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Haha weeelll in my experience low amplitude is rarely due to the mainspring. But you did have the wrong height and the thickness could have been off a bit too, just 0.005mm makes a big difference.2 points
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I don't think the spring is broken, that's just the bridle overlapping itself and is normal. If you try to wind a spring in a barrel with the lid off, the coils WILL jump out. It's not a sign of a deformed spring. And it's a common method to get "backwards" springs in to use a winder one size too small, and transfer to the proper winder then barrel. And if original is 1.2mm high, it's pretty certain that's the correct height. Many barrels will show signs of rubbing after years of use, see above about coils jumping out. The lid and barrel bottom keep them in, they rub. As to the slipping issue, it is probably a combination of a worn barrel wall and incorrect grease. The 8217 is from the old Glissalube line, which changed designation to fit the numerical system Moebius uses. The 8213 (old Glissalube A) is strong braking, recommended for brass barrels. The 8212 (old Glissalube B ) is weak braking and recommened for aluminum barrels. The 8217 (old Glissalube 20) is considered "normal" braking but Moebius lists it as "soft" for all barrels. Some auto barrels have notches around the wall, some are smooth. Both can get worn to where they slip too easily. If it's your own watch, a rub around the inside with rough emery paper may do the trick. Going to a more "braky" grease could do it too. Maybe both, maybe you just need a new barrel and the more braky grease.2 points
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Video on Replacing a third wheel pinion on a Waltham Pocket Watch. The pinion and shaft/arbor are one piece of steel so a lathe and patience is required. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro1 point
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Hi *, I bought a few clock on ebay as a joblot and this one was one of them. I just love it. It was soaking in oil and dirt. I have already cleaned and oiled the music player part and the clock is thicking down at the moment, it has a broken alarm spring though. It has a thorens music player and I am not sure about the tune and about the comb of it. Both the comb and the cylinder has the number of 3477 so they belong together, my question: should the comb have all of the teeth or was it produced without some of the teeth? Ohh and I have the glass for the clock but it is missing for the ballerina, any idea how to get one? Or shall i just cut one from plexiglass? Best regards, Lui VID_dancing_balerina.mp41 point
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I was given some old tools recently. Just for amusement, I thought I’d share a picture of this, now I’ve cleaned it up and worked out what the calibration is. I was going to just tell you all the answer but let’s see if anyone can guess. The photo doesn’t quite show it clearly but the scale is marked 6, 12, 18, etc. Full travel is 72 which is about 13.5mm. By the way the prize is bragging rights not the calipers!1 point
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Hi I have enclosed the seiko oiling for the 6309a should not be much difference according to SCWF site. 24. 6309A.pdf1 point
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I actually prefer toothpicks for pegging jewel pivots as they are somewhat softer than peg wood. You can develop a sharpened tip with sandpaper or a fine file. I do sometimes use peg wood as well though. I use naptha as well in the ultrasonic. I run thru three separate naptha baths and pith the pivots on wheels, the pallet, and the balance into pith wood for cleaning between bath number two and three. It works for me but use at your own risk. RMD1 point
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Seiko recommended oils are listed in the service sheet, do you have it? If not, some member will be quick in attaching it here. Now, Seiko original lubricants can be bought on Ebay for a reasonable price, but more practically you would buy Moebious products, in fact Seiko doesn't even sell a Moebious "A", that is 9015, equivalent. In any case, there is nothing special about the 6139, just follow the general thread:1 point
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It's always best if you're going to change the subject to start a new discussion as you have a greater audience to answer your question.1 point
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Even current ones do have the same. So far it has been a dogma that the MS of an automatic mov.t has to slip virtually unhindered in the barrel, probably for fear that continued stress would break it something. However Nomos has now introduce in its DUW 601 a "rotor brake" system, that to say, no slipping anymore. https://www.watchtime.com/featured/nomos-caliber-duw-neomatik-6101/1 point
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Yes those are hand pliers, should work fine in spite of their rustiness. I put tape or the sticky part of post it notes on the inner jaws to protect the hands.1 point
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Ha I used to see these by the dozen, probably have one in a drawer somewhere. Won't spoil the game though!1 point
