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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/19 in Posts

  1. AS 1187 movement generic Hong Kong case.Dial decal printed on IJP. Franken for sure,but a fun experiment in spare parts.
    3 points
  2. 3 points
  3. It would have been far better to leave it alone and not to remove it. It should be friction tight. By removing, you might have opened the hole and not realising it, the metal is quite soft. A couple of things to look out for with these movements. Both are to do with the balance and its working. 1, the pivots on the balance are prone to wear and become blunt, you can compare the pivots to a blunt pencil to a sharp one, when worn the action of the balance will be poor. 2, the cups that the balance tips sit in can also wear and become scored inside again causing poor action, these can be re-faced or better still re-place them. It is very hard to sharpen the balance tips without a lathe.
    2 points
  4. Yes they can get sideways on you pretty easily.very frustrating.let's see if I can explain how I do this.assemble everything correctly. With the stem in place. With the keyless works in the winding position loosen the retaining screw and remove the stem.This gives the parts less wiggle room.Place the movement in the case.. while reciting the proper chants and incantations very gently insert the stem..You will get it.just be patient.
    1 point
  5. Yes, unfortunately it’s a movement specific solution but I’m a bit of a tool fanatic so I don’t mind a tool for every task (within reason)
    1 point
  6. Yes you totally can there are lots of videos on youtube showing making castings from PLA everything from making epoxy casts to metal casts in Aluminium. One I found particually interesting is what they call "metal cold casting" they mix metal shavings (brass,iron,aluminium,etc) in epoxy to make a finished product that looks like metal and can be polished like metal, but I guess is a bit like MDF is to wood.
    1 point
  7. Today's watch, fresh from the healing bench is a Citizen 21 Jewel "Parawater" (so most probably from 1971). It arrived looking a little miserable, and struggling to tick. I took a quick look at it shortly after it arrived, and got it going, but I wasn't 100% happy with it, so it received a little more TLC, and is going considerably better. I might be able to get the beat error down a fraction more, but since I decided to quit while I was ahead. The date changer is also working correctly now too. Now that it is running reasonably well, and has survived a day on my wrist without complaining, I'm might see if I can bring back a bit more of the original shine.
    1 point
  8. The 7S26 movement has been claimed. It will be in the mail to its new owner tomorrow.
    1 point
  9. Sure, print in plastic, make a sand mold or vulcanize with some rubber to make a rubber mold . Or you can get printable wax and then do the lost wax thing....that opens open new doors and being wax you can work the piece, add to it etc before casting, it has a lot of possibilities. You could even use it for the mold itself, depending on the material being cast
    1 point
  10. If you’re handy you might be able to replicate this handy tool. Rolex make a “casing up” movement holder. It has a pin to engage the stem release and a bump to grab a notch in the movement so it locks in. You never need to flip the movement or case upside down. Horia make them too: https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Stem-pusher/Tool-for-removing-stem-for-cal-ETA-2824-2.html
    1 point
  11. It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
    1 point
  12. Yes but mine is this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600X-3-6MP-USB-Digital-Microscope-4-3-Display-LCD-Electronic-HD-Video-Stand-Kit/183572621415?epid=21026543881&hash=item2abdc7e867:g:kdMAAOSwM7Fcqz8d Using it as in the pic, you are working on the small base area. If you turn the whole lot around as if you are looking at the back and then turn the screen and scope around to face you, you are not restricted to working on that small base. At that though it will be top heavy so you need to place a counter balance weight on the little base to stop it falling over. I also work off a piece of yellow card marked with datum lines so I can focus the scope and place tiny parts exactly in the spot under the scope. If that doesn't help I'll have to set it up and post a pic. (Nearly forgot to add the pics, video and battery life are excellent. Reckon my battery lasts about 6 hours)
    1 point
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