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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points

    Unitas 6497 Custom Watch

    Hey folks, I'd like to share a watch I put together for my Brother's birthday. The movement is a pretty old Unitas 6497 which I picked up from the widow of a watchmaker a year or so back, the plates have been skeletonised and I'm pretty sure this was a once off job by the watchmaker. The mainplate is brass, and the decorated bridge plates appear to have been plated (quite crudely, when inspected under a loupe). The movement is keeping great time now that it is serviced. I made an attempt at a logo using the film-free transfer technique Mark has used in a couple of recent Youtube videos. The logo didn't adhere very well to the dial, not particularly happy with it. In person and to the naked eye it looks pretty good I think. The case is a 41mm case I picked up from Ofrei, who I sourced the dial and hands from also. Hope ye like it!
  2. 9 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    Four Catholic men and a Catholic woman were having coffee. The first Catholic man tells his friends, "My son is a priest, when he walks into a room, everyone calls him 'Father'." The second Catholic man chirps, "My son is a Bishop. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Grace'." The third Catholic gent says, "My son is a Cardinal. When he enters a room everyone says 'Your Eminence'." The fourth Catholic man then says, "My son is the Pope. When he walks into a room people call him 'Your Holiness'." Since the lone Catholic woman was sipping her coffee in silence, the four men give her a subtle, "Well....?" She proudly replies, "I have a daughter, slim, tall, 38D breast, 24" waist and 34" hips. When she walks into a room, people say, "Oh My God!"
  3. 7 points
    Like most of us, I look for perfection and oiling cap jewels with a regular oiler take a lot of practice and patience. I found myself having to reclean and re-oil over and over before I could approve my work. So, I decided to invest in an automatic oiler for this purpose and although very expensive I think it was worth every penny, and I was so happy about it that I decided to make a video about it. Please bear with me though as this was my very first attempt at video editing.
  4. 7 points

    Thank you Rogart63

    If i have the parts i am willing to share. I can't use them in a lifetime. And lots of the movements are in bad shape .But some parts look fine. Could be hard to sell if i can't guarantee they are 100% perfect either. So as we all tinker with watches in here and can inspect the parts i send. It's nice to help out . Some other time it's maybe me that is searching for some hard to find part.
  5. 7 points

    A lovely little lusina

    My father recently asked if I would service his wrist watch which he bought from the NAAFI at RAF Akrtiri in Cyprus during his national service days. The watch came to me as ticking, but the oil on the keyless works had gummed up like tar, making it almost impossible to wind without fear of doing some damage. Anyway, here are a few before and after photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 6 points

    Thank you Rogart63

    Today this package from sweeden came in mail, containing 11blacd escapement wheel, donor @rogart63 . Following fourteen years of in to do box I will hopefuly bring my bulova snorkel back to life and soon, I will post a picture of it on watch of today thread. Thank you Rogart63 for this gift, very precious to me. In appreciation of your generosity and in your name, I make sure to pass on three winding stems to the novices and three balance staffs to experienced learners. I have no problem shipping small parts.
  7. 6 points

    ETA Resources

    Just thought I should post some links here from ETA Costumer support. They are quite informative and gives you something to do on a rainy summer day. The first one is to their Dictionary, here you can find all their definitions and even how things works, like the escapement and so on. https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html The other ones are movement specific ETA 2892A2 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html ETA 7750 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/7750/7750.html ETA 6497 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html ETA 251.471 https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/251471/251471.html When you go there the first time you probably need to get flash.. look up in the left corner. After loading it is just to start exploring the information.
  8. 6 points

    Is it salvageable?

