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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    What's the tooth count of the barrel and center pinion? I'm suspecting a depthing problem due to worn center plate and bridge holes.
  2. 1 point
    itsmehoray

    stem removal

    got it thanks guys
  3. 1 point
    At some point , you are going to have to get a time grapher.
  4. 1 point
    AndyHull

    How to make brushed steel

    I don't know, all that polishing is good for building up your biceps.
  5. 1 point
    Marc

    Thoughts from a beginners bench

    Hi HSD, good moniker.... You have a success under your belt which means that you're on your way. Screwdrivers, looking at what I use most I reckon you would benefit from either a 100 or a 120 (both if you can run to it), a 200, and a 300. As for sharpening them search eBay for "watchmakers screwdriver sharpener" for an inexpensive jig to help keep things true, and a fine grit oil stone of some description, failing that you can always use 600 grit wet or dry paper on a piece of glass. For tweezers you might want to look out for a couple of Dumont No.5 or equivalent for hair spring work. Don't stint on quality here though. For oils you would get a marked improvement with something a little lighter for your train wheel and balance pivots, Moebius 9010 or equivalent would be the obvious choice, this can also be used for pallet stones although not ideal. Also if you are likely to encounter automatics then a breaking grease for the main spring is an essential. Wars have been fought over the fine details of lubrication but I would be surprised if anyone would shoot me down over the above as at least a starting point. From there you can add almost as many refinements as you wish (and can afford). M/S winders are a good idea if you can stretch to them, otherwise perfecting the art of hand installing springs can get you by, and an inexpensive crystal press will address most of your crystal needs. But the big one (in my opinion) is regulation, and the ability to see what differences you have made. To that end having a TimeGrapher or suitable computer programme that can reliably show you amplitude, beat error, and rate, and give you a timing plot is a must for your wish list. This will allow you to see the difference between using Moebius 8000 and 9010 on the balance pivots, what happens when you over oil the pallet stones (or forget to altogether), whether or not the watch is in beat, etc. The list goes on. I'm sure others will add to the above since everybody has their own ideas. But most of all just keep practising. The more you do it the better you will get.
  6. 1 point
    AndyHull

    How to make brushed steel

    The coarseness of the abrasive affects the texture of the finish. If you use a finer grit, say 400, 600 or 800, you will end up with progressively softer, more satin effect, 100 grit will give you a more textured, but a harsher feel. If you progress from coarse to fine, remember to clean the part between each grit, so as to avoid a mix of grits, and inconsistent results. You can also use 000 steel wool to soften the effect of harsher grit. The trick is to take care to accurately and carefully mask off any areas that you don't want to become "brushed". If you need to restore parts to a mirror finish, then it is sometimes easier to do those first, then mask them off and "brush" the other parts. For the best results, you need to keep your parts moving in a very straight line across the abrasive. Each pass has to be exactly parallel to the previous one, otherwise you end up with a sort of wavy inconsistency. Several soft passes tend to produce a better effect than a couple of passes pressing heavily on the abrasive. Practice on an old spoon or some other piece of scrap stainless until you get the effect you are looking for. With care, you can produce some very interesting textures and patterns with simple abrasives, and careful masking of the part. I find that electrical tape is more robust than painters masking tape for this. You can cut very straight fine strips of your tape by taping it first to baking parchment, then cutting it with a rotary cutter or a scalpel and a steel ruler, then peeling the thin strips from the parchment and applying them to the work piece. Another trick is to glue strips of abrasive paper on to wooden coffee stirrers or other flat strips of wood. Use them as you would a small file.
  7. 1 point
    rodabod

    HELP!!! Screwed up my 2892-A2

    Obvious and simple things to check when the rate varies like this (plus it’s a newer movement so seems less likely to have an eccentric wheel): - magnetism - sticky hairspring coil, or coil fouling part of the movement.
  8. 1 point
    Gryf

    Watch of Today

    Nice looking Casio! Interestingly, I have the same model in gold. It was one of a batch that my brother gave me, and appears to have been used lightly, if at all. It’s absolutely pristine. Gryf
  9. 1 point
    JohnR725

    HELP!!! Screwed up my 2892-A2

    Definitely an interesting waveform! Can you change from the current to the B graph? In the B graph mode will display 192 seconds which will make it easier to look for patterns if there are any. Then I'm a big fan of timing in different positions to see if the problem occurs in all the other positions?
  10. 1 point
    Davey57

    Smiths mantle clock project

    Well it’s finished. I just put the movement back in today after cleaning and waxing the case. It is running fine so far, fingers crossed, chiming loudly and looks lovely. I don’t want to give it back!
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