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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    oldhippy

    Something to lighten the day.

    Four Catholic men and a Catholic woman were having coffee. The first Catholic man tells his friends, "My son is a priest, when he walks into a room, everyone calls him 'Father'." The second Catholic man chirps, "My son is a Bishop. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Grace'." The third Catholic gent says, "My son is a Cardinal. When he enters a room everyone says 'Your Eminence'." The fourth Catholic man then says, "My son is the Pope. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Holiness'." Since the lone Catholic woman was sipping her coffee in silence, the four men give her a subtle, "Well....?" She proudly replies, "I have a daughter, slim, tall, 38D breast, 24" waist and 34" hips. When she walks into a room, people say, "Oh My God!"
  2. 7 points
    Deggsie

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  4. 6 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm
  5. 6 points
    margolisd

    My First Omega Service

    I was really pleased with this service and it's the first time I've worked on an Omega. It was a 1030 movement from the 70s with a broken mainspring. It looked like it hadn't been serviced in decades. Terrible reading as you can see. It was really nice to work with compared to the scrap I'm usually trying to rescue! I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and regulated it and just look at the difference! And it's within 10 seconds in all positions. Just made me happy so thought I'd share :)
  6. 5 points
    Dpastl

    Homemade Tools

    I'm really into machining and making my own tools (generally I spend more time doing that then the actual hobby itself...), so I thought I'd start a topic about DIY tools for watch repair. My first success has been making a watch winder on the 3D printer. Winders are one of the more expensive and difficult to find tools for me, so it really made sense to start here. Here's the watch winder, it consists of three parts (from left to right): the pluger, spring barrel, and winding arbor. The only non-printed part is to drill a small hole in the arbor and put a piece of steel through it to catch the mainspring. It's certainly more fiddly than I imagine a proper tool would be and will not last as long. But it gets the job done and you can make it any size you want! You can find the CAD files on thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540660
  7. 5 points
    margolisd

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  8. 4 points
    quantieme

    Why does this barrel say do not open

    Still working and keeping good time.
  9. 4 points
    bjd1020

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. 4 points
    mcaustin

    First project

    I just completed my first project - (nearly, as described below) full service of this Elgin Sportsman. I polished the crystal and cleaned a whole bunch of gunk out. It's mostly complete - I have a new main spring for it that justbarribed with the strap (I was waiting to pay shipping once). I've given it to my wife and she chose the strap herself. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
  11. 4 points
    Hello All, This is my first post so I thought I would show a little finishing technique I learnt a while back. It basically turns the ratchet or crown wheel into a matte/ frosted finish. It was popular back in the day with some high end companies and still looks good in my opinion. I'll run through how it's done and try answer your questions as best as possible. What you need: 1. glass plate 2. Micron paper in various grits. 20 and 12 will do. 3. Tetrabor 800 grit/ mesh 4. Ultrasonic or cleaning machine 5. rodico First thing first, you have to flatten your ratchet wheel. To do this I use some lapping paper on glass. I start on a 20 micron and rub the ratchet wheel with my finger in a figure 8 pattern or circular or however I feel. (we arent trying to achieve black polishing flatness) If you are worried you can set up a jig to hold the ratchet wheel. but I often find using your finger will suffice. Once happy, move onto a 12 or 9 micron and do the same. At this point it is imperative to clean the wheel so that you remove all the grit from the paper that may be stuck between the teeth. So chuck it in an ultrasonic or your cleaning machine. Next place some tetrabor onto your plate, no need to add oil or water. place wheel onto plate and start rubbing it in. Generally it doesn't take to long no longer than a min or so. Doesn't hurt to check the piece to see how the finish is developing. if you want to check you can dab it with rodico, very carefully to remove the tetrabor. Do NOT wipe with a tissue or anything, this finish scratches so easy its crazy!! you can always chuck it through the ultrasonic (carefully) to see how the pattern is going. Its the checking and chasing that one last scratch which takes up the most time. The slightest bit of dust or dirt on the glass plate will scratch the wheel. You can always blue the wheel after, it comes out with an interesting tone when blued with this finish. This technique is fairly hard and does take some time to get good at, because it's just so easy to scratch and because of this scratches stand out against the matte surface. I'll try answer questions as best as possible. I try and post interesting stuff on Instagram regularly at least 3 to 4 times a week. obr_horology is my account on insta. its just time consuming to post (slow at typing) I plan on doing a youtube video in the coming weeks to better explain it. I learnt this from Henrick Korpela. Check him out if you haven't heard of him. He also writes in the AWCI and gives away a lot of info. Thanks O
  12. 4 points
    Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  13. 4 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  14. 4 points
    Squiffything

    Dipping my toe in the cock waters?