    Well, I've pretty much wrapped up this project. The replacement chronograph pushers (buttons) arrived last week and needed a bit of adjustment before they could be installed. As you can see from the picture below, the shaft of the pusher which acts on the Flyback Lever was a bit long and needed to be turned down on the lathe then re-threaded. The lot of Excelsior Park parts which I purchased earlier included replacement coil springs for the pushers which was just perfect as the spring for the Flyback Lever was quite rusty. The replacement is pictured below. I found it was easiest to case the movement first, then install the pushers. While doing this I noticed there was a part missing from the keyless works. Worried that I had lost something irreplaceable, I went back over my images taken during disassembly and discovered the missing bit wasn't there when I started. The missing piece belongs to the setting lever assembly- although what exactly it's purpose is I'm not sure. Perhaps it provides stability when applying the clutch. I noted the keyless works seems to function properly without the part so maybe it's just the appendix of an EP40 movement. I've circled the area with the missing bit below and added a linked image from the Watchguy's image archive which shows exactly what is missing. If I ever do find the missing part, I'll probably have to give my right arm to purchase it. I replaced the Flyback Lever and Operating Lever, both of which secured the pushers to the movement. The Flyback Lever is secured with a left-hand thread shouldered screw. The original screw was destroyed by rust but I found a suitable replacement; it doesn't have the three slots cut into the head so I added a dab of blue paint to distinguish the screw. I still need to find a large case screw to replace the original which was also destroyed. I needed to adjust some of the eccentrics in order to get the chronograph working just right. It's a pity too because those eccentrics had perfect heads on them until they were galled by my screwdriver. That will serve as a reminder to review the section in George Daniel's book on screwdriver sharpening. I cleaned up the dial with a bit of water and a Q-Tip but as you can see I lost some of the tachymetre around 3 o'clock from my efforts. The text came away without effort so I stopped any further efforts to improve the dial. The Hour, Minute, and Minute Recording hands all had oxidation damage. I scrapped the rust away with an oiler and Rodico and applied a coat of varnish to the luminous paint to keep it from crumbling. I think I could have polished and re-blued the hands (which would have been the "correct" solution) but opted to keep the scarred look; it's a reminder of what this watch has been through. By the way- blued steel hands on a white dial is just a fantastic look. They look black against the dial when viewed straight on, but when the light hits them just right they shimmer with the deepest blue. I tried to catch an image of the effect with my camera but just couldn't do it justice. A high dome acrylic crystal completed the job. So far, so good. The movement has kept time for the past twenty-four hours without issue. Once I've found a strap for it, I'll take it out on the town and then make final adjustments if need be. I think I got lucky on this one as the water damage wasn't as great as it could have been and I was able to find all of the replacement parts at a reasonable cost. Only the pushers broke my budget but I'm happy with the new buttons. I still have some NOS parts left over which I can hold onto or flip later to offset the cost of repair.
  9. 6 points
    Hello All, This is my first post so I thought I would show a little finishing technique I learnt a while back. It basically turns the ratchet or crown wheel into a matte/ frosted finish. It was popular back in the day with some high end companies and still looks good in my opinion. I'll run through how it's done and try answer your questions as best as possible. What you need: 1. glass plate 2. Micron paper in various grits. 20 and 12 will do. 3. Tetrabor 800 grit/ mesh 4. Ultrasonic or cleaning machine 5. rodico First thing first, you have to flatten your ratchet wheel. To do this I use some lapping paper on glass. I start on a 20 micron and rub the ratchet wheel with my finger in a figure 8 pattern or circular or however I feel. (we arent trying to achieve black polishing flatness) If you are worried you can set up a jig to hold the ratchet wheel. but I often find using your finger will suffice. Once happy, move onto a 12 or 9 micron and do the same. At this point it is imperative to clean the wheel so that you remove all the grit from the paper that may be stuck between the teeth. So chuck it in an ultrasonic or your cleaning machine. Next place some tetrabor onto your plate, no need to add oil or water. place wheel onto plate and start rubbing it in. Generally it doesn't take to long no longer than a min or so. Doesn't hurt to check the piece to see how the finish is developing. if you want to check you can dab it with rodico, very carefully to remove the tetrabor. Do NOT wipe with a tissue or anything, this finish scratches so easy its crazy!! you can always chuck it through the ultrasonic (carefully) to see how the pattern is going. Its the checking and chasing that one last scratch which takes up the most time. The slightest bit of dust or dirt on the glass plate will scratch the wheel. You can always blue the wheel after, it comes out with an interesting tone when blued with this finish. This technique is fairly hard and does take some time to get good at, because it's just so easy to scratch and because of this scratches stand out against the matte surface. I'll try answer questions as best as possible. I try and post interesting stuff on Instagram regularly at least 3 to 4 times a week. obr_horology is my account on insta. its just time consuming to post (slow at typing) I plan on doing a youtube video in the coming weeks to better explain it. I learnt this from Henrick Korpela. Check him out if you haven't heard of him. He also writes in the AWCI and gives away a lot of info. Thanks O
  10. 6 points
    Blue steel can't be cut with a jeweler's saw but can be filed. That used to be how they checked the repivoting exam for clocks back in the day- saw bites, fail, file doesn't bite, fail. The commercially available blue steel bars watch and clockmakers typically use is very hit or miss. The nomial size is often way off (not such a big problem), and the heat treatment can vary between too soft, uneven, or sometimes actually ok. I have some and use it for pins and such. For staffs, stems, pinions- anything from steel- I use oil hardening steel in its annealed state. The standard in Switzerland is Sandvik 20AP, probably not so easy to find in small quantities elsewhere. In the U.S. O1 would be the closest thing (and is a fine steel for watch parts). Parts get hardened and tempered after machining, with generally the last 0.01mm or removed in finishing for bearing surfaces. For a staff I cut everything right to size except the pivots which are a good 0.10mm oversized, and I leave the taper for the roller table straight and oversized. After heat treatment, holding on the now straight roller diameter the top pivot is brought to 0.01mm over final size, the surfaces polished, rivet formed. Flip around and do lower pivot, roller taper, polish. Finally finish pivots in jacot. Heat treatment is a little different than most books or schools teach. I use an iron tube welded to a long thin bar. These are actually CO2 or N2O cartridges from selzer or whipped cream bottles with the neck cut off (about the size of the first two digits of an index finger). This gets filled about 1/3 with fine wood charcoal powder, parts go in, filled the rest of the way. The whole thing is torch heated until glowing orange, then the contents dumped in oil. The parts fished out with a magnet, and they are a nice grey color and very clean. After cleaning off the oil they are blued in a pan of fine brass filings over an alcohol lamp. With the above method there is rarely any deformation of even long thin parts, and no pitting.
  11. 6 points

