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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/09/19 in all areas

  1. As you can see, there not like normal tweezers these have no tips. I suppose it makes it easier to hold the pivot when trying to straighten the thing. I have never used such a tool. If a pivot is going to snap, it doesn’t matter how much you spend, it will break off. https://ssl824.fusionbot.com/b/ss_cache?cch=9858767&ck=41308233737&sn=157906848&k=Dumont*+8+tweezer*
    2 points
  2. That’s nice work. I had to use a wax chuck. Super glue was about for gluing your fingers together. Or putting it on public toilet seats.
    1 point
  3. this should be the part - you can find me here - https://www.ebay.com/usr/pack43
    1 point
  4. I have made a bit more progress with this clock in the last week. I have started to make the barrel. During the week I cut a section of the tube off, machined the ends square but left it about 6mm over length to finish to size when I do the top cap, then cut a recess for the bottom end cap to sit in and today I made the bottom end cap. I am using 1.5mm brass sheet to make the end caps and decided to try something I haven't done before, that is use a superglue chuck. I got the idea from watching Clickspring's videos when he made the barrel for his clock. Here is the superglue chuck prepared, the rings on it are to allow air in to help the glue dry. The brass sheet was marked out, center punched and cut out roughly. The chuck was then covered in superglue and with the help of the live center in the center punch mark the brass sheet was glued to the chuck. Here it is partially turned to size. To turn it to the correct size once I got it close I did several size checks, taking off 0.1mm between each check until it was a good fit. Here it is turned to the correct diameter. I then drilled it out to 12mm ready for when I fit it with it's bush. To remove it off the superglue chuck I just heated it with my MAPP gas blow torch for 10 or 15 seconds and it fell off. Test fit of the bottom cap. Notice how the barrel walls are sitting slightly higher then the end cap, 0.2mm to be exact. This is because I decided to go old school and rivet the end cap on. Following Donald de Carle's advice I filed the end of the cap unevenly for riveting so the brass from the barrel tube will lock in against it during riveting to stop it being able to turn. Here it is half way through the rivetting. Now finished, its not perfect, but it won't come apart and it was a good learning experience. Top cap next which will be another learning experience as I have never had to make a snap in top cap before either.
    1 point
  5. I have half a dozen vintage military watches. All were my late father's and most were issued to him during WW2. All are unrestored original condition as issued. One of these is a Cyma WWW which he wore almost everyday for 45 years and while working as a carpenter/builder. As you can imagine the front of the case is well scratched. I would not dream of having this cosmetically restored because I know its history. In its present condition, not even the most knowledgeable collector could question its originality but the minute you alter that somebody will say '' that is restored, not original''. How that affects its value I don't know, don't care, its not for sale. My thoughts are if you want something that looks new then buy a replica, there are plenty to choose from. One of my pet dislikes though is to see deep gouges on screw down case backs where they have been hacked with sharp objects rather than the proper tool. Once they are there though, they are there to stay.
    1 point
  6. This might help you. In this video it explains how an American clock strikes including the actions of that the levers do. There are other strike works first.
    1 point
  7. me personally i dont refinish vintage dials, esp those that served as military watches or purpose watches, like pre-moon speedmaster for example, some spend $2000+ to get theirs refinished from omega and i think thats a sin. Same as rolex, how many 1675 Gmts have sold for 5 figures with faded bezels no one would dare replace them even if it was NOS. I collect vintage war watches, ww1, ww2, vietnam. when i buy i want them too look like they survived a war. I have a friend who collects them as well and he refinished them with all original parts and sells them for $700 plus, they look like they are brand new. Some people like that i dont, it takes away from the watches history and it loses its character and uniqueness. I have ww1 waltham that belonged to a Captain who was a doctor in the 331st machine gune battalion. His name, rank, and unit is engraved on the back, its beat up and doesnt run, i dont care i left it the way it is, and i still paid $480 for it at an auction. however cleaning a dial i feel is a nice middle ground, clean it up wipe the dirt off, cool. but then again it is preference, ask yourself are you a collector or an admirer. If you are a collector leave it as is, if you are an admirer refinish it.
    1 point
  8. Looks like you asked a question nobody wants to touch!It's your watch ,would be my answer .
    1 point
  9. you have to hold the reset button because when the button is depressed and held, the hammer is pinned up against the chrono wheel hearts thus holding the reset at exact zero while placing chrono hand on. if you dont do this your reset will most likely not reset to zero. also never did a reset on a 7750 but i have done it multiple times on seikos. I know seiko 6138-6139 for example has a faceted (D shape) chrono wheel pinion, so if you place the second hand down and its wrong, you will have to remove the hand and broach the hole or again, it will never reset to exact zero, and you only get 1 or 2 tries before you cant broach anymore and then your looking at a new second hand. I have a specific movement holder made for reseting seiko chronos, and i they are available for the 7750. also those pullers you pictured are for curved dial you need the 30637-2, or bergeon does have and hand remover specifically for chronographs (5060) and its only a few dollars more than the 306 series pullers. as far as turning movement over to remove crown you can get a movement holder specifically made for that movement, or get the bergeon 4040 however esllinger has one pretty much exactly the same for half the price. when you reverse the dial place a little ball of rodico on each point of the movement holder that will make contact with the dial. Or you make your own out of a block of wood, you can even have someone 3d print one for you. I make my own movement holders esp for my chronos so i can reset them, i takes measurements and build them in a 3d program then 3d print them.
    1 point
  10. Got the new movement today and the good news was, it is a direct swap, just had to swap the datewheels as the new movement had a white datewheel and the Seiko Gen 2 has a black one. Simple enough to do. Swapped the 7T27 battery plate over with the original Seiko markings too All back together and working great!
    1 point
  11. The key to removing balance staff is not to damage / bend the balance arm. The platax tool used correctly supports the arm and the correct tool to be used with a staking tool also supports the balance arm. However for this reason I always now remove as much of the rivet as I can before pushing out the old balance to avoid any possible damage to the arm.
    1 point
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