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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/19 in all areas

  1. It’s a Miyota 3n20. Not easy to find a new alternate for. 5y20 is listed as the current replacement but has different dial feet positions, hand sizes and stem tap size!!! There is a watch on eBay with a 3n20 in Spain, but my Spanish isn’t good enough to see if its working. Best alternate may be to find a Citizen 3220. There’s a new 3220 on eBay.com, but doesn’t look like they ship to uk https://www.ebay.com/itm/Citizen-Watch-Corp-3220-Original-Quartz-Watch-Movement-Japan-Made-1-Jewel-/273598188626. Alternatively, there are many Citizen 3220 series watches on eBay. Or you could google for other sources of both
    2 points
  2. Here are the tools I always used for removing clock hands that need to be pulled off.
    2 points
  3. The clock in the vid to remove the main hands the centre collet unscrews. I use a small puller, of which I have several. Levers are not a good idea for clocks as some clock hands are very tight and damage can happen to the dial.
    2 points
  4. Looking for the 5y20 as replacement on page 79 of this was the killer link https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/media/pdfs/CaskerMovements48w.pdf
    1 point
  5. Google is your friend I searched Cousins to find the current Miyota of that size, then I googled for where that had been suggested as an alternative for obsolete movements, then hit the images button. You just have to ask the same question a few different ways. Actually, I found it quite quickly, but didn’t realise I had because the first picture I saw was pretty poor, so I kept on looking. Took me about half an hour which I should have spent starting the next project in my toy box!!
    1 point
  6. I've been researching this watch for hours on end and never even got close to identifying it. How did you com up with the answer?
    1 point
  7. As the grand finale I now fix the bridge at the key less work into place , I throw in the hour wheel and test the functionality.. voila... Hope this will help you..
    1 point
  8. Ah okay- I second look at the diagram shows the holding ring securing the pusher. As you've probably guessed - I haven't fiddled with a 6139... yet.
    1 point
  9. Ebay is great for a laugh sometimes. I imagine this is what the seller will be thinking in about ten days time, "Hmmm... 'Skeleton' didn't work. I guess I'll try relisting it as 'Steam Punk'"
    1 point
  10. Yes important. No angel on the cock and stone, Shimming if unlevel renders the jewel tilted. I prefer using pieces and leave alignment pins alone, have seen pins coming out, pieces of paper pressed in with the pins, grip the pins , causing it to come out as bridge is later removed. Repeated, this caused wear around the hole the pin enters in. Very important indeed. A true horologist services each piece as if the most expensive one.
    1 point
  11. Use a small square piece of watch paper and use a razor blade to trim the leftovers. I have done this a few times when I have made a balance staff and was very concerned about taking too much material off the pivots, so I would just add a bit of watch paper and raise the balance cock just a miniscule amount. Try to keep the paper flat so you don't put an angel on the balance cock and thus cause an angle on the upper jewel. Also, the two alignment studs for seating the balance cock will punch thru the watch paper, unless you can place the piece between them; either is ok. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. Tight BW indicates end stones may be pushing on pivots or even jewels on pivot shoulders. Therefore " loosening the cock screw in fourth of a turn increments up to two turns" is somewhat of a test checking for this. If there is a end shake yet the wheel is tight or not as free as it should be, bent pivot or broken jewel are possible fault. If pivot jump out of jewel hole, loose or faulty shock springs, worn short pivots or excess distance between upper/ lower jewels perhaps even broken jewels are the likely causes.
    1 point
  13. My bad ... my apologises BTW ... those 2 watches are only 2pics of the same replica that my father in law bought during the 90ies (check the scratch on the insert close to the "30" on the right) 1rst pic was taken when he pass it to me saying "please see what you could do with that" 2nd pic was taken before passing it back to him some weeks later (of course I didn't just rebrushed and repolished ... I reworked the lugs, crownguards, crown, Solid endlinks, polished the crystal and cyclop, serviced the movement, etc ...)
    1 point
  14. Just place watch paper under the balance cock if you need to shim it. Folder over once our twice. Use tweezers to hold the paper in place while you install the balance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  15. levers are good, you can use 2 table knives, but pretect the dial first. i use a calling card. vin
    1 point
  16. i believe this was the issue at first and i fixed it. but now balance stops on dial side up. come to think of it jrichard i noticed a coning at the bottom of the upper balance pivot, i know this is normal but this looked different and this was from the balance that was original to the movement the other balance looks better but still stops. Nuce joe as far as other movement goes that is very tight i lifted the cock a bit but did it wayyyy too much now the balance is all over the place, and laxy me tried to do it with balance installed and i think i bent the pivot, so thats one is finished it was one of those moments when you realize that you knew that was going happen before you did it but did it anyway and cant figure out why. also how do you shim a balance, never really tried it. what do you use? also i would never gouge the plate.
    1 point
  17. 17, 21, 25, 30, & 41 that I definitely know of. There may well have been more as efforts to boost jewel count were considerable when this movement was in production.
    1 point
  18. You are built on Slavic battle Chassis. No small watches for you.You could use something soft and easy to work and less likely to corrode ,brass or plastic.Stainless (inox as you call it) is hard to cut and has nasty sharp edges. Congratulations on your upcoming marriage.
    1 point
  19. keep up the good work ! check the balance cock and staff end shake. vin
    1 point
  20. Beer brewer ! Welcome indeed justin.
    1 point
  21. welcome Justin; its good to collect, most of my collection is "repairables' ". vin
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Welcome Justin, Enjoy the forum. I used to brew beer too.A tip I was given by a chemist who worked for Bass is add ONE grain of sugar to you bottles when bottling up and your beer will have a extra sparkle.
    1 point
  24. Welcome to the forum! Brewing beer has to be the most satisfying hobby in the world, with watch repair a close second
    1 point
  25. Thank you Justin for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
    1 point
  26. no doubt with "a time for everything" playing. I saw them in Toronto, late 80's, great show. as for the cleaner, I make a lot of tools but I try to make things are that are unique and can't be easily purchased as to get similar performance its usually hard to buy all bits and pieces for what a used one sells for. Also, there are techniques to do it by hand in the interim until a good one comes along. I agree on the damage ultrasonic can do, for example you're not suppose to ever put rolling element bearings in them as the action will damage the ball and race. However I think its mitigated by technique: work the worst of any built up crude off mechanically first, don't put assemblies in,don't leave stuff in for longer than is needed and protect parts from metal on metal rubbing by suspending them in plastic baggies or (much better) glass containers. For example, put a part in a test tube by itself and hang from above. the part won't bang around against other parts or a steel basket and you use only a small amount of cleaner in the test tube (the main well has just water in it). Ultrasonic waves travel ok through thin plastic and very well through glass
    1 point
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