    Watch of Today

    Picked up this Sandoz Alarm watch, a bit big for my wrist, but it has a certain retro charm
  12. 6 points

    My First Omega Service

    I was really pleased with this service and it's the first time I've worked on an Omega. It was a 1030 movement from the 70s with a broken mainspring. It looked like it hadn't been serviced in decades. Terrible reading as you can see. It was really nice to work with compared to the scrap I'm usually trying to rescue! I cleaned it, oiled it, replaced the mainspring and regulated it and just look at the difference! And it's within 10 seconds in all positions. Just made me happy so thought I'd share :)
  13. 5 points

    Going barrel end shake

    It's easiest to see the shake if you hold the arbor ends between the inside of some tweezers. In the pic above the cap does look like it's a bit concave, which might be killing the endshake. If you find it has none, you can press down on the barrel perimeter, with the barrel assembled, like you were going to pop the cap off- but hold the edges so it just flexes up. This can bend it up slightly creating shake.
  14. 5 points


    A couple of tricks from industry guys, not Brand approved but proven at the bench: Uhu Patafix, the yellow one, is a decent Rodico substitute that doesn't leave visible residue. The white one doesn't work. You can't touch it with your fingers, only cots or the pegwood trick from above. The other one is contact cement. When dealing with black polished steel parts, in a new watch, they have to be impeccably clean. The trick is to dip toothpicks in the contact cement, so just a little bulb is at the tip, and set aside to dry. When casing up, any small marks or bits of stuff that won't blow off can be picked up with the tacky cement (it stays tacky a long time). It won't leave a residue on the steel. The fellow who told me this one used the cheapest contact cement he could find, it was some offbrand stuff. I tried Continental tire glue for bicycles (the one for gluing on racing tires, not patching inner tubes) and it worked fine.
  15. 5 points

    Watch of Today

    Cyma Watersport with a R420 bumper GF case. Guessing from the 50s or 60s?? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  16. 5 points

    Watch of Today

    1905 Illinois grade 184 14k solid gold case Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  17. 5 points

    Homemade Tools

    I'm really into machining and making my own tools (generally I spend more time doing that then the actual hobby itself...), so I thought I'd start a topic about DIY tools for watch repair. My first success has been making a watch winder on the 3D printer. Winders are one of the more expensive and difficult to find tools for me, so it really made sense to start here. Here's the watch winder, it consists of three parts (from left to right): the pluger, spring barrel, and winding arbor. The only non-printed part is to drill a small hole in the arbor and put a piece of steel through it to catch the mainspring. It's certainly more fiddly than I imagine a proper tool would be and will not last as long. But it gets the job done and you can make it any size you want! You can find the CAD files on thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3540660
  18. 5 points