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Have you ever worked on an automatic watch? The whole thread is about the spring slipping prematurely, which, as explained above, can be due to numerous issues and some barrels have 6 or so notches (which are radiused) some are smooth. OP has smooth. It has worn through the original plating, showing brass. Moebius has a braking grease just for brass, which is incidentally their "strong" braking grease. It's all in the thread. OP also posted a pic of barrel without spring already btw.1 point
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Is it a black disc? This man has. can send thru me if he doesn't ship to Ireland. http://www.mehima-singh.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4661 point
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I disagree with any test, wind, count with lid off and barrel in open. MS can come out flying and hurt someone. I grease or whatever you want to do, instal the barrel with retaining bridge and ratchet wheel screwed on. -- wind through the ratchet say with your screw driver, listen close for the sound of power discharge from the barrel (it will discharge at some point). You want to count the number turns on the ratchet wheel so mark a dot on the wheel and count the number of turn the dot goes by. Dispower the barrel fully, wind again, stop winding just short of the number you counted before power discharge. Let the watch run on bench and note how long it runs to stop. That is the actual power reserve your watch retains. The main advantage of this approach is, that you can still see with your eyes. Both of them. Regards1 point
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Another dull spring day here in Perthshire, so here is a little golden sunburst in the form of a Timex 1967 Viscount selfwind (4047 3167) to cheer things up. Look out for another couple of Timexes soon. I picked up an Electric Dynabeat for mere £1.20 and another selfwind, both of which will hopefully join this specimen in the 404 club.1 point
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The crown at 3 O,clock reveled a culprit, as impact to the crown damaged the delicate return bar affecting the working of the set mech, To avoid impacts, the crown got hidden at 4 OClock position, this also eliminated the annoying push on wrist by the crown at 3. West end was quick to adapt the design, here is a sample of crown at 4.1 point
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I use T-Cut on a lot of clock cases made after 1930's as most were sprayed and not French polished. It gives a very nice shine by cutting away the grime, use the finest for the polished cases. I use a mid T-Cut for painted cases to start and then the fine to finish. This is one from my work, notice the marble affect is covered by years of grime. The black has had a quck run over with sandpaper to take off any rised bits (about 30 seconds 180 grit) This is the same clock and the only painting is the gold and the 4 green posts, the marble affect is like new as is the black. If the clock has bubbling from heat it will still work, however use a toothbrush.1 point
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Forgive this beginner question but what defines an improper instal?1 point
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I presume my estimate of early seventies for this watch is likely to be pretty close. I think is a rather neat little addition to the 404 club. Here are those to screws before I did the initial cleanup. I didn't take any pics of the case back, but it was pretty crusty too. Actually the whole watch was pretty crusty if truth be told. The 10 micron gold plating hasn't escaped completely unscathed, but by and large, it is pretty complete. I'll take another look at loosening those two screws tomorrow if I get a chance. It would be good to clean and service it properly, and give the dial a little gentle cleaning.1 point
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As you say, harvesting is a good option, but Cousins does sell these https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/hairspring-collets-pins-wristwatch?code=S373911 point
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You can unlock shock springs, pop the jewel assembly out ,into a jar, stick a tooth pick onto pivot, turn the BW, this pegs the hell out of the pivot. Repeat . Good luck pal.1 point
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These are Kif Duofix I think, and Seiko have a similar design called Diafix. Here's a video showing how to open and close them. As Marc said, the trick is to not remove the spring, but I made the same mistake a while ago when I first encountered them, thinking they are similar to Incablock, and you bend the legs inwards. I had nothing but trouble with them to be honest, even after I'd understood the right technique. Lost springs, lost cap jewels, broken springs. It is also very difficult to find spares. In the end I replaced the entire bridge, because I couldn't get the spring back in in one piece. Incablock is a dream by comparison. Here's a video showing how to open and close them. He gets down to business with the correct technique after 3:30, but the bit you need starts at 12:15. Good luck!1 point
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Glass fiber brushes won't really mark steel, and are effective for removing rust spots. They will mark non steel parts. I only use them on steel and as seldom as possible as the little broken fibers get EVERYWHERE.1 point
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everyone knows that red handles are superfine. it's in all of the watchmaking books. all of them. :D1 point