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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/19 in all areas

  1. Yes there was some monocoque cases too , almost forgott about those. Guess it's a 505 in that beauty? (I'm not at all biased )
    2 points
  2. Hello everyone! Just recently starting investing into better watch making tools and wanted to get more involved with forums (specifically about watch making). Some of you guys might know me from Youtube and Instagram. Just a quick introduction! I've been working on watches for about two years now I believe. Mostly on Seiko watches since the amount of parts available is so vast. I've learned everything myself through reading material online and just getting myself involved. Learning from my mistakes was the biggest help for sure. Like most people, I started with more affordable tools, which helped me become extremely careful and detailed since the calibration of the tools were horrible. I've now seriously invested in quality tools since I am working on watches much more frequently (as a hobby) and wish to learn more about them and their usages/maintenance! Thanks for reading and I'm excited to join this forum! -Eric
    1 point
  3. Yes it's a 3133 chronograph. I'm more intrested in the dial. What version and dating that one. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  4. May I guess the Reliance could have Lorsa ? Possibly a P72 or P72A ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. When I get the 5 star I'll open her up and we can look at it Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  6. Ranfft says its a record which longine acquisitioned, yours should be recod or longine 508 .mine is to change date by repeated pushing it dosn,t , you guys have a pic of the date jumper?
    1 point
  7. How do you wind it?
    1 point
  8. I don,t know the caliber, but think its an in-house longine make. Pic of min only date. Not solid gold. Sorry for the late response guys. Regards
    1 point
  9. I thought NuceJoe would say the caseing on this one is unique he usually has a sharp eye, I haven't seen it before since the most of these came with an 18k gold case. Depending on what year the watch was produced it came with a range of different movements, here is a selection.. calibre 340 calibre 501 calibre 506 calibre 507 calibre 508 calibre L 636.5 calibre 1753 calibre 6651 Since your watch looks like a 70's piece I would guess it should have a calibre 50X inside, but this is a tricky one..
    1 point
  10. Hey All, I thought I'd share the plans for making watch hand setters. I wasn't able to get any cheaply or easily so I decided to make my own. A note of caution, turning small diameter PVC is a pain. I was able to after much trial and error, but the accuracy was pretty bad. To be fair I was using an enormous 13x48" engine lathe with a 3jaw chuck and HSS tools ground for steel so your results may vary. Design is based on pictures of other watch setters I found on the internet. I chose 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm and blunt tips. Cheers, Watch Hand Setter Drawing.pdf
    1 point
  11. Just to add to your note about shipping. You do have the option to self-clear, or basically to act as your own broker. This allows you to order from UPS/FEDEX/DHL without getting completely hosed. They SUPER hate it and they've always just done the paperwork for me for free instead of letting me self clear. If you have a Canadian customs office nearby this would be a great option. Tutorial: http://trueler.com/2010/11/24/self-clear-shipment-cbsa-avoid-ups-brokerage-fee/ As a general rule though, I avoid UPS and FEDEX like the plague they are. CanadaPost is a joyous place in comparison.
    1 point
  12. But as a WILD A$$ GUESS ?maybe an eta 2758.or something similar
    1 point
  13. the reliance will likely have a seiko movement akin to the 66..The ones I have seen were sold by croton as their budget line, something like a caravelle by bulova.
    1 point
  14. this here is watch repair. a very good hobby if you have a little mechanical ability. Lawyers : they should put a bounty on them.
    1 point
  15. Claim against whom? For your watch to be known and copied you would have to sell in the thousands. I whish you can get there first, then worry about imitations later.
    1 point
  16. Different countries have different laws. To be safe I would get professional advice.
    1 point
  17. Thanks for the help guys i've ordered one from Cousins hopefully be ok cheers Andy
    1 point
  18. You can use both, too tight and too loose hands. Tighten as advised above. Or open the hole with a small broach. Both are every day tasks when changing second hands, even with the right size. Frank
    1 point
  19. Here you get the data too if it will not open for you Nucejoe. https://www.boley.de/en/case-parts/seiko/33454.7t62-0fd0?p=446&s=50&l=18
    1 point
  20. Tweezers are separated not only by material but by whats called style, how the tips are formed. Found this old drawing on my computer....
    1 point
  21. Enjoy em in good health, I would post a query for advice on how to the longine dial, or have it cleaned.Unless experienced you shouldn,t attack the dial. Best wishes.
    1 point
  22. All of these watches are mine. I'm just waiting on them to be shipped. Plus alot of seikos as well. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  23. The five star admiral Longines, looks genuine, original hands, dial. Good brand. Evidence of moisture inside the case therefore the movement. I would remove the back, peak inside, send picture and test the set mech, winder. Moisture damage to the dial, greately reduces the value. Aprox $350 The vulcain, dial is looks suspecious, examine close see if painted, see if the word swiss appear at six oclock. $30 Tissot, check the extend of water and other damges inside, $25 Seiko chrono aprox $150 Between the two of us, take ths GUB home, very liitle work. Best of the herd. Don,t know a price. The Russian one, just that its chrono. Values not much. My appraisal is usually ignored.