    Pallet Stone Wear

    It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong. The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice.
  19. 4 points

    Lubrication Resources

    Since lubrication technics and material seems to be a frequent returning subject I thought one could collect some links and pdf files on the subject in ONE Place so it is easy to find them. Here comes my contribution in this link Collection. Moebius ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Home (list of lubricants) http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils New (Just a lubrication chart) http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/themes/moebius/extras/pdf/tableEN.pdf Old (Moebius sales program, more detailed information) Moebius Sales program.pdf British Horological Intitute (BHI) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf American Watchmakers - Clockmakers Institute (AWCI, Nice and detailed pictures.) --------------------------------------------------- Train Jewel Lubrication https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/applying-oil-to-train-jewels/ Cap Jewel https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/cap-jewel-preparation/ Pallet Fork https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/lubrication/
  20. 4 points
    The old iron disease has got me in a death grip. I just can't go past a nice old machine and leave well enough alone. Anyway, great fun and lots of new projects added to the list to spruce these up. I was out of the house at 5:30 last weekend on a mission, got a Levin lathe, Hauser pivot polisher and a baby Jones Shipman cylindrical grinder. Some need a bit of work and cleaning, but most of the major bits are there. Snagged a nice 10mm Levin, don't really need another lathe, but this thing was so nicely accessorized I couldn't pass it up. Two Variable speed Levin drives, spindle and accessories, coolant, collect closer, tons of collets, 4 jaw, 3 jaw, faceplate, steady, milling attachment, turret tailstock, 2nd op double crosslide and the pièce de résistance, the drilling tailstock. This has its own drive and fine adjustment in two planes so you can perfectly centre it to the lathe's spindle. Its also got the threading attachment but no gears. The power pack is mess, as is the motor. Insulation in and out of the motor has crumbled, something shorted. I think I will scrap it and use a new 3Pp motor and vfd, but bury the vfd in the OEM control and use all the OEM controls so it look correct. Next is a Hauser pivot burnisher. You put a clock or watch wheel and shaft (takes 8mm collets), it spins it in collet at one end and jacot at the other and floods with with oil while you bring down a spinning carbide wheel to burnish the pivot (bearing journal). There's a very precise depth stop on the carbide wheel so you can control diameter. With an inverter and motor connected as delta this should be easy to get running King of the cool is the grinder. This is a Jones Shipman 520, a table top cylindrical grinder. Beautifully made piece, cross feed is graduated in tenths. It came with internal and external quils and holders, both centres and the workhead as well as an adapter so it'll take 8mm collets. It has flood and both the regular and internal attachments. The external is mounted and internal is on the bench will the quill is on the wood box. There's a busted oil cup I have to make parts for and figure the drive There is a huge overhead drive for this shown in my driveway, I can barely lift it. The drive is upside down, not shown are the uprights the drive mounts on so it sort of hovers over the machine. The idea is the motor is separated from the grinder and you can spin both the spindle and work. Not sure what I'll do here, store the drive and hook up something modern - fractional ho 3p with vfd and small countershaft (grinding spindle and work get drive in opposite directions) Last photo is it sitting on top of my horizontal mill to show how small it is - a cylindrical grinder you can pick up and carry!
  21. 4 points
    Hi I should say Nucejoe is right there, screw in first then the plate also in the second pic the silver lever I think should be in the groouve in the castle wheel so as when the stem is pulled out the castle wheel slides to engage and disengage.
  22. 4 points

    Oil Pallet Arbor Jewels

    No, the recommendation is not to lubricated pallet pivots period. If you have time you can observe yourself what's the difference in amplitude between having dry or oiled pallet pivots.
  23. 4 points

    Current collection

    I have a few more but these are the “keepers” that are in regular rotation Might make a separate projects post but the blue dialed one with no brand name is one I made from parts from eBay after getting inspired to do so by mark’s project.
  24. 4 points

