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Listening to it yes the comb has teeth missing hence the un recognisable tune.

This popped up on another site and was offered for sale. I took a long look at it but ultimately, decided that it just wasn't my style. Even so, I can appreciate the unusual design. Retro is fun.

For the crown, this is one of those rare occasions i would suggest WD40, quirt a very small amount in to a suitable container, apply a few drops to the crown and stem with a pin. Wait a day or so to see if it does the trick. Sewing machine oil may work, but it is not so good at penetrating the rust or gunk.

I have this hope/fantasy where the Greenies get behind this sort of problem....from watches to refrigerators, uniting consumers to insist that 1) products meet certain life span expectations, 2) products are made to be repairable and manuals and parts are available as a consumer right and 3) planned obsolescence either through reissueing with no benefit (Widget model A1 is discontinued, but A2 is just as good but isn't an exact replacement for A1) or intentionally designing things to shorten the product life is viewed kind of like bribing a government official....big trouble if you get caught. It would be good for the environment and boy, would the Environmentalist stock every go up

Safe removal is of importance. If screwdriver slips and damages the coil, more damge than good is done. Avoid pushing down on the screw hard, no force is neccessary. Use your thumb as a shield in between the screwdriver and coil., unscrew or even remove the screw, pop the battery out any way you deem safe, shield when replacing.

These are Kif Duofix I think, and Seiko have a similar design called Diafix. Here's a video showing how to open and close them. As Marc said, the trick is to not remove the spring, but I made the same mistake a while ago when I first encountered them, thinking they are similar to Incablock, and you bend the legs inwards. I had nothing but trouble with them to be honest, even after I'd understood the right technique. Lost springs, lost cap jewels, broken springs. It is also very difficult to find spares. In the end I replaced the entire bridge, because I couldn't get the spring back in in one piece. Incablock is a dream by comparison. Here's a video showing how to open and close them. He gets down to business with the correct technique after 3:30, but the bit you need starts at 12:15. Good luck!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanism-Hand-Crank-Music-Box-Movement-Harry-Potter-Game-of-Thrones-Star-Wars/282545293050?hash=item41c90306fa:m:mh54XNE-diEtghvhuJBvJWQ you could replace the barrel and comb from this and have a little Starwars figure or Harry Potter spinning around

Elgin model 111 New Old Stock case with its original grosgrain ribbon and clasp I have a movement with a NOS dial waiting

Have you fitted a new mainspring. The hairspring looks good it is just running way to fast.

if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and

I agree with Andy, HS issue. Faulty HS end length, or the slit catches/ carries the HS. Move the adjust arm all the way towards the stud, that is max HS length activation. Readings on timegrapher should not vary then.

Take care with the stem, they are easily damaged, once they get a bit of corrosion. I would try to pop it out, clean it and then re-fit it (or replace if necessary). Fitting the new battery is the reverse of removing it. Cover the coil, put the edge of the battery under the contact opposite the one you loosened, pull the contact with the pinhole gently back with the pin and press the battery in (gently). Release the pin, tighten the screw, and you are done.

To be fair (and not particularly helpful since the spring has already been removed) the trick is to not remove them in the first place. They are designed such that once the tail is free the whole spring can be hinged upwards, pivoting around the tips of the arms until the cap jewel can be slid out from underneath. Reinstallation of the cap jewel is simply the reverse sequence. Interestingly, these are not strictly shock absorbers, rather they are just retaining clips. The design of shock absorber settings is such as to allow the pivot to enter further into the setting under shock until a shoulder on the staff, which is much more substantial than the pivot, contacts the jewel and arrests the movement without damaging the delicate pivot. The spring then returns the staff to its operational position. If you look at the pivots of the wheels served by these settings you will find no such shoulder as the pivot is already substantial enough to withstand most knocks without ill effect. Also the springs flex only very little as a function of the mass of the wheel they support, unlike the shock protection set up on balance wheels where you have a comparatively large mass, a very fine pivot, and a lot of flex in the spring. That being said they probably do flex under extreme shock and as such may help to protect the pivot.

I have added the anchor crystal lift £20 on e bay as I thought I had a few watches that needed the movement to be removed from the front. Turns out they had the press on front similar to a pocket watch. I can however confirm it works very well as I did have a Junghans quartz to try it out on.

My pic from the archives. Now discontinued, I have two more waiting for a new dad.

Hello all! I have been struggling with the matter of mainspring winders for a while and I want to share some of my experience with Bergeon mainspring winders. First, there two major types: the old ones, with a spoke on the arbor (30081): and the newer ones with a recess on the arbor (Nivarox): Side by side #6: to be continued...