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Worked like a dream Rodabod!!!! Thanks a million!! Now is going to be a great Sunday evening.... Thanks again,,,,

Do you have the centre-seconds friction spring set correctly? It should cause enough friction to drop the overall amplitude by around 5-20 degrees. With it set too loose, you will see slack in the meshing between the 3rd wheel and CS pinion.

Oh I forgot the wrist shot. Scratches at 8 and 11 o'clock are now gone. Where did all of that dust come from, it wasn't there two seconds before I took the shot.

Sounds to me like the movement and dial will come out the front. Is the crystal set in a retaining bezel that can be removed?

A bit of research I found this service (see below). However the 601,s I have found have screw on backs NOT snap on backs. It might need a bit of persuasion!!!! http://watchguy.co.uk/service-omega-seamaster-600-135-011-calibre-601/

Well the replacement fourth wheel finally arrived so I was able to compare it against the fourth wheel that was in the movement. Now I know the wheel I purchased is correct for the 1045 movement because it was still in it's original package (Omega Part #1045-1243) but to the naked eye (well, with the help of a loupe) both wheels looked exactly alike. This caused me a bit of concern since I was pretty darn sure the fourth wheel was the problem area. Counting gear teeth under the microscope the old wheel came in at 83 teeth and the new wheel at 84! Now we're getting somewhere! So I swapped out the wheels, reassembled the movement and let it run for a day- it's now just a minute fast per day and I should be able to regulate that out. Looking at the wheel to pinion tooth ratio I came up with the following- which obviously isn't correct so maybe someone can check my math! The movement beats at 28,800 bph. That's 8 beats per second. The escape wheel has 20 teeth on the wheel and 7 on the pinion. The correct fourth wheel has 84 teeth. If I figure there are 480 beats per minute (8 x 60 = 480), then divide that by the twenty teeth of the escape wheel (480/20 = 24), multiply the quotient by the number of teeth on the escape wheel pinion (24 x 7 = 168), and lastly divide that by the number of teeth on the fourth wheel (168/84 = 2) I end up with two revolutions of the fourth wheel for every 480 beats; clearly this isn't correct. The correct answer should be one revolution of the fourth wheel for every 480 beats. Somewhere I goofed up. If I run the same calculation using the old fourth wheel (83 teeth) I end up with 2.024096 revolutions per minute- which is clearly faster. At any rate the problem has been solved and the watch is finished. Thanks again for the input everyone.

I'm very grateful for all your advice. Thank you.

Love these watches! I picked up another Gen 1 last week too which has the better 7A28 movement.

Welcome from Perth Australia Mark.

You need to pull it out by having something on both sides of the button, so you have an even pull. If you do not you, increase the risk of bending the pipe on the button or bending and breaking the stem.

It's probably a paperclip-ring bezel so first thing you should check is if you have a 1 part or 2 parts assembly. By 2 parts I mean Bezel + Insert ... but should be a 1 part. If it's a 1 part you just have to push a 1 razor blade under it, taking care not to scratch the case, then push a 2nd one opposite to the 1st one. Then you should be able to put a thin screwdriver under the bezel and make lever ... the bezel should pop off. If it's a 2 parts just remove the insert, taking care not to bend it, then you will see the paperclip-ring that maintain the bezel on the case. Just grip the spring with tweezers and pull it off. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

I use leverage rather than pulling. vin

Looks totally two piece to me. Pull hard.

I would say its a two piece stem. You need to get behind the button and give it a good pull with a pair of watchmakers nippers.

I use a small staking block. The key is gently, gently & hold your breath.

you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750. also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers. as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.

Got the new movement today and the good news was, it is a direct swap, just had to swap the datewheels as the new movement had a white datewheel and the Seiko Gen 2 has a black one. Simple enough to do. Swapped the 7T27 battery plate over with the original Seiko markings too All back together and working great!

I had an incident with the platax on a vintage Rolex it was tight & I must admit I did give more force than usual. When I tried to fit the new balance to was too loose. It may have been the new balance was wrong but I suspect the hole had stretched. Ironically a few months later in my BHI mag the subject of removing vintage Rolex balances was covered. It was stated the balances on the vintage Rolex were made of hard metal and the guy annealed them first before removing some of the rivet. Anyway, since then I now always remove some of the rivet.

SOME GOOD NEWS !!! today I will receive the Seiko diver case First thing I'll do is to check if : - the date window doesn't comme across the rehaut and is not too much right positionned - the movement inner ring can be shaved enough to fit the quartz movement that came with the dial If everything is OK I'll make the dial plate blank again, shave it to the right diameter (should be about 26mm) and build my new pistacchio green dial. I'll open a new thread for that build but I'll put a link here.

Ultrasonic power isn’t ever mentioned in threads about cleaning, but it’s really important. At work we have an ultrasonic tank that will dissolve an aluminium cake cup in under a minute. It’s used for cleaning hydraulic machine parts that get pretty grimed. I’d not want to put watch parts in it for a second! So it’s horses for courses. If you use a 35watt x 40khz ultrasonic bath and keep the times sensible then you will be ok with watch parts, but don’t expect it to clean carburettor bits. As I say, it’s horses for courses. Ultrasonic cleaning machines have been used by watch repairers for years. Just be mindful of choosing one not too powerful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have often wondered about laying one of my stereo speakers on its back , placing a large dish over the woofer,putting the cleaning solution and parts in a plastic jar and listening to Jethro Tull.