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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/19 in all areas

  1. It's time to get back to working on my Fusee clock and finish the new barrel for it. Although I could manage without making this tool I decided it was worth making to ensure I get the endshake correct. I wanted to measure the distance between the bushes inside the clock barrel and obviously you cant use a vernier for that. That's where this tool comes in. Its a pretty simple tool. The threaded rod is a 6BA steel threaded rod I had lying around and I turned up 2 brass ends. The one on the left is only threaded for about 10mm and the rod is screwed and Loctited into it. The one on the right is threaded for the first 10mm and then just clearance drilled the rest of the way. I did this as my taps are not long enough to tap the whole length. The shoulders of the brass ends are 7.5mm diameter with the narrow parts 5.5mm diameter. The idea is this can be used on any barrel that the pivots are larger than 7.5mm. Before I get onto how to use it I will quickly show how I tap small threads like this. The picture below shows my lathe fitted with a drill chuck in the tail stock and held in the drill chuck is a steel rod that I drilled and reamed to give it a smooth bore. I then turned up the tap holder with the shank to the size its a nice smooth fit into the bore. The end of the tap holder is drilled to be a good fit on the tap shank size, knurled to give you some grip and then a grub screw hole is cross drilled and tapped and a grub screw fitted, so when you slide in the tap the grub screw is tightened up on one of the flats of the square on the end of the tap. The drill chuck and reamed tube hold the tap in line for tapping and as you screw the tap in by hand it slides in the tube so no stress is put onto the new threads being cut. You can obviously also use this in a drill press. A closer shot of two tap holders and the sleeve, they are each made for different size taps Measuring tool in use. The shoulder of the left side is sat against the shoulder of the bush inside the barrel and the other brass end is gently wound out until it is touching the shoulder of the other bush, then the 6BA nut is done up against it to stop it slipping, you then remove it from the barrel and use your verniers to measure the gap between the shoulders on the measuring tool. I can now ensure that my new barrel will have the same amount of endshake as the old barrel, yes I could of worked it out without making this tool, but its always fun making new tools.
    4 points
  2. Cheap pocket watches or desk clocks would be your best bet, preferably two of the same, advantage of two of the same are many.
    1 point
  3. NO the case numbers unfortunately are not linked in anyway to the movement or the Camerer company. That is a stock number for dennison and serial number is for the movement. Its really difficult to say because at the time rolex was a brand not a company. Rolex didnt make anything. Watch retailer such as Camerer and W&D would source watch parts, cases and movements from various ebauches makers which is why its so hard to date them, not to mention the aftermarket additions of the rolex name making it even worse. I did find some info that Camerer did retail pocket watches using the Aegler "reddberg" movement but its not verified info. And I cant find any signed as Reddberg. I only see the one like you pictured signed Camerer. The rolex Brand was owned by Aegler and trademarked by him, so if camerer did use movements supplied by Aegler, which again was a swiss based manufacturer should not have the rolex logo if produced pre-1926.
    1 point
  4. Ok that's not rebanking (the balance with amplitude over 330 and roller pin hitting opposite side of fork) and not overbanking (the fork slipping over to the wrong banking). [was it rebanking before in the flat postition? the first vid it looked fine...] It just has almost zero amplitude in that position. You need to check that it has safe lock. Rotate the balance manually until an escape tooth just drops off one of the pins, and see that the next tooth lands on its locking face on the next pin. Then, in that position, check that if you push the fork toward the balance roller, the tooth stays locked. You have some adjustment on the fork by bending that piece where the pins mount. If there is tons of sideshake on the balance/fork/escape wheel the lock needs to be deeper as the adjustment will change in different positions. If the escapement seems good then check the pivots, particularly the balance and fork pivots. They may need to be refinished. Perhaps run a smoothing broach in their holes. Don't enlarge the holes! For your mainspring, you can figure out the number of turns necessary by counting the teeth on the driving wheel on the barrel and dividing that by the pinion leaves in the canon pinion. From the photos that shows 72/18 which means 4 hours per turn. My Generale Ressorts book shows a spring for BFG cal. 640 with 23mm barrel at 1.90 x 0.24 x820 (closest they have to your 1.80 height spring), which should give a number of winds of 8.7 turns (this page is excellent for mainspring calcs), which means a reserve of 35 hours. In order to get 8 days you'd need a spring 0.045mm thick and 4.3meters long. Even a Lecoultre 101 doesn't have a spring that thin. Either my observations are absolutely off or the facon 8 jours printed on the dial means just that, in French, "8 day style".