    Oh and you might want to reconsider your title..... we could end up with fetish weirdos finding your post through dodgy search engines
  15. 4 points
    AndyHull

    Watch of Today

    I think I spent rather too much time getting this to work again. I still haven't dug up a suitable crown, but it is running, all of the corrosion is gone, and the crystal is not too shabby. I popped it on a period correct band. So what was so interesting about this little Timex you may ask? Well it turns out it is just as ancient as I am, since it was produced in 1964. It had pretty much everything wrong with it. Covered in interesting (and no doubt mildly toxic) blue and green corrosion. It had no crown (but the remains of a stem), wouldn't wind, wouldn't run, couldn't move the hands You name it.. However in between a few household chores including having to nip out and purchase and replace a Venetian blind who's plastic supporting beam decided to shatter in to a million pieces bringing the whole mess crashing down on to the window ledge (and destroying a glass vase of flowers in the process), this afternoon, I tore it down, cleaned it, replaced a few bits and eventually got it running nicely. I've included a picture of the new blind, just so you can admire my handy work. It still needs a little bit of cosmetic work, (though that hair at 8 o'clock is now gone I assure you), but given that its age, I think we can forgive that, unlike the original window blind, which was only produced in 2015. Somehow I doubt if the new blind will last any where near as long as the watch.
  16. 4 points
    Tmuir

    Barrel ID Measuring tool

    It's time to get back to working on my Fusee clock and finish the new barrel for it. Although I could manage without making this tool I decided it was worth making to ensure I get the endshake correct. I wanted to measure the distance between the bushes inside the clock barrel and obviously you cant use a vernier for that. That's where this tool comes in. Its a pretty simple tool. The threaded rod is a 6BA steel threaded rod I had lying around and I turned up 2 brass ends. The one on the left is only threaded for about 10mm and the rod is screwed and Loctited into it. The one on the right is threaded for the first 10mm and then just clearance drilled the rest of the way. I did this as my taps are not long enough to tap the whole length. The shoulders of the brass ends are 7.5mm diameter with the narrow parts 5.5mm diameter. The idea is this can be used on any barrel that the pivots are larger than 7.5mm. Before I get onto how to use it I will quickly show how I tap small threads like this. The picture below shows my lathe fitted with a drill chuck in the tail stock and held in the drill chuck is a steel rod that I drilled and reamed to give it a smooth bore. I then turned up the tap holder with the shank to the size its a nice smooth fit into the bore. The end of the tap holder is drilled to be a good fit on the tap shank size, knurled to give you some grip and then a grub screw hole is cross drilled and tapped and a grub screw fitted, so when you slide in the tap the grub screw is tightened up on one of the flats of the square on the end of the tap. The drill chuck and reamed tube hold the tap in line for tapping and as you screw the tap in by hand it slides in the tube so no stress is put onto the new threads being cut. You can obviously also use this in a drill press. A closer shot of two tap holders and the sleeve, they are each made for different size taps Measuring tool in use. The shoulder of the left side is sat against the shoulder of the bush inside the barrel and the other brass end is gently wound out until it is touching the shoulder of the other bush, then the 6BA nut is done up against it to stop it slipping, you then remove it from the barrel and use your verniers to measure the gap between the shoulders on the measuring tool. I can now ensure that my new barrel will have the same amount of endshake as the old barrel, yes I could of worked it out without making this tool, but its always fun making new tools.
  17. 4 points
    jdrichard

    Hebdomas Bridge Repair

    So I needed to remove a broken screw from the bridge, the one that locks in the Hairspring stud. I first tried drilling it out with small bits from China and this resulted in a peek in the hole. Then I got a great idea and took a bit that broke and filed it down to a wedge,like a screwdriver bit. This got rid in the peek and allowed me to use another bit with cutting oil. And it worked. Used a lathe for this with a collet holding tail stock. Here are are the pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  18. 4 points
    saswatch88