    Lorsa 238G Service

    A well made mov’t that wasn't running. No surprise, as both balance pivots were snapped, there is no shock-protection on this version. I'd classify this mov’t not the best for an absolute beginner, it's 11.5’’' size is fine but there are three flat wire springs not very friendly, many small screws all of different sizes, so to require a full set of screwdrivers. It is interesting to observe how many construction details that have evolved from this old design for reasons of optimization, cost and part count reduction. Let’s get started. To release the stem undo completely the setting lever screw,, then either pull it out, or be careful as it likely will drop as you turn the mov’t over. Dial screws are on the sides and best handled with a 0.70mm driver. Especially if you’re using an ultrasonic cleaner it’s a good practice to remove them to reduce the risk of dropping during work. Remove the dial washer and hour wheel, since the date ring spring holds on the other side of calendar plate I suggest that for caution you place the mov’t in a plastic bag after removing the three screws, and before lifting the plate. You can put away the bag for now to remove the date ring, wheel, and finger, as well as the cannon pinion and the setting lever screw. Now lift the setting spring to reveal the joke and its spring, be cautious when removing the latter. Remove the joke, setting wheel and pinion, clutch wheel, sliding pinion, setting lever, as well the balance cap jewel, and we're done with this side of the mov’t. Strangely, the escape wheel cap jewel was missing. In reality the picture above has the setting lever still in place since I had not removed its screw yet. Now for the other side. Since I had removed the balance cock already, it’s now time to let down the mainspring with the usual pegwood braking technique. We can now remove pallet cock screw, pallet cock, pallet fork, escape wheel cap jewel, And crown wheel (left-handed). Also remove the crown wheel spacer pictured below. Remove the winding wheel screw and wheel, then be careful in removing the click spring, time to use the bag again perhaps. Finally remove the click screw and click. Having taken apart the complete winding system we can now remove the two train bridge screws and the bridge. Train is of the classic type, three wheels plus the escape one, which can now be removed. And finally two more screws for the barrel bridge, the bridge and the barrel. About the barrel and mainspring (sorry, not pictured) I opened the lid and found everything clean and in order. Since I was not to replace the mainspring I took no further action on moved to general cleaning. I did a couple washes in petroleum ether (refined naphtha) and isopropyl alcohol but some opacity remained on the plates, so I left these in ammonia-based cleaner for few hours, then rinsed in petroleum ether. Note that the latter (unlike lighter or engine fuel) contains no oils, fragrance or other additives, and leaves no residue at all. Much better, barrel and bridge already in place! About reassembly, I will not detail all the steps, but only highlights some important aspects. For lubrication I’ve only used three modern, fully synthetic products by Moebius: HP1300 for high-torque parts like winding and setting. 9010 fine oil for other pivots and jewels, it’s easy to apply from the outer side of the hole jewel. 9415 for pallet stones, only because I’ve just received it. Below from left to right, escape wheel cap screw, lower balance cap screw, balance upper cap screws, All have different sizes, so unless you photographed or otherwise set these apart you’ll have to use some logic to refit correctly. Same goes for all the other screws… they may look the same.. but they are not! Below the balance upper cap jewel. It also holds in place the regulator arm, for this purpose it’s slightly beveled. You will have to fit the setting lever on the dial side, and its screw from the other. Just use some rodico to keep the lever in place. The setting pinion goes with the bevel toward the sliding pinion. Barrel and crown wheel screws have different head dia. length and thread direction. You may want to use the plastic bag to fit the click spring safely. Fit the click first, then the long leg of the spring under it, then the bent leg to sit firmly. The joke and setting lever springs are also a bit tricky. All these pivots and sliding points are lubricated with HP1300, don't forget to test the working repeatedly before moving forward. I've found the date ring spring to be the most difficult, because it’s underneath the calendar plate as shown in the disassembly picture. After the spring is in the plate either fit it with a siding manoeuvre to place the spring against the date finger, or position the plate with the screws kept loose, then push the spring in place by the cut that is on the plate for the purpose. There is no date quick setting on this basic mov’t, that is done setting time back and forth across midnight. The finger on the date wheel is pivoting when moving backwards with the help of a really small spring. However doing that much setting counter-clockwise every other month does not damage the escapement, as sometimes is feared. The replacement balance complete came in the “a vis” version, which are there for poising, not rate adjusting. Actually I think the stubs are pressed not screwed. One last detail for the correct installation of the dial washer. Flat side faces and slides on the hour wheel, you can use HP1300 there. The edges somehow grab on the bottom of the dial. This veteran Swiss could have rewarded me a bit more on the instrument, but I hold no grudge and won’t try stunts as fixing beat error at the hairspring collet, adjusting for positions, or getting the missing cap jewel. And that is why I won’t, it would not make much sense for a desk clock! Now, who should own something like that? My friendly blacksmith, of course! I hope you have enjoyed my “no pretenses” article!
  25. 4 points
    Got another Waltham Vangaurd movement coming. When will the madness end. Gold settings and diamond end stones sooo hard to resist. Have a few nice cases looking for movements... Still need to find a side wider for my hunter case though....Ron
  26. 4 points

