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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/23/19 in all areas

  1. I have been focusing on the Timex Campers the last few weeks and came across that looked like it spent time under ground. Here is the high level tasks performed: Soak strap in Oxy-Clean Clean case Clean and buff crystal Service movement replace crown grease stem tube Before and after -
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  2. Its been posted before, but its as good as anything else for saying good Monday morning. Omega constellation stainless steel wirh ESA 9162. All original including bracelet and going strong. I have the box and papers for this one. Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
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  3. Look on eBay, the amazon prices are stupid. As well, go to Albris.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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  4. Great video and more money to spend. Very helpful for the beginner who is sifting through mountains of information.
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  5. For what it's worth , I just had the same problem with a date disk not lining up with the date window . I could at first swivel the disk on the gear , but it eventually they did separate . I used a few punches from my staking set and joined the two parts together successfully .
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  6. Please ignore my post as only two words at end got printed, I have no idea where the rest of my post is, perhaps the dog got it.
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  7. Practical benchwork for horologists currently on amazon uk at over 3k lol ummm i think i'll have to pass on that one. Great vid tho JD ty for posting it.
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  8. Like with everything reducing weight on the balance wheel will make it easier to turn but it will be less energy stored, changing the hairspring to a fresh one would be no: 1 thing I would do if everything else is fine. I'm not a huge Rolex fan but have to give them a credit for their approach to make the hairspring to live slightly longer. http://static.rolex.com/flipboard/the-parachrom-hairspring.html Nickelsilver has a couple of god points with the size of the balance wheel.
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  9. You said you checked the escapement, how much drop and total lock do you have? Heavy lock is exacerbated in vertical. Also, you transplanted a balance- if the pivots are slightly large they can be totally free (thus the decent horizontal amp) but make too much contact in vertical. If the balance endshake is a little too much the pivots can end up almost out of the hole jewels in vertical and be resting on the olived area increasing friction. And, on some cheaper movements the hole jewels aren't olived. They may even be convex but the hole isn't olived. Finally, some movements are just poorly proportioned and you see a 100ish degree amplitude drop in vertical. If you've exhausted all options and the watch has to "perform", the only option is a slightly stronger mainspring and flattening the pivots to drop the horizontal amplitude.
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  10. You seem to have done an impressive amount of work. If it like you say works perfect in both horisontal positions it would show everything looks fine in the drive train this far. The thing with placing the movement vertically is the dramatic increase of area the pivots can create friction through. But since it is a consistent increase in every position I would rule everything except the balance out as the culprit. You also have come to the same conclusion. I'm not sure the balance wheel is the only culprit maybe the hairspring just lost its swung, just like the mainspring it's made of metal and will suffer from metal fatigue, the increased friction lying vertical will in such case make the amplitude go down. Just a thought.
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  11. Well done. You could make yourself a tidy sum if you advertised that you make balance staffs.
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  12. Today's offering is a fairly new Invicta diver. This is the model 7044 which isn't rare but it isn't seen all that often either. I features the SII NH36a movement which has hacking and stem winding along with day and date. I originally purchased this watch to find out if I would like this movement as I was considering transplanting one into my Seiko 7S26-0020. Frankly, I like the stem winding feature but it is fiddly. You have to push the crown in, then pull it out to the mid position to change the day/date as usual. To stem wind the movement, you have to push the crown in to the seated position, then pull it out a second time to the center position. If you overshoot the center position, you have to do it again as the internal gears will fail to mesh. This example was served up by the on-line retailer named after a S. American river and I saw it on cyber Monday last year for 66% off of the normal street price, which is lower than retail by quite a bit. In addition to the NH36a movement, I like the crisp white dial and the second hand being minus that awful Invicta logo thing on the end. It has decent lume a beautifully finished case and a substantial bracelet. It wears easily and has quickly become a favorite. I've timed it over a two week period when worn for up to 12 hours daily and it lost a total of 3 seconds. Even though the crown is unscrewed in my photo, it does in fact screw down properly. It also has the display case back which shows a rather plain movement with a decorated OW.
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  13. This Chinese skeleton movement "Identity London Diamond" just got a pit of TLC. There is some damage to one of the lugs, and it had some dial damage (blue metal salt crystal "fungus" round the edge of the dial). The dial looks a whole lot better, and the thing keeps remarkably good time, +/- 5 s/day at the worst, which is a bit of a bonus as I was expecting the performance to be pretty poor. At 0.99p plus P+P it is one of the lowest cost members of the 404 club. There is something mesmerizing about skeleton watches, even slightly tatty ones, that gives them a charm of their own. This particular watch doesn't even feature a see through case back, only the front view of the works is available to the wearer, so here is what you would otherwise be missing. I think it is just a pretty low end skeleonized Chinese standard movement. No blued screws or other bling, but still fascinating to sit and watch. I may pop the engine in to a slightly less tatty case at some stage, for the full franken-noodle experience.
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  14. Great video. Lots of Roger Smith on the tube, all awe inspiring, a must view.
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  15. Picked up this Seikomatic-P 5106-7000 from Japan for repair, day wheel is out of place and the date progress pusher located within the crown isn't functioning. Excited to have it up and running.
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  16. What actual power dose it reserve? Wind fully see how long it runs on full wind, that gives and idea of MS strength and actual power delivery. Out of beat impulse jewel can also be the cause.Partially wind like two or three turns, Dose it keep on runing? If shaken to kick start the runing? Dirty jewels can cause this , A droplet of kerosene, avgas or lighter fluid etc, on the top jewel assembly and on lower pivot, temoprarly acts as lubricants, frees the pivots of congealed oil. Providing such data, is greately helpful to members for proper diagnostic. Regards joe.
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  17. The Logo for sure is an Langendorf Watch Co. compass/divider but.. The key less work is more like the one from Langendorf 2-10.5''' For sure a very nice piece of mechanics..
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  18. I have a box full of flat round acrylic crystals in different sizes somewhere. If you want to have a go at cutting one out of one of those then PM me with the diameter you’d need and I can send you a couple.
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  19. Me again look my books LANGENDORF 12
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  20. Hello,it'sfrom family LANGENDORF-LANCO-LONVILLE,Sorry don't know calibre...
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  21. Actually I was trying to work out if I could use the top off a vodka bottle.
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  22. I will look for a stereo microscope in the future to consider a similar setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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  23. Here is a link to the a suited scope that are cheap enough and are great quality for micro work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FOLVM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=rossmanngroup-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01H4FOLVM&linkId=9ea4ad1a1b60599182bcfd6beaf396fb Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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  24. I don't wear glasses but I'll add that I use a 3x loupe (right eye, right handed) for general bench work, and use a zoom microscope for inspection and oiling. Around here the glasses wearers tend to take them off and use a conventional loupe but that may be due to their particular eyesight. I know others who use the clip on loupes and are happy. For general work anywhere between 2.5x and 4x is ok. Going above, even 5x, can be very tiring for the eye. The high power loups are more for inspection use or short duration. For lathe work I have a scope mounted over it that gives 10x or 20x. 10 for most stuff, 20 for really fine work.
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  25. Don't pull the crown just push and see what happens
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