    Watch running fast

    if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
  19. 4 points
    clockboy

    Runs only when crown pressed

    It is a case of strip and inspection.
  20. 4 points
    Here's a fresh upload on Thingiverse for 3D printing. A simplemovement holder for Miyota 8215, Clones and other variants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3501843
  21. 3 points
    Colditz

    New Workshop/Studio

    Barracuda caught in Thailand March 2019 Island Kho Muk
  22. 3 points
    Johnnie

    Watch of Today

    Omega Speedmaster 1964, my favourite watch !
  23. 3 points
    StuartBaker104

    Names of movement parts

    Either “Sir” or “Madam” should be fine
  24. 3 points
    This has been a challenging restoration, just finished it today. Rags to Riches I’m a Seiko guy, but have come to appreciate these 8110A Citizens
  25. 3 points
    Dpastl

    Homemade watch hand setters

    Hey All, I thought I'd share the plans for making watch hand setters. I wasn't able to get any cheaply or easily so I decided to make my own. A note of caution, turning small diameter PVC is a pain. I was able to after much trial and error, but the accuracy was pretty bad. To be fair I was using an enormous 13x48" engine lathe with a 3jaw chuck and HSS tools ground for steel so your results may vary. Design is based on pictures of other watch setters I found on the internet. I chose 0.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm and blunt tips. Cheers, Watch Hand Setter Drawing.pdf
  26. 3 points
    noirrac1j

    Cleaning a movement

    d-i-s-a-s-s-e-m-b-l-e-d! J
  27. 3 points
    JBerry

    Watch of Today

    On the way to me from the USA, always wanted a GP
  28. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Something to lighten the day.

    A very small Catholic parish agreed with the priest that the trim around their mostly stone church was in bad need of a new coat of paint. Lacking much in the way of funds, they advertised for bids, emphasizing the need for economy. One local house painter of questionable reputation looked the job over and thought to himself, "I can make a quick buck here if I play my cards correctly". He submitted a very low bid and sure enough, the parish secretary phoned him a few days later to let him know that he had been awarded the job. The painter's plan was simple enough. He had just enough old paint left over from previous jobs and would not only mix them together, but also thin them severely so that he could cover the trim with new paint for only the cost of his labor. Accordingly, he arrived on the job site with his paint, rollers and brushes and began painting furiously. He needed to get the paint applied, collect his money and depart before a looming black rain cloud dumped rain on his fresh paint. That would wash all of his thinned paint from the trim and create a very expensive problem for him. He was applying paint to the last 50 ft or so of trim when the skies opened and it poured down in buckets for close to 1/2 hour without letup. The painter had taken refuge inside the church and upon exiting and looking up at his now thoroughly ruined paint, he thought to himself, now what am I to do? Right on cue a deep, resonant voice spoke to him from the departing storm clouds above. "My son, repaint and thin no more".
  29. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    1978 Timex 'Viscount'
  30. 3 points
    Squiffything

    Watch of Today

    Oulm quartz dual time arrived in the post today and I am impressed with the quality. Also received a nice little bit of reading material. I may finally get around to sorting out the Westminster Smiths clock :)
  31. 3 points
    More low cost fun. Just a little over three and a half quid each. My guess is, possible franken-dial, probably original and probably original. I spent more on two coffees and a couple of sticky buns in the supermarket cafe yesterday.
  32. 3 points
    yankeedog

    Watch of Today

    AS 1187 movement generic Hong Kong case.Dial decal printed on IJP. Franken for sure,but a fun experiment in spare parts.
  33. 3 points
  34. 3 points
    TexasDon

    Watch of Today

    Another nice one Mo. Personally, I think it would look better on my wrist but that's just an opinion.
  35. 3 points
    HSL

    Easter fun with Top Clop

    And behold the TOP CLOP DE LUXE flies again. But I still don't know what the 21 stands for but at least it now has a 17 jewel movement.. Tha folks is everything I can contribute with for Easter Fun...
  36. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    One I restored for a lume-rot. I will be reluming it at some point to mount in this restored model as my eyes can't easily make out the hands on the gold dial.
  37. 3 points
    JerseyMo

    Watch of Today

    today's watch is a Timex Marlin from 1969 and the same year as the picture in the background. The picture is from a group of photos made available to the general public directly from NASA back in 69'. I was only eleven years old than. geez!
  38. 3 points
    oldhippy