    1 point
  5. Welcome and enjoy the journey and forum.
    1 point
  6. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
    1 point
  7. polishing pivots will definitely help but i dont think your gunna see 50 degree increase in amplitude since all pivots and jewels have been clean and oiled. i dont really like the wood with rouge or oil method, i use a sapphire burnisher with some clock oil. but if you dont have $100 to spend on a burnisher use popsicle stick with clock oil. do this: with watch running gently press on the top balance endstone with pegwood. keyword "gently." does it stop the balance when you do this? YES? too little end shake. if it does not stop then press harder (not too hard) on the end stone does the balance stop: NO? then you have too much end shake. also check the shock spring. sometimes i have seen these things way too flat with no "spring" in them cause upper jewel to sit loose in the cock causing fluctuations in different timing positions. when the spring is removed it should slightly pop just like anytime you remove tension from a spring. but not fly off just sorta "pop." another thing to look at is tightening balance cock screw i had a few movements that werent running right and i added a little more torque to the balance screw and bam was running perfect. if that screw is not properly torqued the top and bottom jewel holes may not be exactly perpendicular and/or giving too much end shake. in some cases slightly removing a tiny bit of torque can solve too little end shake, but in more extreme cases shims will be needed since the balance screw should never be too loose or have too little torque.
    1 point
  8. Wow. Thank you for great information.. I guess there are a lot that I am not aware of in the world of watches...It is a pity that this is not a genuine Rolex.. But I really thank your generosity for sharing your knowledge.
    1 point
  9. Hi, Welcome, Lookin forward to making friends and learning from you. Joe
    1 point
  10. Update: Finished assembling the movement today. The amplitude is a lot better now, but i guess it should be around 270? I have not oiled the pallet jevels yet, because i don’t have the right oil (only moebius 9010 and d5) but have read that this will increase the amplitude a bit. Is that right? And what kind of oil should i buy, moebius 941? Thanks for all the help. This is actually the first watch i have serviced. I have only been messing around and experimented with russian movements, with no hell earlier. So i am quite happy Latest readings:
    1 point
  11. The movement looks to be based on the Baumgartner 677 series, with no shock protection to speak of, and what someone described as a "rather agricultural rate" of 17280 bph - I have no idea about the lift angle, so I estimated at 52 degrees, which will be in the right ball park. It arrived with the minute hand rattling about under the crystal and suffering from damp ingress, probably condensation rather than a dip in the sea. Its construction is pretty basic, so there is no dust or water protection to speak of. This is a picture after the first cleanup and removal of most of the rust on the screws and winding gears. I dived in a little deeper after this. There are no jewels to worry about, so it got a liberal dousing of kerosene and the pinion "bushings" got a poke with some nylon toothbrush bristles. They are collectible, but I doubt if there is any significant value in it. Unscrupulous sellers sometimes advertise them as WWII pilot watches or even trench watches, but they are neither. The factory was based in Croydon, and manufactured these from just after the second world war to the early 1960s. I believe they also sold other brands like Avia, and later Swatch. The company name, like a lot of others seems to have risen phoenix like from the ashes at least once, and a "Newmark" produced some much more recent watches. I'm not sure what the connection between the recent offerings and the original Newmark company is, if any. These watches were low end, and pretty popular. Similar to Smiths, Timex, Westclocks and the like. One more thing, if you like your watches to tick comfortingly loud, then this is the watch for you. I was surprised how accurate it still appears to be after nearly seventy years. Not bad for a bit of "agricultural machinery".
    1 point
  12. Possibly something is wrong with either the lower pivot or stone, these have have to be examined with an high magnification loupe, if not a microscope. Check balance end-shake also. Since you can have the watch running reliably even if it's impaired in one positions, it's really up to you to decide if giving more effort, which can be significant, to this one or move on to the next.
    1 point
  13. A little update: Stripped down the movement, cleaned the pivotholes with pegwood and ran the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. I then lubricated the old mainspring and put it back together. Assembled the wheels and bridge and oiled the pivots. That’s all for now, and i think the wheels are spinning good. Will keep you updated. On the last picture, movement before cleaning to the left, cleaned to the right. 31768034-B766-45D1-9651-97CD42749D8F.MOV
    1 point
  14. I've got this small bench unit (Chinese TM-2) time ago and I'm very happy with it. Finally I've added a wooden base/organizer and an alloy screen, I think it looks the business.
    1 point
  15. That's the stuff to use then ! I remember the days when we used to almost bath in carbon tetrachloride. I remember watching my friends dad (who had a garage) changing brake pads and blowing the asbestos dust out with an air-line. Surprised I've lasted this long. I use large quantities of ethyl alcohol to flush the impurities out of my system
    1 point
  16. I too use it as a final rinse when using water based cleaners in my ultrasonic cleaner, not for it's de-greasing qualities, but being alcohol it absorbs any residual moisture and aids drying. Heed Bogdan's advice and never put anything with shellac in alcohol.
    1 point
  17. I knew I had a more recent Newmark. I just wound this and popped it on for comparison. This is probably early seventies, judging by the square styling. As I recall it is EB8800 based, so no longer "Made in England", but Swiss. The blue dial looks much better in real life than in this picture though.
    0 points
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