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It is a case of strip and inspection.

You should find the service manuals here -> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-IKHN7WFKiwLVFQRjQyUUV0bmM The hairspring is designed to be replaceable, the service manual explains the process. You need to take great care to not loose the retaining pin, or mangle the replacement. You can also possibly "unfankle" the damaged hairspring. It requires a lot of patience though.

Hi The man you need is JERSEYMO he is a regular contributor an all things timex "The Guru" He will no doubt pick up on your post good luck.

Thanks Vin, the last I’ve worked on is AS1700, UTC33 and Seiko 6119. Thanks to forum help, they’re all apparently working reasonably well. What should be most aware of with this one?...which I did buy. Ive learned a lot from Mark’s videos Thank you Charlie

I agree, the pressure of the stem on the setting mechanism and wheels must release some of the friction built up allowing the movement to run. Maybe gunk... or maybe someone serviced it and messed up the wheels/CP. As always, the fact that it does run one way or another is a good sign that you should be able to save it. Good luck!!

Hi All I'm a beginner having "serviced" about ten watches. I didn't kill the last five or so. They were "non runners" that needed a clean and oil. These were all late '60s early '70s movements. I'm interested in the one pictured below which appears a bit older. Description says that it runs only when pressure applied to the crown. At this point in my learning, I can't see the connection. Any ideas? Thank you Charlie

It is pretty attractive, but as you say, somewhat pricey. As to the stem, I suspect it hides a cunning mechanism for regulating the watch, but I am no expert.

good show ! mystery solved. ill stow my sears catolog. vin

patience is attention to detail is key. it took an hour and a half to clean that dial. rubber is good but does not work well on metal dials that have a brushed or grainy surface like the one i pictured, its good for smooth dials in my opinion. Other than rubber erasure i have used a GUM erasure which can be bought from any art supply store. it does not get shredded up and leave erasure dust and it does not absorb any cleaning products you will be using on the dial. like i siad i have been researching this for a year and i have tried every solution on almost every dial. and advice must be taken lightly because agin every dial is different and one method which will work for one type of dial will destroy another.

I've something similar to these which I bought a few years ago on the recommendation of an earlier post to this forum. (Probably other sellers that do the same.) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292120239715 Work well for watch hands and small second hands on some of the vintage watches that I've an interest in. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

This is quite interesting, can't say I ever worked on those AS960 and its derivatives.. wonder which one this is that AS740 is quite close..

The only movement that is close is the AS 740 . And when i read the text it says it's marked with EB also . https://17jewels.info/movements/a/as/as-740/ You also have this two. https://www.millsys-watch.co.uk/as-movement-for-parts-4642-p.asp https://www.millsys-watch.co.uk/as-cal-14-or-4-watch-movement-for-parts-5391-p.asp

I saw you had the "Moon" case, here you can read a little bit about the different ones.. http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogdennison.php

The dial says swiss made and I think that looks quite like this one.. https://www.loveantiques.com/vintage-watches/gold-plated/antique-craftsman-pocket-watch-by-cyma-135309 So probably of European origin..

If you have a few quid sloshing about that you don't know what to do with, and you need a Shackleton fix... https://www.willishenryauctions.com/catalogs/military-timepieces-collection-auction-march-18-2017/lot-14-very-fine-explorers-watch/

"Runs when pressure is put on crown." Could be any of the following (and indeed something else entirely ) 1) Turning the crown on its axis as if winding, causes tension on the spring and the watch runs, releasing the crown causes loss of tension, due to broken or missing click spring. Possibly an easy fix. 2) Turning the crown puts pressure on the mechanism, but the main spring is broken, or perhaps just completely filthy, runs erratically for a couple of seconds. Possibly a less easy fix, maybe clean, possibly replace the main spring, but still fixable. 3) Inward pressure on the crown causes the crown to seat correctly, this would cause a hackable movement to start running, but dirt or a damaged seal might then cause the crown to pop back out. Easy fix. Clean stem, crown and keyless work. 4) Inward pressure on the crown causes the keyless work to sit correctly, but a misaligned or broken spring in the keyless work causes it to pop back out when the pressure is removed. Fix.. re-seat or replace the spring in the keyless work. Possibly easy, possibly not. 5) Inward pressure on the crown causes the watch to run, because it has the wrong stem fitted, or has a badly worn, bent or damaged stem, which is binding up the watch, the pressure releases whatever is trapped, allowing the watch to run. Fix.. replace the stem. In my experience any attempt to straighten it will result in it snapping, even if you heat it first. Take pictures of the stem before you attempt any repair. 6) The balance fork is damaged or missing, winding pressure on the stem causes the hands to fly round like a demented politician negotiating an alternative brexit. Fix, replace the balance fork. 7) Something else... In summary, there is a 99% chance it is fixable.