    Pallet Stone Wear

    When it comes to the pallets, the only part that should be oiled are the pallet stone faces. Never oil the pivots of the pallets as it will cause drag and the movement will fail to keep time. You must use the correct oil for the escapement, if you are not sure which; look for one that specifically says for watch escapements. Some watchmakers prefer to oil the teeth of the escape wheel and let the combined action of pallets and escape wheel to distribute the oil. Pallet stones should be smooth on their face, any marks, chips and they should be re-placed. The stone is harder than the escape wheel so it is most likely it also is worn.
  39. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    As5008 was/is the valjoux of AS in alarm movements class, in most brands.Here is a fortis brainmatic AS5008.
  40. 3 points
    wls1971

    More Mystery Tools...

    The bottom items look like cut floor brads a type of nail used for nailing floorboards down, flat to prevent splitting as they are hammered into the floor board.
  41. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Watch of Today

    Luch is made in belaruss, I got this in moscow where obviously it retails for more. I think the price was about seven dollars back then( sixteen years ago) also got ten manual winds in minsk for five dollars a piece. Day/ date jumps real good and feels like you would expect from an expensive brand, low quality glass, and the chrome is decent quality.
  42. 3 points
    JBerry

    Spring - Time to get outdoors

    Just back from a little staycation here in Ireland... weather was beautiful for a change. As people say here, it'd be a great little country if you could put a roof over it!
  43. 3 points
    ro63rto

    Watch of Today

    Sunny day so this one got chosen. Old pic
  44. 3 points
    clockboy

    peter alarm clock

    Listening to it yes the comb has teeth missing hence the un recognisable tune.
  45. 3 points
    Barnaby

    Seiko 6139 pusher and case tube problem

    UPDATE: New case tube installed, + replacement (Seiko) pusher. Movement holder finally arrived from Australia, watch finished and working perfectly (+ 1 spd on the wrist). Massive thank you to Roger for his help. The photo is not very flattering- the hands look cleaner in normal light.
  46. 3 points
    jdm

    Chinese Lathe Price List

    Hello after a long time. To help in purchasing one, I have published a price list of the lathe and accessories sold on Ebay by sincereclocks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vSWfhOjlAfpI_c1EWF8MPSKnbIVIPoIH6mxCC1nVYQPQ8cJbiwBhLc1v597F9Z_AZteVKsfJ1lZDOOe/pubhtml That is the same classic "Geneva Pattern" C0608 lathe as described on the specialized website: http://www.lathes.co.uk/chinese-watch-lathe/ Its qualities have been already been discussed here and on many other places, so all I wanted to do is to summarize the options available, using a more conventional part naming.My opinion is that the product is still overpriced in relation to its industrial cost by a good 100%, especially for some parts. For example, the 3 jaws chuck sold for $155 is a common Furda K01-50 plus adapting arbor, available elsewhere for $60. And the seller make no discount on the lathe purchase with an accessory set, howeve a 5% discount is offered if the transaction is made directly. Since the same product is also sold under the bran Vector by Boley.de, and described as "inexpensive". I've included a summary of that option. I'll make no comment on its price, but at least the wooden box looks great. In another post I'll summarize the ready choices available for getting a new micro or mini lathe.
  47. 3 points
    Nucejoe

    Tricky vertical amplitude problem

    Please ignore my post as only two words at end got printed, I have no idea where the rest of my post is, perhaps the dog got it.
  48. 3 points
    m1ks

    Watch of Today

    Mine for today, (yesterday also). Roamer.
  49. 3 points
    I don't wear glasses but I'll add that I use a 3x loupe (right eye, right handed) for general bench work, and use a zoom microscope for inspection and oiling. Around here the glasses wearers tend to take them off and use a conventional loupe but that may be due to their particular eyesight. I know others who use the clip on loupes and are happy. For general work anywhere between 2.5x and 4x is ok. Going above, even 5x, can be very tiring for the eye. The high power loups are more for inspection use or short duration. For lathe work I have a scope mounted over it that gives 10x or 20x. 10 for most stuff, 20 for really fine work.
  50. 3 points
    It looks like a pretty generic spring.Do you have another movement of any other manufacture laying about? there's a pretty good chance it's spring will work. Which side of the Atlantic are you on? I will search my kitchen floor.
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