    Laser Printed Decal

    I've been working on this for a while. My wife's due to give birth any day now and this is what I'm going to give her after the baby is born. This is my first attempt at restoring a dial. HSL was kind enough to send me a spare one to practice on. Which I did, and it ended up being the final one I used. What was also interesting, I attempted Mark's laser printed logo method.Which worked surprisingly well. The edges of the print aren't quite as sharp as the original. But you would have to have a very expert eye to tell the difference. I think with a very high DPI laser printer you could get this more or less perfect.
  27. 4 points

    No adjustment left on beat corrector

    0.5ms beat error is a perfectly acceptable value and will not influence accuracy. If you don't believe that, regulate to the best positions average, wear the watch few days and let us know. Unless you are interested in learning how the hairspring collett is adjusted, which is a pretty delicate task, I would not recommend you try that on a balance cock with movable stud arm.
  28. 4 points

    BSA C15

    It is a public holiday in Western Australia today (WA day), and today was a big day. The BSA in my avatar for the first time in about 5 years I took it for a ride today. When I purchased it, it cosmetically looks pretty good, but mechanically was not so good. I started a ground up restoration on it 5 years ago, but the project stalled a couple of years back due to me not having enough time and some of the engine work I did not feel confident to do. A few months ago my dad mentioned he was looking for a project to give him something to do so I gave him my BSA with the deal I would keep it licensed and pay for any parts needed that I hadn't already purchased and he could finish the restoration and keep the bike to ride until he was bored of it. He got it running a few days ago, so I dropped by today and took it for a ride. I have been looking forward to having that ride for the last 5 years. The bike still needs a little more tweaking before its 100% complete, now my dad is on the hunt for another vintage bike. Shame I had to sell my WM20 project bike a couple of years back. Anyhow, this is how it looks now, not hugely different from before, but mechanically much sounder. I'm sure it will give my dad another few months of fun before he gets bored of it and hands it back.
  29. 4 points

    ETA 251.262 Walkthrough

    Even though the garden is screaming for attention one has some spare time to continue my magical journey through the heap of quartz movements. This time it is the ETA 251.262 Chronograph which can be found in watches like Breitling Colt Steel, Certina DS FIRST, Longines Hydro Conquest and so on.. I'm quite surprised of the amount of quartz movements which are getting a new life after a good clean and service. As usual all the files are in a PDF format, and all pictures are original. ETA_251_262_Dissasemble.pdf ETA_251_262_Assemble.pdf
  30. 4 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    You have been pronouncing it wrong all these years.
  31. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    Omega Speedmaster 1964, my favourite watch !
  32. 4 points

    Why does this barrel say do not open

    Still working and keeping good time.
  33. 4 points

    Luminox Tritium Replacement.