Nucejoe, that’s all he says on eBay. I’ll report back when it arrives. thank you

I don't know much about the watch, but the case makers have an interesting history. http://dennisonwatches.com/history/

Cylinder escapement. 1 jewel movement

I quite often see early Borgel cased pocket watches on Ebay not listed correctly or just listed as pocket watches with no other description, they are worth keeping an eye out for, the early ones almost always contain high grade movements, they where expensive watches when first introduced so where fitted with Omega, Longines or IWC movements, many sellers dont know how to open the cases so dont realises that they contain very good movements so they are often listed at cheap prices. This I bought last week on Ebay, it arrived today, I knew it would contain a good movement as it happens it is a I.W.C it is dirty needs a polish to the case and crystal and has a hairline crack on the dial but at £45 it represents a very good buy. It has import marks for 1908 and was retailed by Stauffer Son and Co so the movement is stamped accordingly, but is a IWC manufactured calibre 64 the patent number on the movement refers to a IWC patent for stopwork on the mainspring barrel. This is the second IWC Boregel watch I have had in a year both bought cheap so keep a eye out you will get a highgrade watch at a good price if your lucky enough to spot one.

craftsman tools. and just about everthing !

Well it serves me right. If only I’d asked for close ups I would have been able to tell you that it is not an Elliott but a repro or fake. The writing on the dial is extremely poor and looks like I could have done it after a pub-crawl. The hole in the dial is out of line with the hour wheel, it is not evenly spaced around the pipe. Still we had some very good info from our good friend wls1971

It was used by a number or watch manufactures over the years, what did sears sell under the name, they seemed to have used it for a range of flat pack self build houses, I assume if you where out when delivered they left it with a neighbour.

before jumping into this one, you should study a watchmaking book or video. good luck, Charlie . vin

that name was also used by Sears and Robuck co. in the 1920's and now. vin

The watch is a little later than you think it cant be before 1924 because that is when the name was first registered http://mikrolisk.de/show.php?site=280#sucheMarker Go to the above sight and put the name in the search this will show you a list of companys that had the name registered. From what I see on the web they all appear to have good quality Swiss lever movements fitted so a picture of that would be helpful they would have been considered a good quality watch at the time but brand names came and went with regularity in those days.

Yes that’s what I think. You have settled my mind. I was completely wrong about the clock in question. You have convinced me, it is a fake of some discerption Chinese you say. Maybe I’m getting too old for this game. My sight is not getting better. To you.

Hi sean , No I am not familiar with amreican pocket watches, just general diagnostics. Runing for 36hrs, means the MS is not broken nor dose it's end dislodge from the barrel wall neither from barrel arbor. The actual power reserve is 36 hrs or more, so mainspring is healthy though can be the wrong one, on the other hand the MS is got to unusally long, which brings up the question , how that extra length did get packed in limited space inside the barrel. I am not rejecting you suspecion on the length though. I am inclined to think, stiffness is due to faulty mesh in wind mech, if so, you should see signs showing material damage at the teeth of the gears when you strip down. So lets wait for more response to come in, if it came down to what I suspect , you may want to remove the ratchet wheel and barrel bridge to check. If you removed the barrel , check the inside for sign of slippage on its wall. Check the click spring, if malfunctions ot can let power slipaage and if stuck underneath the ratchet wheel makes it get stiff. Keep us posted please. Regards. Joe

I agree with JD and Jguitron. A mulfunction somewhere is set mech and min trian. The return bar is to bring back the siding pinion( also called castle pinion ,slides pinion on square sect of stem) so to disengage the min train from stem in wind position. In which case, if you remove the stem, the watch should run. Make sure there is enough wind before removing stem. If no good, the fault is in the min train. Regards