    1 point
  24. Well, I'm going to order a new balance and then I'll fix the hairspring. Thankfully I've done this once already on an older movement after watching Marc's video on that. I hope that I'm able to get it running eventually, but you're right, there may be even more troubles lurking down below that make it not worth repairing, especially since I can buy another 103 movement relatively cheaply.
    1 point
  25. This may help https://www.thewatchsite.com/21-japanese-watch-discussion-forum/1677-crystal-codes-seiko.html
    1 point
  26. Its a beaut. Im still waiting on your changes for the case. I have the new printer set up and the cnc machine ready and zi have brass stock coming. The only thing im thinking will be a challenge is the screw back case. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  27. No problem, No bother. do a search on the bay. vintage mens 17 jewel watch , thousands will pop up.look through them ,you will find what you need.Alternately you could try speedtimerkollektion.I would tell you to get a whole movement that is sold as needing service. I t will be cheaper and easier than buying one piece at a time.
    1 point
  28. On one of Marc's videos, he found this had been done at the factory on a new movement (chinese?)
    1 point
  29. Tne tension ring can be replaced and installed easy. You may find crystal with ring in it hard to install, the tension ring jumps out if pressed. I have got some Genuine seiko crystals, well I have got bunch of genuine most parts. Give diameter and height, I will dig in my bag of tricks. Regards
    1 point
  30. The balance staff needs replacing. The hairspring needs to be sorted. Someone has been digging around to compensate for the wear of the staff. Even if you got hold of a complete balance, you still might have trouble, all due to someone’s shoddy work.
    1 point
  31. So I removed the gouges under the pallet fork cock as best I could and installed the forks and cock. Now down from scary amount of endplay to "i guess" amount. I think I'm going to order a new balance staff and fix the hairspring. Those seem like the next two best bets for fixing this. I case anyone is wondering, I think this thread is becoming partially a diary of my progress in getting this watch working. Hopefully it'll help someone else down the road, regardless if it turns our negative or positive. I super appreciate all comments/advice as I'm only on my second month of watch repair. I also can't stress enough to just go out and get a stereomicroscope. It's a complete game changer to be able to see ever important detail of the watch. And don't go get an amscope. Find an old Bausch and Lomb. I've used both and the amscope is a fight every time for me, where my bauch and lomb is clear and easy to use.
    1 point
  32. I'm pretty certain that no Russian watches were ever issued to their armed forces, or any watches for that matter. Vostok were the appointed supplier I think, but they were supplied to their equivalent of the NAAFI to be purchased privately. So it is not an issued watch. Other nations also adopted this policy, Portugal (Berlan), India (HMT) etc
    1 point
  33. One thing for sure, no Grunt ever wore it in the field. The case doesn't remotely resemble anything put out by vostok, which it is apparently trying to imitate.My guess? Chinese Knock off trying very hard to convince you it's something it isnt.
    1 point
  34. Obviously I cannot vouch for its authenticity, but in my limited experience, these watches tend to be conversation pieces rather than ex military. I did find another example in new condition which had been offered for sale on ebay by a US seller in "new unworn condition" which suggests that they might be a retail item rather than special issue. According to that listing, the text reads as follows.... On the top of the rim: ЗАЩИТНИКУ - to a defender On the bottom of the rim: ОТЕЧЕСТВА - of the Fatherland On the dial plate: Спецназовские - of (or belonging to) Special Forces You never know if it is genuine, I guess it might be. I do know that HMT produced civilian and armed forces versions of various models of their watches, for example the "Jawan" (soldier in Hindi) which differed simply in the fact that the armed forces versions had a broad arrow on the dial and/or case back. The mechanism being identical to their various other versions. Needless to say, backstreet aftermarket Indian dial re-painters tend to add the dial arrow and/or inscribe the case back with an arrow (sometimes very crudely) as it supposedly increases the "rarity value". I also know that Fortis produced watches for the Russian Cosmonauts, and also civilian versions of the same watch, so these things are generally a little bit of both additional credibility and marketing gimmick. Fortis watches are generally well made, but like most watches, rely in the main on high end versions of standard movements. What it all boils down to is, can you research a connection between that watch, and the Russian special forces. If not, then the watch is purely about bragging rights. Even if you can connect the two, the watch, like any other is worth precisely what you are willing to pay for it, not a penny more and not a penny less.
    1 point
  35. Dpastl, if you're using that on Rolexes, it is probably good enough for anything I'll get my hands on (no pun intended)! That is the butt end of a center punch, I'm guessing.
    1 point
  36. Ha, that's so simple I wish I would have thought of that! My first attempt was using pegwood with a hole drilled in it, but it just bent the hands :(.
    1 point
  37. Hello I am amature watch tinkerer. I am from the DC area. I joined to be able learn more about the watches the movements inside. I am sorry this is a short introduction.
    1 point
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