    I purchased this Luminox off ebay for parts and repair for $30. The movement got wet. I purchased the replacement ETA 251471 for $39. That was the easy part. The tritium tubes were also burnt out. You can buy the tubes for about 8 bucks each off Amazon. You can also send it back to Luminox to have them replaced for an ungodly amount. I purchased this chinese tritium tube watch for $45. The tubes are exactky the same size. Perfect fit. The tubes are held in with a recess in the dial ring so theres no glue. It was super easy to replace them. Ill have about $100 bucks in it. Not bad for a fixer upper. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  34. 4 points

    First project

    I just completed my first project - (nearly, as described below) full service of this Elgin Sportsman. I polished the crystal and cleaned a whole bunch of gunk out. It's mostly complete - I have a new main spring for it that justbarribed with the strap (I was waiting to pay shipping once). I've given it to my wife and she chose the strap herself. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
  35. 4 points
    More low cost fun. Just a little over three and a half quid each. My guess is, possible franken-dial, probably original and probably original. I spent more on two coffees and a couple of sticky buns in the supermarket cafe yesterday.
  36. 4 points
    If you’re handy you might be able to replicate this handy tool. Rolex make a “casing up” movement holder. It has a pin to engage the stem release and a bump to grab a notch in the movement so it locks in. You never need to flip the movement or case upside down. Horia make them too: https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Stem-pusher/Tool-for-removing-stem-for-cal-ETA-2824-2.html
  37. 4 points
    Horological lubrication is quite a fascinating subject. Unlike some things in watch repair that haven’t really changed in the last hundred years horological lubrication seems to always be changing. As this particular discussion demonstrates lubrication of the pallet fork pivots sometimes they do sometimes they don’t. Then the choice of lubrication’s typical responses look at the tech sheet. But the various watch companies typically all have differing recommendations and those recommendations almost always have changed with time. Then there is the missing information such as surface treatment and other stuff. Or the assumption whoever’s reading a technical guide is a professional watchmaker that knows what they’re doing. Of course we all have our personal choices and thoughts on the subject which very likely could all be different. The original title of this discussion was lubrication of the pivots the pallet fork that generally is an easy subject in that it’s usually frowned upon at least by the Swiss. Oiling of the rest of the escapement can get quite interesting. This is where time is an interesting thing or when the technical sheets came into existence. For an example of this I pulled out a couple of older Swiss technical guides and the earlier one is recommending 9020 for the pallet stones. A couple years later they switch to 941. Then I don’t remember how many years before 9415 comes into existence but it will show up eventually. Then when it does its typically for the higher frequency watches as it stays in place better. But with time even on lower frequency of 18,000 BPH watches you’ll see either or recommendation. Currently everyone seems to going just to 9415. So did you think this was confusing at all? Did you wonder what I meant by missing information other than surface treatment? Omega’s an interesting company over the years they’ve had technical information separate from their normal technical guides. Working instruction number 40 is quite interesting for instance it’s on lubrication and I’ve attached the PDF to this message. I think you'll find starting on page 13 quite interesting.. CousinsUK.com Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication.pdf
  38. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    Seiko chrono.
  39. 4 points

    Dipping my toe in the cock waters?

    Oh and you might want to reconsider your title..... we could end up with fetish weirdos finding your post through dodgy search engines
  40. 4 points

    Watch of Today

    I think I spent rather too much time getting this to work again. I still haven't dug up a suitable crown, but it is running, all of the corrosion is gone, and the crystal is not too shabby. I popped it on a period correct band. So what was so interesting about this little Timex you may ask? Well it turns out it is just as ancient as I am, since it was produced in 1964. It had pretty much everything wrong with it. Covered in interesting (and no doubt mildly toxic) blue and green corrosion. It had no crown (but the remains of a stem), wouldn't wind, wouldn't run, couldn't move the hands You name it.. However in between a few household chores including having to nip out and purchase and replace a Venetian blind who's plastic supporting beam decided to shatter in to a million pieces bringing the whole mess crashing down on to the window ledge (and destroying a glass vase of flowers in the process), this afternoon, I tore it down, cleaned it, replaced a few bits and eventually got it running nicely. I've included a picture of the new blind, just so you can admire my handy work. It still needs a little bit of cosmetic work, (though that hair at 8 o'clock is now gone I assure you), but given that its age, I think we can forgive that, unlike the original window blind, which was only produced in 2015. Somehow I doubt if the new blind will last any where near as long as the watch.
  41. 4 points