The gears that move the cannon pinion may be stuck. I would look at the complete winding and setting mechanism. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes Elliot did buy in French movements but only in the very early days these where mostly the standard pendule de paris type movements which they cased up in English made wooden cases. Elliott did not start producing platform escapement clocks until the 1920's and used a Swiss 11 jewel or french 11 jewel in 1929 their platform clocks where fitted with 11 jewel English made Rotherham and sons platforms used upon til 1948 when they started using 11 jewel L'epee platforms including the rather interesting L'epee silent tick platform which had a extra hairspring around the escape wheel arbor. When ever Elliott had problems with supply during and after the war they would revert to using Smiths platforms as a stop gap. The clocks produced in later years of the company used 7 jewel L'epee, non of the platforms used looks like the one pictured. Another problem with the clock shown is the use of "Elliott and sons" on the dial the clocks would have simply had Elliott on the dial and the movements would have been stamped with a J.J.E trademark in the early years and F.W Elliott in later years. These clocks started turning up in auction around 2010 and have been increasing in numbers from that date, I see plenty in antique centres including one yesterday in a antique centre in Harrogate. The story of Elliott is a rather complicated one as the company merged and amalgamated with several other English makers most notably "Gillett and Johnstons" and Grimshaw.

Yes I do. 12 handicap. Play weekly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This looks like it is going to be Mondays watch of today. I think this is a Lapanouse - Rego 143 movement, produced some time after 1960. The dial and hands, style looks early 1960s, but the case, being aluminium suggests late sixties or seventies. The movement construction is somewhat unusual. Kind of half Timex, half Swiss. The date has a quick change pusher at 9 o'clock, as you can see in this picture.

well do this take out pallet and cock and see where roller rests. what i do is remove hairspring from BW and cock. instal BW and cock in movement. line up roller jewel. place spring on top off cock and line up stud with the hole. then while holding the BW from the side with your finger tip in the exact center position. mark the location of the HS stud on the balance wheel, wax pencil or thin marker, then reinstall the HS on the BW and cock, then reinstall complete balance. i never liked using a collet wrench, pivots and springs can get damaged since there is alot more trial and error, my way is a little more involved but if done right its a one time deal, and the HS and pivots are safe from destruction. edit: make HS when placed on top of the cock is in the correct position, the collet side with the beveled edge should face down to the balance, this is the way it should be installed on the BW.

If it wont get to full wind, Mainspring is broken, which you should hear the sound of (as it dislodges )coming from the barrel. Listen close to barrel for a sound of sudden power discharge.

What actual power dose it reserve? Wind fully see how long it runs on full wind, that gives and idea of MS strength and actual power delivery. Out of beat impulse jewel can also be the cause.Partially wind like two or three turns, Dose it keep on runing? If shaken to kick start the runing? Dirty jewels can cause this , A droplet of kerosene, avgas or lighter fluid etc, on the top jewel assembly and on lower pivot, temoprarly acts as lubricants, frees the pivots of congealed oil. Providing such data, is greately helpful to members for proper diagnostic. Regards joe.

The project finally came to fruition today. The new dial arrived and I assembled the old girl. At first, I couldn't get the movement to align with the chapter ring properly. After further investigation, I found that I had somehow let the chapter ring slip when installing the new crystal. Out came the crystal again, correctly aligned the chapter ring with the keeper in the milled slot, then reassembled it all. Now, everything's good to go. Old: 7S26 21J mechanical auto wind movement, flat mineral glass crystal, factory supplied hands. Literally, any stock SKX007 will show you what I began with. New: 7S36 23J mechanical auto wind movement, double domed blue AG coated crystal, custom coin edge 316L bezel, green insert, new crown. I've installed the original Jubilee bracelet from Seiko that the watch has always worn. I've ordered new fat spring bars as the old ones are a bit dodgy. I won't wear the watch until I have those in hand and change them out. Total cost of parts = $92. Labor = $0. Fun involved with project = priceless! A big old Texas "Thank you pardner" goes out to Mark without whose videos and encouragement this would have never happened.