystal press with he flat dyes. They are cheap from amazon. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. Even if the most of us use Moebius lubricants you can find the Novostar lubrication chart here on page 251. Tools-2017AFCatalogue.pdf
    1 point
  20. Hi I have attached the Moebius oil chart for your reference useful for the future Moebius Oil_Chart.pdf
    1 point
  21. What sort of watches do you want to work on? Pocket watches? Mechanical Wristwates? Auto or Manual? Quartz watches? Pocket watches and wrist watches have some oils that are used on both of them, but also different oils too. To get all the oils and greases you use will set you back a couple of hundred dollars. A not extensive list of oils abd greases are: Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches. Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth. A quality silicon grease for case gaskets Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work). Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work. Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction). Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring on manual wind watches But when starting out just get Moebius 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200, you can add the rest as time goes on
    1 point
  22. flipping the jewel will stop the watch if the balance pivots are healthy since it will add to the height and close up the end shakes. Pressing firmly should stop the BW so another sign of healthy end shake. I think you can chock this up to a piece of debris that could have came from anywhere, the air, your oiler, your hand, or it just may have survived the cleaning process. I call these "watch gremlins." They sneak their way in usually by trojan horse(i.e oiler) and wreak havoc without being seen or heard. practices to avoid this: -keep all watch parts in a container with a lid when assembling and disassembling. -wear gloves or cocks. nitrile is best, resistant to static. -always stab your your tweezers, driver, oilers, pretty much anything you stick into a movement in pith wood. (i.e oil a pivot, stab pith wood, oil next pivot, stab pith wood) you must clean the oiler between each oiling. as you are moving that oiler through the air, it can pick up the tiniest bit of dust that is floating in the air. -work on watches in a still air environment, no fans, ac, air ducts, in front of windows, any place where there is air flow. I always find that my basement is best, very still air. - when oiling use very high magnification, 10-15x to see any particle that may have attached itself to the oil -always dip your oiler on the edge of the oil pool, dust will collect in the middle, and when your not using the oil cup keep it closed. - constantly take movement and blow with compressed air while your working esp, before oiling, a piece of dust can make its way into movement by just simply sitting on your bench for 10 seconds without cover. do this again when movement is fully assembled. none of these are guaranteed solution but will definitely lower the risk of contamination
    1 point
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