    Barrel ID Measuring tool

    It's time to get back to working on my Fusee clock and finish the new barrel for it. Although I could manage without making this tool I decided it was worth making to ensure I get the endshake correct. I wanted to measure the distance between the bushes inside the clock barrel and obviously you cant use a vernier for that. That's where this tool comes in. Its a pretty simple tool. The threaded rod is a 6BA steel threaded rod I had lying around and I turned up 2 brass ends. The one on the left is only threaded for about 10mm and the rod is screwed and Loctited into it. The one on the right is threaded for the first 10mm and then just clearance drilled the rest of the way. I did this as my taps are not long enough to tap the whole length. The shoulders of the brass ends are 7.5mm diameter with the narrow parts 5.5mm diameter. The idea is this can be used on any barrel that the pivots are larger than 7.5mm. Before I get onto how to use it I will quickly show how I tap small threads like this. The picture below shows my lathe fitted with a drill chuck in the tail stock and held in the drill chuck is a steel rod that I drilled and reamed to give it a smooth bore. I then turned up the tap holder with the shank to the size its a nice smooth fit into the bore. The end of the tap holder is drilled to be a good fit on the tap shank size, knurled to give you some grip and then a grub screw hole is cross drilled and tapped and a grub screw fitted, so when you slide in the tap the grub screw is tightened up on one of the flats of the square on the end of the tap. The drill chuck and reamed tube hold the tap in line for tapping and as you screw the tap in by hand it slides in the tube so no stress is put onto the new threads being cut. You can obviously also use this in a drill press. A closer shot of two tap holders and the sleeve, they are each made for different size taps Measuring tool in use. The shoulder of the left side is sat against the shoulder of the bush inside the barrel and the other brass end is gently wound out until it is touching the shoulder of the other bush, then the 6BA nut is done up against it to stop it slipping, you then remove it from the barrel and use your verniers to measure the gap between the shoulders on the measuring tool. I can now ensure that my new barrel will have the same amount of endshake as the old barrel, yes I could of worked it out without making this tool, but its always fun making new tools.
  42. 4 points

    Hebdomas Bridge Repair

    So I needed to remove a broken screw from the bridge, the one that locks in the Hairspring stud. I first tried drilling it out with small bits from China and this resulted in a peek in the hole. Then I got a great idea and took a bit that broke and filed it down to a wedge,like a screwdriver bit. This got rid in the peek and allowed me to use another bit with cutting oil. And it worked. Used a lathe for this with a collet holding tail stock. Here are are the pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  43. 4 points

    Watch running fast

    if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
  44. 4 points

    Runs only when crown pressed

    It is a case of strip and inspection.
  45. 4 points
    Here's a fresh upload on Thingiverse for 3D printing. A simplemovement holder for Miyota 8215, Clones and other variants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3501843
  46. 4 points
    Found the spring on my computer desk the other side of the room [emoji2359]... Ordered the parts from cousins, just in case I need them. Thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  47. 3 points

    Balance assembly

    I do all of the above except I mount the cock on a flattened piece of Rodico and stick it down well. Good Luck, RMD
  48. 3 points

    Something to lighten the day.

    A very small Catholic parish agreed with the priest that the trim around their mostly stone church was in bad need of a new coat of paint. Lacking much in the way of funds, they advertised for bids, emphasizing the need for economy. One local house painter of questionable reputation looked the job over and thought to himself, "I can make a quick buck here if I play my cards correctly". He submitted a very low bid and sure enough, the parish secretary phoned him a few days later to let him know that he had been awarded the job. The painter's plan was simple enough. He had just enough old paint left over from previous jobs and would not only mix them together, but also thin them severely so that he could cover the trim with new paint for only the cost of his labor. Accordingly, he arrived on the job site with his paint, rollers and brushes and began painting furiously. He needed to get the paint applied, collect his money and depart before a looming black rain cloud dumped rain on his fresh paint. That would wash all of his thinned paint from the trim and create a very expensive problem for him. He was applying paint to the last 50 ft or so of trim when the skies opened and it poured down in buckets for close to 1/2 hour without letup. The painter had taken refuge inside the church and upon exiting and looking up at his now thoroughly ruined paint, he thought to himself, now what am I to do? Right on cue a deep, resonant voice spoke to him from the departing storm clouds above. "My son, repaint and thin no more".
  49. 3 points

    Spring - Time to get outdoors

    Just back from a little staycation here in Ireland... weather was beautiful for a change. As people say here, it'd be a great little country if you could put a roof over it!
  50. 3 points

    1968 Timex Marlin

    one of these?
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